Fitech RPM Noise Code

[mduenas]

I have had a fitech installed for 2 years on my truck. 2 weeks ago I was driving and it shut off without warning. The handheld showed. RPM Noise for a code. I checked everything in the truck, every wire, re-ran my tach wire to try and reduce noise from other electrical components. Cleared the code, truck ran for 5 min, then shut off and will not start again. After 2 weeks of trying everything I could do, I can not get the truck to turn over, it just cranks. I called ASC Bronco in Venice California, and they have about 4 trucks (from my understanding) at their shop with the same code. Fitech is telling them it is user install error, even though the shop went through everything Fitech said to do to fix the error. Fitech now says only way to fix is buy a new unit. They offered to to allow the shop to send all units to them, analyze and send back, but no replacement.

This can’t be true. So their shelf life is 2 years? Anyone have insight? I would love to not have wasted so much money on the unit to have to replace with a carburetor again. I constantly drive from sea level to a mile above a couple times a week. A carb I feel would need much more adjustment, and frankly, I can’t imagine wasting so much money. I havnt had a paycheck since March, and can’t
Fathom spending money again to get it going.

Has anyone experienced this, or have a remedy? Seeing as Fitech refuses to stand behind their products.

 

[75MIKE]

Google "Fitech RPM Noise Code" and you will have enough reading to last for a month.

 

[bronkenn]

Try wrapping your distributor cap with tin foil and see if it helps. Could be getting interference from the distributor.

 

[Hazegray]

What ignition system are you using?

 

[mduenas]

Google "Fitech RPM Noise Code" and you will have enough reading to last for a month.

I did, and have read what I felt like was every page on the internet. I even wrapped my tach wire in foil. I was just hoping there was some useful insight here. I’ll dive back in.

Last resort is wrapping tach wire in this. Just ordered.

 

[mduenas]

Try wrapping your distributor cap with tin foil and see if it helps. Could be getting interference from the distributor.

I’ll give that a shot, I wrapped my tach wire, didn’t help.

 

[mduenas]

What ignition system are you using?

Basic MSD FOR A 302

 

[75MIKE]

This was on the V8 Buick forum:

Installing a digital ignition box (Pertronix 510 HP) seems to have fixed my noise issue!
I talked to pertronix and their box is compatible with my existing ignition module and coil - so I figured what the heck - why not try it? The ignition box has a dedicated tach wire with a nice square wave signal generator.
I spliced it in quick and dirty to test it and the car fired right up and ran quite nicely. No dreaded RPM noise code. I don't know why I didn't think of this sooner. Duh.

I need to wire it up properly and mount it, but (fingers crossed) - this seems to have solved my issue. Long story short - a digitally generated tach signal is probably a good idea for any EFI system.

 

[73azbronco]

MSD is the same so that should work as well. Does it?

 

[Hazegray]

There seems to be a commonality of issues with FITECH and MSD based ignition systems

 

[KyleQ]

I've run my FiTech and MSD 6A for years without an issue, never got a RPM code.

I run my distributor 2 wire wiring under the air gap intake. My 6A is over on the pass side cowl, coil is sitting right next up by the alt bracket.

Cracked distributor cover?
Good grounds? (Engine to battery, body to battery, frame to battery, carb stud directly to battery) These are important.

 

[mduenas]

Ok,

I’m waiting for digital ignition box, apparently it is hand built and takes 3 weeks... I called Fitech again and they told me it’s because of the coil I had... I had a perteronix flamethrower 2 they said their system only works with msd blaster 2. After 2 .5 years of using pertronix I found that odd.. purchased the new coil, same issue. Except I no longer even get a code. I get 0 rpm reading. I will get a reading if I tap the tach wire to the positive terminal on my battery. It is a new battery so I know it isn’t low voltage. I also had a pertronix flamethrower dizzy laying around, so I swapped that out and now that’s in the truck. Same symptoms. Running great for 2.5 years and now this. If the digital box doesn’t fix it. I’m replacing with a carb and throwing this away unfortunately. Feels like such a waste of money

 

[mduenas]

Digital ignition came early. Hooked it up. Symptoms are no better. Back to square one. Will be removing and trashing tomorrow. Fitech has been no help unfortunately .

 

[gr8scott]

This was on the V8 Buick forum:

Installing a digital ignition box (Pertronix 510 HP) seems to have fixed my noise issue!
I talked to pertronix and their box is compatible with my existing ignition module

This statement makes no sense. The Pertronix 510 HP IS the ignition module. It doesn't work in conjunction with whatever module
you're using, it replaces it altogether. I just installed one (mine came early too). The programmable start timing retard works perfectly.
It's loaded with features in such a small package. The other multi-spark guys need to step up their game.

https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/pnx-510.pdf

 

[Jfryjfry]

I had an issue with fitech that was similar if not the same.
It was a used unit that I only had maybe 15 minutes of idling and 10 minutes of driving on when it just died. I could get it to start but it ran like it was completely loaded up and would die within 10 seconds.

I did a factory reset on it and it started back up fine. I then ran the tach wire (the only ignition wire I’m using with the fitech. I have a pertronix ignition in the distributor) through a brake line from the coil to the back of the throttle body and it has been running fine now for a few months.

 

[mduenas]

This statement makes no sense. The Pertronix 510 HP IS the ignition module. It doesn't work in conjunction with whatever module
you're using, it replaces it altogether. I just installed one (mine came early too). The programmable start timing retard works perfectly.
It's loaded with features in such a small package. The other multi-spark guys need to step up their game.

https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/pnx-510.pdf

I installed yesterday and it isn’t helping at all. I was hoping to take advantage of the start timing retard too :/

 

[mduenas]

I had an issue with fitech that was similar if not the same.
It was a used unit that I only had maybe 15 minutes of idling and 10 minutes of driving on when it just died. I could get it to start but it ran like it was completely loaded up and would die within 10 seconds.

I did a factory reset on it and it started back up fine. I then ran the tach wire (the only ignition wire I’m using with the fitech. I have a pertronix ignition in the distributor) through a brake line from the coil to the back of the throttle body and it has been running fine now for a few months.

Maybe I’m confused, your tach wire is also your ignition wire? I have a ignition wire (when key is turned) going to the Fitech harness, then my tach wire to the coil. I did put the tach wire into a braided line and grounded it. Didn’t help. I thought I did a factory reset. I’ll try again.

 

[Jfryjfry]

Sorry, I was wrong in how I described it. The wire I shielded (and grounded the shield) was the wire that comes from the coil to the fitech unit.

 

[snipes243]

Do your spark plug wires have RFI or emi suppression built into them?

https://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/10/09/how-to-choose-spark-plug-wires-for-your-vehicle/

 

[gr8scott]

then my tach wire to the coil.

Hey mduenas, do you still have the Pertronix HP 510 installed? If so, connect the tach wire to the grey wire coming off the box.