explorer swap questions

[904Bronco]

The Ford part number for a steel oil pan for a 2000 explorer is F87Z-6675-GA
The pick up tube is F77Z-6622-CA

I bought them in 2007, and the last time I checked both were obsoleted by Ford, but maybe the numbers will help your search. This is the only picture I have of it and it is not the best... Good luck.

 

[Broncobowsher]

ok. maybe this bronco one would be better, single sump. oil pan.

Not really. That is for the later full size trucks with TTB. That one actually interferes with the front differential when compressed to the bump stops. A lot of people have ran them. I ran the 351 version. With a nice dent in the pan before I put on taller bumpstops.

 

[Big Slim]

Ok. I have the stock pan but the back is more square. I was hoping to put h pipe thru here.

 

[Big Slim]

So i dropped in the motor this weekend since i found that the head gasket was leaking on the old motor. plenty still to do though. found a few more things i need to work out.

• the throttle cable hole to the pedal is behind the upper intake with not a lot of room between. anyone have a problem not getting this to fit between?
• coolant hoses. i have the stock radiator. i looked up and seems the 02 ford diesel lower and a 69 GTO upper is suppose to work with minor trimming.
• does the throttle body have to be clocked? looks like the little actuator on the top sits high and slightly touches. seen some posts on that. i have a 2" BL. would that still be able to use stock cable?
• can the elbow on the intake be used or does it have to be removed? most post i have seen is removed but was hoping to keep the egr which is built into the elbow. could effect PCM programming if installed or not. though would simply some things without it.
• does the coil pack mount need to be modified to fit lower? i think it could work as is but wire slightly touch hood cross bar. chop an inch off and re weld it.
• with the headers the oil dipstick tube cannot mount as before, how to re-secure it elsewhere?
• the starter solenoid needs to be moved as it is super close to the alternator.
• new PS line. which is pretty straight forward. is there a off the shelf that works or would i just get a new end on the box side?
• finish the body side wire harness

 

[904Bronco]

So i dropped in the motor this weekend since i found that the head gasket was leaking on the old motor. plenty still to do though. found a few more things i need to work out.

• the throttle cable hole to the pedal is behind the upper intake with not a lot of room between. anyone have a problem not getting this to fit between?
• coolant hoses. i have the stock radiator. i looked up and seems the 02 ford diesel lower and a 69 GTO upper is suppose to work with minor trimming.
• does the throttle body have to be clocked? looks like the little actuator on the top sits high and slightly touches. seen some posts on that. i have a 2" BL. would that still be able to use stock cable?
• can the elbow on the intake be used or does it have to be removed? most post i have seen is removed but was hoping to keep the egr which is built into the elbow. could effect PCM programming if installed or not. though would simply some things without it.
• does the coil pack mount need to be modified to fit lower? i think it could work as is but wire slightly touch hood cross bar. chop an inch off and re weld it.
• with the headers the oil dipstick tube cannot mount as before, how to re-secure it elsewhere?
• the starter solenoid needs to be moved as it is super close to the alternator.
• new PS line. which is pretty straight forward. is there a off the shelf that works or would i just get a new end on the box side?
• finish the body side wire harness

The upper plenum seems really close to the Firewall, do you have the tranny attached and in place? If not, then it might move up and away once it is.
I have never been able to make the lower F250 diesel hose work in 5 conversions... I use WH's lower tube with the factory lower hose cut in two pieces. Never tried the GTO option.
Yes, you have to clock the TB so the IAC is not on top. 2" BL might work, but you will need to do some testing. I have made the factory cable work, while reclocking the TB.
Yes, you can keep the EGR elbow, but it is a pain in the A*s. Relocate the battery to the drivers side and have a long Pos cable to the Pass side of the Bronco. Then you have to have the inlet pass over the Alt.
Yes, you can program the EGR out of the programming. But that is a question to ask EFI Guy as the EPA has been following up with tuners to insure they are not removing smog items.
Yes, lower coil packs, at least an inch and have it tilt down a little more in front.
Yes, relocate the Starter relay to the front of the wheel well. You should use the Explorer one.
Don't know of a factory hose that will work? Used the Lee adapter from WH's and had a hose made at the hydraulic shop. Guys here have made most of the factory Explorer hose work. PS box end is metric. I cut that on off and replaced it with the correct size and reflared the end.
I made a bracket off the header bolt and bent the dipstick tube slightly to make it work.

