Explorer Cruise Control.

[EFI Guy]

I know I promised you guys a video, but I think a picture is worth a thousand words. And Bax says my videos are too boring.

I made this diagram as simple as possible. I left the Coast button out because it would require another switch and I think it's pointless. I also added the recall jumper harness part number, the kit includes the updated pressure switch. Just trying to make it as safe as possible, burning Broncos are bad. Still, use this info at your own risk!

The resistance value for Coast is 120 ohms between pins 5 and 6 should you want to add it.

 

[904Bronco]

Now I wish I had kept all that stuff... :-[

Thanks Garry!

 

[wepuckett]

what model explorer is this off of? I got a 92 sitting int he back yard I am about to get rid off and was thinking maybe I could steal serpentine and other parts off it before I do.

 

[DirtDonk]

Not sure about the cruise stuff wepuckett, but the serpentine on your '92 won't do you any good. Yours is a V6, correct? You'd need the '96 ('97?) and later with a 5.0 to use the serp setup.
The 3.8 or whatever it is probably does not work. Although I would wait for someone else to confirm that. I know there were similarities between the engine families, but I'm not sure the front bolt holes and such would line up.

Good luck though. Be nice to have all the right stuff right there in your possession already!

Paul

 

[sanndmann3]

Paul is correct on the serp info. 96-01 Explorers with the 5.0L are the ones to look for.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Is there a good way to fake the brake pressure switch? I remember the recall on them because they would set vehicles on fire. The temporary fix was to unplug them. That left you without cruise control. So I am pretty sure you can't just ignore it. Is it just a redundant brake apply cancel switch or is it really needed to function?

I've retrofitted an older 80's vacuum system and it didn't have brake pressure, but it did have a vacuum switch on the brake pedal that dumped the vacuum with a brake apply as a redundant cruise cancel system.

 

[904Bronco]

Is there a good way to fake the brake pressure switch? I remember the recall on them because they would set vehicles on fire. The temporary fix was to unplug them. That left you without cruise control. So I am pretty sure you can't just ignore it. Is it just a redundant brake apply cancel switch or is it really needed to function?

I've retrofitted an older 80's vacuum system and it didn't have brake pressure, but it did have a vacuum switch on the brake pedal that dumped the vacuum with a brake apply as a redundant cruise cancel system.

I would say that this could be an option... This is the retrofit kit from Ford that I installed on my 2002 Superduty for the recall.

Of course it depends if you have a port on your MC to install it in...

 

[EFI Guy]

Is there a good way to fake the brake pressure switch? I remember the recall on them because they would set vehicles on fire. The temporary fix was to unplug them. That left you without cruise control. So I am pretty sure you can't just ignore it. Is it just a redundant brake apply cancel switch or is it really needed to function?

I've retrofitted an older 80's vacuum system and it didn't have brake pressure, but it did have a vacuum switch on the brake pedal that dumped the vacuum with a brake apply as a redundant cruise cancel system.

I'm sure you could bypass it, but if your brake light fuse ever blew, cruise would stay activated when you hit the brakes. It's just a secondary method to deactivate cruise. Your 80's vacuum retrofit trick might work as well.

You are correct on the recall and potential for fire, that's why I listed the part number for the updated switch and jumper harness.

 

[wsager]

Thanks EFI Guy! Was hoping you would post this.

 

[dmoses42]

So I have a 2001 Explorer that I'm going to use for the complete 5.0 and 4R70W conversion. I also went to the salvage yard and got a complete engine/firewall/transmission harness from a 2000 Explorer to work on the harness before I dismantle the complete Explorer in the driveway. Been watching the videos and taking notes. I got the trans harness unwrapped, looked at what pins I needed to remove from it, and realized neither harness I have has a VSS. Should I just pick some random unused wires in the trans harness and firewall harness, label them for what they are going to be for, and go from there, or can someone offer up a better alternative?

 

[904Bronco]

So I have a 2001 Explorer that I'm going to use for the complete 5.0 and 4R70W conversion. I also went to the salvage yard and got a complete engine/firewall/transmission harness from a 2000 Explorer to work on the harness before I dismantle the complete Explorer in the driveway. Been watching the videos and taking notes. I got the trans harness unwrapped, looked at what pins I needed to remove from it, and realized neither harness I have has a VSS. Should I just pick some random unused wires in the trans harness and firewall harness, label them for what they are going to be for, and go from there, or can someone offer up a better alternative?

Explorer Tranny harness for the 4R70W has an OSS, but no VSS. I believe Garry takes some unused wire and repins them so you can incorporate a VSS. Typically the wire is Grey with a black stripe. Same through the other harnesses so it exits in the cab... As I have used Rostra aftermarket CC units.

 

[rsensiba]

I know this is an old post but can someone help explain how to incorporate the info on the OHMS. Do I use a regular 12v switch and then put a resistor on the wire to get the OHMS correct? I have never done anything like this before. Thanks

 

[bigperm2]

This schematic is great!
I am doing some preplanning for my explorer 5.0 swap, and I am clear on it all except one thing, and that is the VSS. I assume the part shown is a mustang type VSS that bolts on inline with the speedometer cable. From my research, these have a output of around 8800 PPM. The 108 tooth tone ring on the ring gear on the explorer 8.8 would have over 75000 PPM, which I assume the cruise module would expect to see.

Has anyone made this work? If so what did you do for VSS? Am I missing something? Is there a different part number for the speedometer cable VSS that has more PPM than the mustang VSS?
can the OSS be used for cruise instead of a VSS?

 

[EFI Guy]

In later Explorers, the VSS in the rear diff sends the signal to the ABS controller. The ABS controller then converts that signal to the standard 8k PPM and sends it to the PCM, cruise control, and the speedometer.

 

[chuck1022]

In later Explorers, the VSS in the rear diff sends the signal to the ABS controller. The ABS controller then converts that signal to the standard 8k PPM and sends it to the PCM, cruise control, and the speedometer.

I'm gonna agree with EFI Guy..

VSS
ABS
8k
PPM
PCM

 

[Broncobowsher]

I know this is an old post but can someone help explain how to incorporate the info on the OHMS. Do I use a regular 12v switch and then put a resistor on the wire to get the OHMS correct? I have never done anything like this before. Thanks

Correct. Just get a resistor of the correct value and splice it in the wire. The OHMS is a restriction, the number is the value of that restriction.
If you think of it as a carburator jet, it is a calibrated restriction to flow. Since it is electricity, the numbers are backwards of size (like wire gauge).
Watch out for letters added to Ohm ratings, those are multipliers. K=1000, M=1,000,000 That messes up a lot of people not paying attention to the numbers. 100 OHM is far from 100K Ohm (100,000 Ohms). The bigger the number, the smaller the hole for eletricity to flow.