FiTech EFI pre-order info

[.94 OR]

So if I want to continue using my factory dual tanks, can I use their inline high pressure pump setup and bypass my mechanical pump and just draw fuel after the tank splitter valve? Or do I need to go with the accumulator tank?

I only need the 400hp unit.

 

[Knuck]

The only problem I see with that is that inline pumps are best if mounted as close to the tank as possible. I have a 76 with factory dual tanks. I have actually been toying with using the factory mechanical fuel pump to supply fuel to the fuel command center. Makes things SUPER easy and I get to keep all the factory fuel gauge and tank switching that way. Mech. fuel pumps are cheap and fairly easy to replace should the need arise.

 

[DirtDonk]

Yeah, the dual tanks would be one of those borderline calls for anyone wondering whether they should go with the Command Center or not.
As Knuck said, electric pumps (especially high-pressure ones probably) are best mounted in or near the tank to be used to "push" fuel to the engine. They're not always happy as pullers.

The different methods used here on members Broncos seem to be:
1. A pump in each tank.
2. An inline pump near each tank (not very often, but I seem to remember someone doing this.
3. A transfer pump to pull from the AUX tank into the MAIN. (most common here?)
4. A single inline pump mounted after the factory tank selector switch.
5. A single inline pump mounted further aft with the use of an electric switching valve.
6. A reservoir setup like the Command Center.
7. Just work with single tank.

All have their adherents, and all have their drawbacks in either cost, hassle-factor, or performance.
The side benefit of the electric switching valve is that you no longer get the gas smell in the cabin when the original one starts leaking.

Paul

 

[work765]

I was actually wondering about all this. Glad you posted this Paul.
I have a 76 with a single tank without a pump.
What's the best option for my scenario? I assumed the fuel center was the easiest option. Kind of plug and play. But then after talking to someone and reading this thread. You can install pumps and a return line? Is one a better option? I would like to eliminate the smell of gas as much as possible

 

[DirtDonk]

Your '76 should be one of the more "fume free" Broncos out there. Was some or all of the original smog stuff removed? Or could you have a leak somewhere?

Nothing wrong with any of the above scenarios really. Kind of comes down to personal preference. The only two reasons I can think of where you would not want to use something like the Command Center (or one of the similar products from another manufacturer) are cost and real-estate.
Not a lot of room under some Bronco hoods. I suppose along with room, you could add aesthetics. I kind of like the high-tech look of these things, but some won't want all that non-stock stuff so visible.
But functionally, it should work excellent unless you already have an overheating problem and live at high altitude or in the desert. But when it comes right down to it, we haven't really played with these things long enough yet to find if there are any weaknesses or not. They could be perfect in every circumstance. Or not...

It is almost plug-n-play, which is it's selling point. Keeps you from having to plumb a return line, which is intimidating to some. Kind of like wiring. The less you have to do, the better.
And you just re-route your existing fuel pumps output to the new unit, then it's output to the new throttle body. It's still plumbing. Just a little less than a full return line.
I like wiring, and like return lines (even on carburetors), which is why I lean more to an in-tank pump with separate return line.

But because your truck only has one tank to begin with, installing a full return line setup is less work anyway.
So again, kind of up to you.

Are you for sure going to keep your stock tank? Or would this be a good time to upgrade to a larger one? If a new one is in the cards, then getting one with an internal pump and existing return port makes the job just that much simpler.

Kind of makes it near a toss-up, with perhaps some favorable weight to the separate pump and return line. But up to you.
First though, I'd find out where the fuel smell is coming from. Does it happen only after a fill up, or all the time? After driving it a while, or after it's been sitting? Overnight in the garage?

Could be venting issues, could be fuel coming from the carburetor vents and intake if you have an open element air cleaner. Could be a leak in a fuel line that's just not leaking bad enough to leave a puddle (yet). Could be a rusting tank or leaking seal around the sending unit.

Lots of potential things other than what an EFI setup can fix.