 

[Big Slim]

yes, the trans is hooked up and motor mounts are in so couldn't be too far off. if anything the motor is slightly back on the passenger side from looking at the front cross member under the pulleys.
so keeping the elbow and egr is harder to do then using it? because of the intake and filter location? i would like to keep it for emissions but again its a 69 and never had it to being with and efi and a light cat should do way better with or without egr than carb ever did. my wench box is mounted on the passenger fender so even less room up there for filter.
my starter has been intermittent so i was planning on changing to the F250 MT starter to match trans with the solenoid on the starter. would i still need the other solenoid?
i guess most things can be redone if i dont like it but trying to avoid that. but then reprogramming and wiring would a pain if change mind on egr. probably lean towards removing it if indeed it is simpler to do.

 

[Big Slim]

the MAF body measures about 3.25 (83mm) and the throttle body measures 3.08 (78mm). what coupler hose has everyone used? would a 3 to 3.25 hose coupler work?

 

[904Bronco]

the MAF body measures about 3.25 (83mm) and the throttle body measures 3.08 (78mm). what coupler hose has everyone used? would a 3 to 3.25 hose coupler work?

Yes, that sounds correct...

 

[904Bronco]

yes, the trans is hooked up and motor mounts are in so couldn't be too far off. if anything the motor is slightly back on the passenger side from looking at the front cross member under the pulleys.
so keeping the elbow and egr is harder to do then using it? because of the intake and filter location? i would like to keep it for emissions but again its a 69 and never had it to being with and efi and a light cat should do way better with or without egr than carb ever did. my wench box is mounted on the passenger fender so even less room up there for filter.
my starter has been intermittent so i was planning on changing to the F250 MT starter to match trans with the solenoid on the starter. would i still need the other solenoid?
i guess most things can be redone if i dont like it but trying to avoid that. but then reprogramming and wiring would a pain if change mind on egr. probably lean towards removing it if indeed it is simpler to do.

Just about anything can be done... It just takes some thought, experience, and skills... (Or someone tells you about a short cut they did)
I have kept EGR on 5 conversions. I think the motor(s) runs better with it. I have started using the 96 Explorer harness as it is similar to the Fox body mustang harness. I am able to run Mustang EGR spacer with Explorer EGR valve (same style valve, same plug), modified explorer TB, and Mustang throttle cable. There is a lot to this and it is not as simple as it sounds. But it makes keeping the EGR easier...
Starter relay on the fender.. You will get two trains of thought here - Delete it or keep it. As it was on the Explorer for 5 years of the 5.0 run, I have kept it.
Definitely recommend the PM style starter on the conversion. 92 F-150 with 5.0 and 5-spd is what I have used.
A single CAT will clean up the exhaust a lot, I use one from a 96 Bronco with 5.0. Be sure to add some shielding to keep heat away from the floor. You don't have to be crazy with the design.
Can't offer any more on the firewall clearance, every Bronco is different. I have had ones with a tight fit and ones where there was space...

 

[Big Slim]

ok. yep. got a heat sheild i need to figure out how to install.
now im wondering if it is worth relocating the battery to the other side to give room for intake like you did. only place that might be able to get some cool air. doesnt look like anyone sells just the one support just the set of 3. unfortunatly i already removed the factory starter wiring that ran to the other side of the engine. dont want to mount everything on passenger side then decide to move it and have to redo it all again. ug. decisions. also budget friendly.

 

[904Bronco]

I made a "L" bracket that mounted to the inner fender and supports the Batt tray from the side rather than between the wheel well and Rad support.

 

[DirtDonk]

Same here on my ‘71 for the second battery. Works great.

 

[Big Slim]

i am going to relocate the battery. will be best in the end.
looking at the wire schematic of the bronco, i should use the green/red wire to trigger the efi relays. right? this is powered with coil/accy on the key to the right and not just accy when key turned left. seems better idea than using the black/green wire that is accy only. EFI guy showed to use a new red wire. but if this one is already
did anyone have to move the bulkhead wires going in the cab? mine was pressing on the intake manifold pretty hard. trying to figure out how to relocate them.
should i cut out the black/yellow wire as it goes to nothing or should i hook it up to the battery and basicly double my wire capacity? my black wire has no fused link in it.

 

[DirtDonk]

looking at the wire schematic of the bronco, i should use the green/red wire to trigger the efi relays. right?
this is powered with coil/accy on the key to the right and not just accy when key turned left.

Close. The Green w/red wire is powered in ON / RUN only. Nothing in the ACC position at all.
Which makes it the best choice for anything involving the fuel injection or engine functions. You don't need, or want any of that stuff powered up when you're just sitting there listening to the radio.

seems better idea than using the black/green wire that is accy only.

