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explorer swap questions

Big Slim

Jr. Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2007
Messages
186
i have been working on my engine harness part of the swap and had some questions on the entire swap that have come to mind.
  1. the motor has the non cooled oil filter 90 degree extension. i ordered the oil filter adapter F1AZ.6890 to remove this and mount directly to the block but the threads are not the same size as the current oil filter. which oil filter fits this?
  2. it appears that i have the returnless fuel rail on the motor, i only see one fuel line to the rail. i have a larger aftermarket sherman tank, not sure of the age. can i use the explorer fuel pump assembly with the regulator on it and just cut a hole in the top for it?
  3. i am reworking the explorer harness and wondering how/where does everyone mount the PCM? do you use the explorer cover and box that goes thru the firewall. i tried pulling that from the junkyard and kept breaking it since it was glued on and plastic.
  4. i was thinking of using all micro relays for the harness. seems like they can handle the amperage. anyone tried this?
 

1969miller

New Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2022
Messages
9
Loc.
Elk Grove
i will also be doing this same swap so i'm sub'd to hear some of the answers. I have a few spare ECU covers, no boxes though. It would need to be cut out of the explorer or ranger firewall. I've seen folks cut a hole in the upper firewall in the center and install the ECU there with the factory cover.
 

904Bronco

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 28, 2004
Messages
5,236
Loc.
San Martin, CA
i have been working on my engine harness part of the swap and had some questions on the entire swap that have come to mind.
  1. the motor has the non cooled oil filter 90 degree extension. i ordered the oil filter adapter F1AZ.6890 to remove this and mount directly to the block but the threads are not the same size as the current oil filter. which oil filter fits this?
  2. it appears that i have the returnless fuel rail on the motor, i only see one fuel line to the rail. i have a larger aftermarket sherman tank, not sure of the age. can i use the explorer fuel pump assembly with the regulator on it and just cut a hole in the top for it?
  3. i am reworking the explorer harness and wondering how/where does everyone mount the PCM? do you use the explorer cover and box that goes thru the firewall. i tried pulling that from the junkyard and kept breaking it since it was glued on and plastic.
  4. i was thinking of using all micro relays for the harness. seems like they can handle the amperage. anyone tried this?
1. Now you will use a standard Ford v8 filter: Wix 51515 or Ford FA-1A

2. Simple answer is you could, but I would be concerned with it: sealing, being the right depth FP assembly, (Tank is too deep) (still using exsiting fuel level sender) and being able to pull fuel in from the bottom of the tank.(It will probably sit too high on a unmodifed tank.) Then there is the whole not having a box in the bottom of the tank so the fuel pick-up doesn't starve the motor as the fuel level decreases and you are driving on the trail with fuel moving around. Then there is how do you get the fuel completely out so you can cut a hole in it?

3. A select few have extended the length of the ECU wires so it can be fully inside the rig. Most use an Escape ECU mount/Windstar van mount. Explorer box is huge and as you found out, difficult to remove. Center of the fire wall is one location with the mounts suggested.

4. EFI Guy has used the smaller relays when he reused the small relay box that was on some Explorers. As long as they can accept the voltage/amps it should be ok. How and where are you planning to mount them?

Sorry my WiFi blipped and I had to come back and clean this up....
 
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Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
33,085
2) you can do a remote regulator externally.
Pump out of the tank, T-fitting, one leg to the fuel rail, other leg to the regulator. Regulator return to the tank.
 

bsquared

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2010
Messages
954
Here's my setup. The attached might help you when redoing the engine harness. I made it from EFI Guy's videos. I would HIGHLY recommend the Bussmann 15303-2 fuse / relay block. I made my first one from a standard box and did not do a good job on the jumpers. This Bussmann box has internal busses that let you power up the fuse side and also power the "key in on position" relays, which is pretty much all of them. Fuel pump grounds through the PCM. It's not very pretty, but here are the diagrams I made to rebuild my fuse / relay panel.
 

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Big Slim

Big Slim

Jr. Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2007
Messages
186
so whats the best way to get a sump and pickup inside the tank? the external pump would save some cutting of the tank but would still need the strainer and sump. thinking could modify the height of the explorer bracket. the sherman intank pump for sale was just a pump with a U-bracket on it, no sump. my tank is empty and just cleaned at the momemnt, previous owner left gas in it for years and nastied it up and still working on trans swap so no chance to fill it up.

ill keep my eye out for an escape mount. mine is missing heater parts, does this interfear with any of that? will get it eventually.

i like the sealed box. been trying to find something with the buss bar i like but no luck. that actually doesnt look too over sized. just thinking the micro relays could save some space and look a bit better. i have been following the efi guys video but since i dont have automatic it was a bit different.
 

904Bronco

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 28, 2004
Messages
5,236
Loc.
San Martin, CA
How many holes you got in the Sherman tank now? Just a sending unit and a fuel pick up?

