FiTech EFI pre-order info

[ChrisC74]

the Edelbrock sump works the same as the fitech fuel system. it gets fed from the stock pump off the engine. I like these setups because I wanted to keep both tanks and not have a bunch of plumbing to re-work.
I ran a tee in the vent line on my spare tank filler neck to vent the sump and have had no issues. Just make sure there is a vented cap. I've read in other forums that some vent to atmosphere. I found that running the vent to the spare tank cut the garage fumes down to close to nothing.

Thx, I was wondering if you were running the stock mechanical pump. I removed mine when I went to the Howell TBI because that system called for a higher flow frame mounted pump with a return line. For this system I used the return line as the vent since it does not call for a return line with the fuel sump.

 

[m_m70]

Hey ChrisC74. what problem did you have with the hand held? I have them sending me a new one as well as the cable seems to have a short in it. Just curious%)

 

[ChrisC74]

Hey ChrisC74. what problem did you have with the hand held? I have them sending me a new one as well as the cable seems to have a short in it. Just curious%)

I am not sure if it is the handheld or the cable. I have to keep a finger pressed between the two where they connect to the handheld to keep contact. As soon as I let off the pressure it loses power. Not sure they know which part it is so they are sending both and want the old ones back. I would like to be able to watch the screen while I drive but for now I just keep the pressure on when I need to change a setting or see the screen. I am sure I can put a bolt or pencil between them and wrap in tape but I am not worried about it right now.

I hope we are not getting more from the same batch.

Mine should be here Tuesday, so I will let you know.

Also, my low pressure gauge on the small tank does not show anything but I am going to wait until I swap pumps to confirm if it is inop.

 

[m_m70]

thanks. sounds like the same issue. keeping fingers crossed the replacement works!

 

[rnrmp]

I have to run fuel lines and mount the inline fuel pump and should be ready to go

 

[ChrisC74]

I have to run fuel lines and mount the inline fuel pump and should be ready to go

Are you using a high pressure pump on the rail or a low pressure pump feeding the fuel commander sump?

 

[rnrmp]

Inline pump

 

[bteutsch]

Any updates?

 

[ChrisC74]

Any updates?

Any updates?

Work was hell this week. I finally was able to put about 10 miles on it late this afternoon. I think I am going to really like this system.

Even at initial startup it has a smooth idle. I noticed right away that I did not smell the stick of a lean running engine and the place on the ride where I dump the clutch and slow down on the hill into the neighborhood I did not get the typical backfiring that happens every other time.

I have an email in to FItech, I am running the carter 4070 frame mounted pump feeding the fuel commander.

On my old Howell system when I would turn the key one notch the fuel pump would run for about 3 seconds, charge the system and turn off until I started the car.

On this system the first key notch starts the pump and if I leave it there the pumps just keeps running. I turn the key, the pump stops while cranking then runs again on key release.

It will not over fill the fuel comander tank as it shuts off flow but I don't like that the pump keeps running when the engine is not.

I am hoping I wired something wrong or there is a way to program it to stop.

I admit I have not read the manual cover to cover yet.

Anyone else have updates???

 

[m_m70]

I noticed that it starts cold much better than the other unit I was running. Not getting the popping out the exhaust either on downshifts which is sweet. I did check the fault codes and getting a P0000 showing up. I will have to look it up or contact fitech to see what that's all about. Runs great though but haven't put that many miles on it yet. Very happy so far!

 

[drock]

If you Google the P0000 code it shows that its just a nuisance code and nothing big. Looks like everyone so far really likes this set up.

 

[m_m70]

Yea I did google it and sent an email to fitech as well asking about it. I needed to ask them about the spring pressure on the throttle linkage and if there was a way to loosen it up a bit. Hate tight pedals!
Also, it doesn't drop down to low idle after revving the motor or coming to a stop with the clutch in. Hangs at around 1100 rpms for around ten seconds then drops to 800rpms where it's set.
These are very small issues compared to what I've been dealing with my last throttle body set up so right now I couldn't be happier.

 

[ChrisC74]

Yea I did google it and sent an email to fitech as well asking about it. I needed to ask them about the spring pressure on the throttle linkage and if there was a way to loosen it up a bit. Hate tight pedals!
Also, it doesn't drop down to low idle after revving the motor or coming to a stop with the clutch in. Hangs at around 1100 rpms for around ten seconds then drops to 800rpms where it's set.
These are very small issues compared to what I've been dealing with my last throttle body set up so right now I couldn't be happier.