Paul

 

[tony-runner]

Swampbog, I read most of this thread and it was very informative. Mine is running with an MSD AL6 box controlling the timing and a MSD 3 wire distributor, so I have it wired up like their installation instructions dictate. However, Ray1970 clearly states he's running a 3 wire ready to run dizzy converted to a 2 wire and locked out. Anyone got an idea on how to wire this? Their installation instructions say this can't be done and he's saying he talked to tech and it can be done. Delete the ground from the 3 wire and hook it up as a conventional 2 wire dizzy?

From the previous posts it seems like the FI Tech unit does a better job of controlling the timing and I'd like to see how the FI Tech unit runs with it controlling the timing. Anyone know the procedures for locking out a 3 wire dizzy, helping it work with the FI Tech unit and how to wire it up? Phase it in?!

I really don't want to change out a perfectly good dizzy and am curious how the 3 wire is changed to a 2 wire.

Help is appreciated 'cause I think my unit could be running a LOT better than it is. (but it is running)

Cheers, B2

Did you get any more information about hooking up the 3-wire distributor? Is this a case were you just simply ground the 3rd wire and connect the other two per the FiTech instructions?

 

[.94 OR]

It appears the in-line frame pump would require a return line to the tank(s). The fuel controller would not require this and would likely be more compatible with a stock mechanical low pressure pump to supply from 2 tanks.

The frame style pump needs to be at a low point compared to the tank so with the rear tank hanging lower than the frame, this might cause drafting issues in the future even if a return line is installed.

An option is a large rear tank with a high pressure internal pump but that would likely be costlier than the accumulator for me anyway. Still looks like a nice setup over a troublesome carb.

 

[swampbog]

It appears the in-line frame pump would require a return line to the tank(s). The fuel controller would not require this and would likely be more compatible with a stock mechanical low pressure pump to supply from 2 tanks.

The frame style pump needs to be at a low point compared to the tank so with the rear tank hanging lower than the frame, this might cause drafting issues in the future even if a return line is installed.

An option is a large rear tank with a high pressure internal pump but that would likely be costlier than the accumulator for me anyway. Still looks like a nice setup over a troublesome carb.

Not really
I just did this to my tank
http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=84/category_id=61/mode=prod/prd84.htm

 

[tony-runner]

ok... in regards to the FiTech EFI ignition control working with a Duraspark system:
I talked to FiTech on Thursday. According to the person I talked to, which seemed pretty knowledgeable, at this point they don't know if the ignition control works with a Duraspark ignition or distributor. He basically says that anything is possible, but they have not yet tested it. They obviously have done a lot of testing with MSD distributors and boxes. He recommended looking at Top Street Performance (TSP) distributors. Theirs are compatible with MSD at a lesser cost. He said that MSD's phasable rotor is compatible with TSP distributor, which makes the phasing adjustment a lot easier. Looking at TSP's website it seems that the JM6606 should be a good option for a 351C. No vacuum advance, but you don't need it when controlling the timing via the EFI unit. I guess you would use this distributor with MSD's Street Fire box. They also have a ready-to-run option but at a higher price. Have any of you heard or used TSP distributors?

 

[bteutsch]

Do you remember who you talked to at FITECH about the Duraspark distributor? I'm curious about this also, I'm 100% sure I asked before I chose Duraspark and was given the okay it will work. I was also steered toward a 2 wire distributor that they were more familiar with. I was trying to research this a little more to see how to wire it up. I found this for an MSD adapter.

From what I understand, Duraspark is a 2 wire system. I was thinking this adapter may could be used to hook up to the two wire plug on the FITECH harness.

 

[bteutsch]

Found it

Brian,

You can run a duraspark distributor with the Go EFI systems. To use it with timing control you will need to find a way to lockout that distributor.