Close again.
The Black w/green ACC wire is powered with the key in BOTH positions. So it's hot in both ACC and ON.
Otherwise your radio and heater and some other useful stuff would not work while the engine is running.

EFI guy showed to use a new red wire. but if this one is already

What Red wire? One that he installs or reuses in the modified harness? If he suggests it, I can't think of any good reason to go against what he says and not use it.
The Green w/red and Red w/green factory wires (coming from the same terminal on the ignition switch by the way) are your go-to wires for most stuff that's only needed when the key is in the ON or START positions, but if there is a new dedicated wire for just what you're needing, then use that.

did anyone have to move the bulkhead wires going in the cab? mine was pressing on the intake manifold pretty hard. trying to figure out how to relocate them.

Which bulkhead wires are you speaking of? The factory wires with the two firewall connectors just above the driver's side valve cover-ish?
It's certainly doable to relocate them, but I've never heard of them hitting the intake at least that I can remember. I'm sure they're close, but which intake do you have again?
Got a pic?

should i cut out the black/yellow wire as it goes to nothing or should i hook it up to the battery and basicly double my wire capacity? my black wire has no fused link in it.

Sounds like you're talking about the old alternator charge wire? If so, I've always felt it was better to re-locate and re-purpose this wire rather than cut it off completely. So yes, put it to the starter relay next to the battery cable and other Black wire. Not sure it actually doubles capacity, since it's not running the circuit in parallel. It's just "reverse-series" so to speak. Not sure that's even a thing, but it made sense for the minute I was thinking about typing it!

 

[Big Slim]

perfect. i think i will use this wire as it seems heavy enough to use a the relay trigger.
the red wire he mentioned in his youtube video. added "Run" wire. i imagine that is easier to prebuild harness with that than use the green/red wire. or maybe to keep all the efi wires packaged together. since i am relocating the battery and pulling wire looms appart to rerout it is already there.
yes, the 2 8 position connectors are touching. pics in post #24 of the wires touching the intake. maybe possible to move them up to where the old throttle linkage was mounted.

 

[DirtDonk]

Oh yeah, that's close all right! Bound to be trouble down the road if you don't do something to relocate them now.
They were already a source of many electrical problems over the years. Might as well not give them another reason to reach out and bite! The fuse panel is just on the other side of that too.

Speaking of which, what is the general condition of the fuse panel? Clean and rust-free, or pretty corroded? Multiple reasons to ask, but the primary one is that any time you add EFI and electronic controls it's best to make sure that every connection anywhere is in the best shape possible. Which is why a lot of people ultimately replace their harness when going EFI.
Not 100% necessary, but it certainly helps in case your fuse panel and those two connectors are in any way compromised.

not sure what the best way to proceed is in this case. None of the replacement harnesses re-use anything resembling those two connectors and the old fuse box location. They all go to the '71 and later location. Except for maybe some of the brand new to the market restoration harnesses that is. Which replace those connectors with new ones of the same design.
However, unless doing a religious restoration, it's best to follow Ford's practice and get rid of that design and go with the newer style.

If keeping things, hopefully someone has some good experience and practice with changing that interface.

Good luck.

paul

 

[Big Slim]

fuse panel looks ok but i need more positions. i like the bussman 15700 as there is an option to get 2 poles for constant and ignition. not sure where i would put it though.

For these connectors, searching i found a couple that might be a good replacement.

• deutch hdp20 series
• delphi weatherpack bulkhead
• amphenol panel mate AT

 

[DirtDonk]

The weatherpack bulkhead fittings are very cool. But they are very bulky.
You would not only be changing the connection, but you would definitely be moving it somewhere else.

I don’t know how hard it would actually be to re-terminate all those wires by just making them longer and putting your fuse panel wherever you want it.
The driver side kick panel is often a convenient usable spot.

Maybe that panel you linked to would get the job done not only in addition to your existing panel, but instead of it.
That would mean extending a lot of wires however, and at that point it might just be better to replace the entire harness like so many do.

 

[Big Slim]

probably a new wire harness would be best as these old cars were not the best to begin with. but also trying to keep budget. will see what i come up with. definitely more than i was expecting to do with the engine harness. have not really touched much on the interior yet and things missing like driver air box and heater for spacing. hoping to not do this side quite yet.

 

[Big Slim]

So I got the hole for the ecu box cut and put the heater in place. A lot closer than I was thinking. How did everyone mod it to get the defrost ducts to work?

Hoping to get a bulkhead connector either below this box if room or on the angle where the choke cable was.