Please let us know what they reply on the linkage and idle adjustment.

 

[bteutsch]

I got that same fault code P0000 at least one time when I first ran mine. I cleared it and it didn't come back. I never asked them what that code meant. Then I was having ignition issues and got rpm noise code. After I changed plug wires, plugs, distributor cap and rotor, no more fault codes at all. Okay also I was having issues with the factory throttle linkage not getting full movement out of the throttle body linkage. So tonight I ditched the factory setup and installed the BC Broncos throttle cable. I now have complete movement from 0-wide open throttle. Wow what a difference. I was probably only getting about half of the throttle to move before. I was actually impressed with that. This is pretty much amazing. I don't think I've ever hit 4,000 rpm shifting through the gears.
Idling better too, when I could not get mine to idle down it was the secondary throttle plate not adjusted closed. So the idle air motor couldn't do its job. After I adjusted both front and rear throttle plates closed it will idle down pretty quick.

Only problem I had with my handheld unit so far is the little button kept falling off the little joystick. I put a small amout of superglue gel on that and it fixed that issue.

 

[ChrisC74]

I got that same fault code P0000 at least one time when I first ran mine. I cleared it and it didn't come back. I never asked them what that code meant. Then I was having ignition issues and got rpm noise code. After I changed plug wires, plugs, distributor cap and rotor, no more fault codes at all. Okay also I was having issues with the factory throttle linkage not getting full movement out of the throttle body linkage. So tonight I ditched the factory setup and installed the BC Broncos throttle cable. I now have complete movement from 0-wide open throttle. Wow what a difference. I was probably only getting about half of the throttle to move before. I was actually impressed with that. This is pretty much amazing. I don't think I've ever hit 4,000 rpm shifting through the gears.
Idling better too, when I could not get mine to idle down it was the secondary throttle plate not adjusted closed. So the idle air motor couldn't do its job. After I adjusted both front and rear throttle plates closed it will idle down pretty quick.

Only problem I had with my handheld unit so far is the little button kept falling off the little joystick. I put a small amout of superglue gel on that and it fixed that issue.

Can you please post the instructions for adjusting the throttle plates?

 

[bteutsch]

They didn't give me really a procedure, other than adjust them about 1/8th of a turn at a time. I was actually on the phone with them while I did it. I had already adjusted the primaries closed but was still getting a high idle. While on the phone with Ken I was told there is an adjustment screw in the right front for the primaries one in the left rear for the secondaries, since I had already adjusted the front, the secondaries needed to match. So he advised me to back out the screw in the left rear the idle dropped immediately. I'm sure you could visualize with the air cleaner off if they are open or closed. They were wanting me to watch what the iac was doing prior to me adjusting the idle. With the engine warm it would crank then idle up then drop to around 1000 rpm, he said watch the iac steps with the handheld to see if it dropped to 0 or near 0. It did but the idle didn't come down, that's when he told me to try adjusting the secondaries. I'm assuming with the throttle plates closed the iac allows air in to control the idle. I can idle down to around 550 rpm now, but idle gets a little rough the lower I go so I set mine for now around 650 rpm.

My secondaries may not be completely closed I just adjusted them until the idle dropped. I didn't visualize that they are completely closed.

 

[m_m70]

I will try the secondary adjustment and see what happens. It idles where I want it to it just takes a while for it to drop down. Hangs at 1100rpms for 8 to 10 seconds before settling into the base idle.
Going to play with linkage resistance as well. Seems awfully tight. I am also running the cable for throttle linkage.
Bteustch, could you post a pic how you have your cable set up and where you are connecting to the throttle body? I don't think I'm getting the full open when floored.

 

[ChrisC74]

I will try the secondary adjustment and see what happens. It idles where I want it to it just takes a while for it to drop down. Hangs at 1100rpms for 8 to 10 seconds before settling into the base idle.
Going to play with linkage resistance as well. Seems awfully tight. I am also running the cable for throttle linkage.
Bteustch, could you post a pic how you have your cable set up and where you are connecting to the throttle body? I don't think I'm getting the full open when floored.

I am running a lokar cable and am happy with it. It took a little adjusting to get it to fully open. I think there is a kit you can get to be able to install a ball on the larger opening / higher opening on the throttle body which should give it a softer pedal.

 

[bckmn1]

Interested in mass buy if they can give us a deal

 

[bteutsch]