Wondering if an EFI fuel pump adapter can be purchased and the tank retrofitted. Use an Explorer EFI pump @60psi and then do as BroncoBowsher suggests above^^^ Pressure regulator with a return line.

This is what Garry, EFI Guy, recommended to me when I did my 2001 motor swap: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-13129/overview
 
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Big Slim

Big Slim

Jr. Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2007
Messages
186
it has the one in front for the pickup, one on top for the sending unit, 2 for filler, and 2 on side for vents(?). external pump could be less work and continue using the current tank pickup.
how about this one? looks like the stock internal regulator.
regulator
 

904Bronco

Contributor
Bronco Guru
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Sep 28, 2004
Messages
5,236
Loc.
San Martin, CA
I don't know about the regulator in the link.
External pump needs a prefilter and a post.
Post is generally the one that your donar Explorer would use
Pre is generally a standard paper filter. Does the fuel pick up have a sock on it already? (Probably not)
If external, then it would need to be very close to the tank and it is not designed to pull fuel any great distance. Not really my first choice, but I have done it for Mustang EFI.
 
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Big Slim

Big Slim

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Joined
Dec 11, 2007
Messages
186
So I’m thinking in tank is probably better for those reasons. Maybe I can use the explorer pump and remove the top and hanger piece and reattach with spacer to get it to the bottom of the tank. Remove the float.
807af4df21a39c407d2d2d6d945e122f.jpg
 
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Big Slim

Big Slim

Jr. Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2007
Messages
186
so i think this fuel pump idea will work. i recieved a unit and looks like i just have to cut and extend the bracket down about 1.5 inches.

does the explorer inertia switch have to mount inside the cab or can it go under the hood?

i am going to shorties with 2:1 exhaust. i do plan on adding a cat. so if i want to use the rear O2 sensors can i hook both sensor wires together on one O2 sensor? (originally it had cat on both sides.) then i can remove a set of heater wires from the harness.

the bussman 15303-2 looks pretty great and summit is about the cheapest place to get it. probably be in another 50 bucks to get a full set of terminals and seals for it. probably good to have some weatherpack parts around. anyone use the resetable circuit breakers with it instead of fuses?
 

Jedeka

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Full Member
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Oct 5, 2014
Messages
229
How about making a square, recessed area in the top of your tank that is 1.5” down from the top of the tank? You would have to make sure your tank is clean and safe to weld on it.
 

904Bronco

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Sep 28, 2004
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5,236
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San Martin, CA
You may be able to extend the bracket, but how? Once you cut it you expose the metal to all the wonderful things in gasoline... Rust is a concern.

The switch is not designed to be in a dirty environment, I would stick to mounting it in the cab.

No you cant wire the rear O2 sensors together. If you run a Cat then the fronts will work fine on a 2:1, I have done this on two builds. A cat does clean things up a lot.
 
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Big Slim

Big Slim

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Dec 11, 2007
Messages
186
that's not a bad idea either, modify the tank instead of the modify the pump assembly. then would be a easy replacement if the pump dies. hoping not to weld on the tank. i was thinking a couple options on modify the assembly. either drill out the spot welds on the top and bracket, then adding spacer there. or cut the vertical bracket and bolt together with bar or piece of sheet metal with bends to somewhat match u channel of the bracket.

ok. ill find a place for the inertia switch inside. probably up under the parking brake pedal.

so if i want the rear o2 sensors ill need to add 2 sensors.
 
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Big Slim

Big Slim

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Joined
Dec 11, 2007
Messages
186
I got the fuel pump modified. I am getting some sealed blind rivet nuts to fasten it to the gas tank.
62f4bd2daf2f966364743a3ae459e136.jpg


Next question. Looks like the explorer motor oil pan is shaped different and comes closer to the transmission. I was thinking of running exhaust h pipe in the area where current 302 oil drain is. Is there a different oil pan or do I need to run exhaust different? using bronco hut shorty headers. hoping to get exhaust to work on old and new motor.
 
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DirtDonk

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Nov 3, 2003
Messages
42,737
I noticed that about the pan too. Kind of a bummer since I like to run the crossover between the pan and bell housing too. Interested to see where yours ends up.
Good idea about the blind riv-nuts too. Didn't even think about them. Probably didn't even know they existed!

paul
 

spap

Contributor
Bronco Guru
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Jan 2, 2010
Messages
2,234
That looks like the same oil pan from my 1990 Lincoln town car engine
it has good clearance I have a 3.5 inch lift
pain the drain the front goes all over
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
33,085
looks like this oil pan has the same profile as the stock 302 oil pan.
Not really. The stock pan is a single sump. That is a dual sump pan and holds less oil. I can't quote oil pump pickup heights. That Dorman pan is the basic fox body mustang 5.0 oil pan, I believe also used on crown vics. Oil changes are a mess, the front drain goes all over the steering.

To that, yes they do fit and work in a Bronco. Plenty of Broncos got engines out of mustangs and ran the mustang pan just fine. They do clear.
 
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