First-time start checklist UPDATE - POST 19 - IT CRANKED!! calling timing gurus!

[77RHINO]

About to finish up/fire my new 351 for the first time, wanted to make sure I have got all my bases covered and see what additional advice yall may have:

ADD OIL! just under 6 qts incl filling the filter right? using 10w-30 conventional plus half container of lucas break in additive

Stab dist at 10* BTDC (after priming for 2 mins)- Verify rotor is pointing at number 1 wire on cap. If it doesnt idle correctly, how will I know if its a carb adjustment issue or timing? Using a new Edel 1826, haven't messed with adjustments on it.

Elec choke - hook up hot wire to "stat" post on alt, ground wire to intake man bolt? standard alt, haven't upgraded that yet.

Fill radiator, squeeze lower hose to "burp" system? Heater valve goes on the line going into water pump, and comes off the core port closest to trans tunnel?

What is the best way to prime to fuel line? Mech pump, all new line from pump to filter. Pouring in a cap/2 of gas may start, but should I use starting fluid to keep it going until the fuel line primes?

Also using new-style starter, remove/trash tiny jumper wire, run smaller dia wire to normal side of solenoid, big wire to same as battery side.

Break in - let run for 20 mins? Its a roller, so I am not sure what the standard protocol is. Drive easy once that is done or is it ready to go? Change oil after about 500 miles?

Thank you for any additional tips yall may have, I wouldn't have taken this on without this board!

 

[Bronco Junkie]

I would use real oil and not trust the additive.

Also, you will want to spin the oil pump and prime the motor with oil before you break it in. I did this with a cordless drill and extension.

 

[74strokerbronco]

not sure on the eddy carbs but on a holley you can prime the carb by filling it up with fuel thru the vent tubes, being a roller no need to maintain 2000-2500 for the first 20 minutes but I would avoid long idle periods at first , fire it up and fluctuate between 1000-2000 for the first 5 minutes or so . shut down and double check things and make any adjustments to timing ect. refire and bring it up to full temp again avoid long period of idle and maintain 1000-2000 with fluctuations, when at full temp and everything seems good, do final set of timing , carb adjusts ect and get ready for a drive.let cool.(hot /cold heat cycles help to break things in and take there set) double check again and go for a drive . some rings like to see a load to properly set in , avoid the wide open throttle and high rpms tell you know all is right but you do want to put some load on it. my 2 cents

 

[Bonco4Broncos]

You have a good handle on it. Initial mixture screw setting on carb. is 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 turns out and that should idle good with only a fine tune later. Maybe use soap stone or white out to mark the timing mark on balancer and timing scale to make it easier to see. I definitely would not use starting fluid to keep it fired as that can wash the oil out of the cylinders. I have successfully used a vaccum pump like you bleed brakes with to pull fuel to the front of a dry system in the past. Likely unless you are very lucky that you will have to turn distributor a little to get her fired and to idle. then set the timing with a light. After its warmed a little and idling fairly smooth you can fine tune air mixture screws and smile being satisfied that you did a great job.

 

[xcntrk]

When you say "Stab dist at 10* BTDC", do you mean stab the dizzy at TDC then rotate to match 10* BTDC? Or are you actually installing your dizzy at 10* retard?

 

[77RHINO]

Thank you for all the replies so far! xcntrk, from what I have read in random searches, I need to slowly rotate the engine over till its on compression stroke, and stop the crank at 10* before hitting 0*/TDC. As I understand that, it means that I am advancing it 10 degrees, because searches claimed it would be difficult to actually get it firing at 0* TDC. Its a single vacuum advance dist that I will hook to the lower/full manifold vacuum port on the carb, and from what I understand, that should get it going. Does that sound right?

 

[Teal68]

As far as priming goes I like to pour fuel down the line to the pump, and fill the bowls on the carb. It's easy to take the top off an Eddy. Take the screws out and lift the top without taking all the linkage loos and pour some gas in the bowls. At least this way you can see how much you poured in.

Two people is nice when you fire up if possible. One to set timing correct and the other to keep it running. Both sets of eys to look for leaks!

 

[DJs74]

Thank you for all the replies so far! xcntrk, from what I have read in random searches, I need to slowly rotate the engine over till its on compression stroke, and stop the crank at 10* before hitting 0*/TDC. As I understand that, it means that I am advancing it 10 degrees, because searches claimed it would be difficult to actually get it firing at 0* TDC. Its a single vacuum advance dist that I will hook to the lower/full manifold vacuum port on the carb, and from what I understand, that should get it going. Does that sound right?

For initial fire, don't worry too much about hitting the exact timing degrees. You'll want to make sure that you distributor is installed at TDC (#1 piston at the top of the bore / both exhaust and intake valves closed) and rotor button directly under #1 spark plug wire on the cap. You'll be able to dial your 10° in with a timing light after your break in is complete. I advise leaving the distributor semi-loose at initial start up so you are able to move it slightly each way (but not too loose so it can move while its running). Unless you filled the intake full of coolant prior to installing your thermostat, keep coolant on hand because when the t-stat opens, you'll need to top it off as the rest of the coolant system will need to be full. what I mean is - if you only filled your radiator, when the t-stat opens, your block - intake and the entire coolant system will take what was in the radiator and you'll need to add. I always fill my block, intake and radiator with distilled water only at initial fire up just in case there are any leaks of issues, once break in is done, dump the water and add proper coolant mixture.

Keep an eye out for leaks / keep clear of moving parts like the fan & belts / keep an eye on your manifolds or headers - if they begin to glow, advance your timing slightly (move distributor clockwise) because glowing exhaust is a sign of retarded timing.

as mentioned by 74Stroker... your roller camshaft doesn't require the conventional break in associated with flat tappet camshafts but its good to fluctuate the RPMs during your initial run.