Bryce Cegielski
FiTech Fuel Injection
12370 Doherty St. Suite A
Riverside, CA 92503

Phone – 951-340-2624
bryce@FiTechEFI.com

From: Brian J Teutsch [mailto:bteutsch@hotmail.com]
Sent: Friday, September 11, 2015 2:10 PM
To: Bryce C. <bryce@fitechefi.com>
Subject: Re: Setting idle lower

Hey Bryce,

I'm still mulling over distributor setups. How does your system work with ford duraspark ignition? I feel pretty sure it would work without your spark control, would your spark control with that setup?
I know I'm a pest, lol
Thanks,

Brian
Sent from my iPhone

 

[tony-runner]

Maybe it was that same guy but i cant remember the name. Sorry i have always been bad with name memory.
Now, he just said that they have not tested it so he cant say for sure. I am sure there is a way to make it work. I think the adapter you are showing may work. The 3rd wire it just ground so you can do it without adapter as well. What we need to figure out is if the signal from the Duraspark is compatible to trigger the EFI. It will be nice if you could connect it for a test. If it helps, when you look at the MSD 6A module instructions, it shows that tou can connect a Duraspark distributor in that way just like a 2 wire. So at least if it works with the MSD module it means that there is some compatibility. However, we will know only after someone can test throughout a wide RPM range to make sure it is compatible.
That said I would speculate that the Duraspark module wont be part of the equation.
The other reason they like the MSD or TSP distributor is because it is easy to deactivate the mechanical advance and easy to phase the rotor with MSD's phasable rotor add on.

 

[bteutsch]

Yea I've been researching how to lock out the Duraspark, I saw somewhere that at one time Holley sold a kit that locks out the advance, other than that saw where people tack welded the mechanism, or drilled it and put a screw through it. Mine runs fine the way it is, just been thinking about doing it because it's there and it may run even better.. I kept the small diameter cap.. Do they make a phase-able rotor for a small cap?

 

[TDubya]

If anyone is needing one of their #30001 or #30002 600hp kits, we have a few in stock right now.
Not on the website just yet, but our part numbers are #6630 and #6632 respectively.

Sorry for the not-too-shy sales pitch, but if you have to wait a couple of months this might be an alternative. Maybe that's just for the 400hp kits?
And I wanted to let members here know that we were a distributor for them now too anyway, so this was as good an opportunity as any.

Paul

Do you guys plan on selling the 400hp kits and FCCs when they become available? That is the direction I'm going, don't need ignition control and want to keep my stock dual tank setup. I'd rather buy from a Bronco vendor if I have the choice.

 

[tony-runner]

Yea I've been researching how to lock out the Duraspark, I saw somewhere that at one time Holley sold a kit that locks out the advance, other than that saw where people tack welded the mechanism, or drilled it and put a screw through it. Mine runs fine the way it is, just been thinking about doing it because it's there and it may run even better.. I kept the small diameter cap.. Do they make a phase-able rotor for a small cap?

I dont know about the phasable rotor fitting. I guess if you had vacuum advance you can use that mechanism and lock it to phase the rotor plus you may have to modify the slot on the rotor. To lock the mechanical i think you will have to either weld or screw the weights in place. Either mod will make the distributor unusable if you ever decide to go back. I would use a junkyard distributor.

 

[tony-runner]

On my end since i dont have Duraspark yet i think i will go the TSP distributor and MSD box way.

 

[DirtDonk]

Do you guys plan on selling the 400hp kits and FCCs when they become available?...

Thanks. I don't know yet, but I "assume" so. No reason not to at this point, as it seems more and more are interested in it.
The original discussions simply revolved around the 600, so that was our focus. But no reason to rule out the 400 that I can see.

Didn't hurt of course, that the 600's were more available too!

I'll check Monday and see if I can get a definitive answer for you, sooner rather than later.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

Yes, turns out we already have the 400's on order. That was the third part number I saw last week, but thought it was another version of the Command Center.
So they're in the pipeline.

Any reason (other than the obvious cost savings) that you don't want the computer to control the timing too?
On the fence at all?

Thanks

Paul

 

[mritchy1]

Well got my fitech put on today. Went pretty smooth, but it seams a little loud almost like a vacuum leak. Is this normal? maybe I am just used to my carb noise .

 

[rnrmp]

iac valve will sound like a vacuum, try to get it down in the 5-10 range