Have fun and enjoy the new power plant

DJs74

 

[Timmy390]

If your T-stat don't have one in it already, drill a small hole in it (maybe 1/16th) and install it with the hole at the top. Some aftermarket T-stats come that way already. The hole will allow air to escape during the filling process. Burp the system so to speak.

Roller cam = no conventional break-in already covered.........

Seen the distributor done both ways....at 10 and at 0. Zero seems to be the go to setting then adjust it once it's running with a timing light. Even if you set it at 10 before startup, you still need to verify it with a timing light and possibly make a small adjustment.

Tim

 

[77RHINO]

This is great info, I will double check the t-stat but it is already installed, I went with a 195 in case this motor ran hotter than the 302 did. What is a good amount of coolant/water to keep on hand? 2 jugs? Ive never filled an empty system, so I'm not sure how much it'll take.

 

[DJs74]

This is great info, I will double check the t-stat but it is already installed, I went with a 195 in case this motor ran hotter than the 302 did. What is a good amount of coolant/water to keep on hand? 2 jugs? Ive never filled an empty system, so I'm not sure how much it'll take.

If only the radiator is full now, have a few gallons on hand


DJs74

 

[77RHINO]

Sounds good! I used my lunch break to go stroll around a part store, picked up a timing light and battery charger. I live by two more (lucky me!) so I will stop and get some coolant on the way home today. I am going to try and get the oil in and the engine mostly buttoned up tonight (linkage, PCV, Booster, etc, and then hopefully tomorrow afternoon Ill be able to start it! Thanks again ;D

 

[Broncobowsher]

Oil, what pan are you using? Is it a 6-quart pan?

Break in RPM. I still like to see a couple thousand RPM for 15 minutes or so. It isn't just the cam. Those rings need to seat in the cylinder walls as well. Higher RPM still throws oil around. Flings more oil off the rod ends into the bores.

I typically break in on straight water. It cools better as the engine will tend to run hot on the break in due to the break in friction. Also any leaks are just water, much easier to deal with. Once all is good drain it back and add coolant.

 

[77RHINO]

Its the pan that came with the motor out of a 96 full-size bronco, I had read earlier on in my searches it was just under 6 quarts including a filter change. Only mod I have done to that was shorten the dip stick and tube about 4 inches, since it would have been poking through the hood

 

[DJs74]

I typically break in on straight water. It cools better as the engine will tend to run hot on the break in due to the break in friction. Also any leaks are just water, much easier to deal with. Once all is good drain it back and add coolant.

"Distilled" water (as opposed to iron infested well water) and I agree - as mentioned in my earlier post about breaking in with water only. I learned this the hard way once with a heater hose that blew off during break in - right beside the carburetor - coolant sucked into the carburetor, all over the top of the intake, down the bellhousing, white smoke billowing out of the exhaust - just like a blown head gasket would act. Nothing worse than anti-freeze all over a brand new motor and the entire engine compartment and down into the carburetor. From that experience, all future builds... only water at break in for me

If you only have the radiator full at this point, it would be easy enough to drain it out (and save it) and just add the water

Let us know how it goes

DJs74

 

[xcntrk]

Thank you for all the replies so far! xcntrk, from what I have read in random searches, I need to slowly rotate the engine over till its on compression stroke, and stop the crank at 10* before hitting 0*/TDC. As I understand that, it means that I am advancing it 10 degrees, because searches claimed it would be difficult to actually get it firing at 0* TDC. Its a single vacuum advance dist that I will hook to the lower/full manifold vacuum port on the carb, and from what I understand, that should get it going. Does that sound right?

The reason I pointed that out is that I think your timing marks on the balancer will be off if you stab the distributor with the motor at 10* btdc instead of at tdc. I believe the proper way is to stab the dizzy at tdc, then retard the timing manually (aka rotate motor back 10* - using timing marks), then rotate the dizzy until the rotor lines back up with #1 on the cap. That will manually set your timing to 10* btdc and your timing marks on the balancer will be properly oriented with TDC.

 

[77RHINO]

Ahh, I think I get what yall mean now. I am about to pick up a couple gallons of distilled water and head to the shop, I wont be cranking it tonight, just going to get everything buttoned up and then I will post back in the morning with any new questions that arise. I appreciate all of yalls input!!

 

[muskrat]

I would use real oil and not trust the additive.

Also, you will want to spin the oil pump and prime the motor with oil before you break it in. I did this with a cordless drill and extension.

Ditto on the above. I'd also go with a high quality

 

[77RHINO]

It cranked!!!!!

Got it cranked today!! ;D I need some advice on timing/idling though, The sweet spot for it to fire up is also where it begins dieseling upon shutoff. If i turn the dist. counter-clockwise, it takes alot to start, real rough, but will not diesel. If i rotate the dist to where it cranks easily, it wants to diesel pretty bad upon shutoff. Using the timing light, vac advance plugged on dist, it would say 2-3*, then I gave another tiny bump (clockwise) and it shot up to 12*. this was where it dieseled at, enough for me to hear air come out the breather when it finally quit. I found TDC, when the air pushed out the #1 spark plug hole, stabbed dizzy in at 0, made sure rotor pointed at #1 wire on cap (clocked at about 1:00 or so), and it fired up but doesnt want to turn off! Timing gurus, please give me some tips!!

 

[Steve83]

The bottom of this caption describes how to stab a distributor:



Once you know it's in right, AND the timing scale is accurate, set it either to-spec, for a fresh rebuild; OR where the manifold vacuum is highest, which automatically corrects ignition timing for all worn parts. But it doesn't correct problems, like sticking valves, timing chain slop, worn cam lobes, low oil pressure (which affects hydraulic lifters), blowby, exhaust restrictions...