Heat torture cooling system test... Exploder mech vrs Tauras electric fans...

[kman67]

Nice write up Brian.
I've got a rigid fan on my mustang serpentine setup:
https://bcbroncos.com/shop/cooling/...17-fixed-pitch-ccw-rotation-for-early-bronco/
It is not doing the job, so I put a big electric pusher that keeps it cool on long uphill climbs. Last week on the Rubicon, my fuse melted. :-[
Anyways, thinking of something better, can I put an Explorer fan on my mustang serp setup? I also want to redo my shroud and make it tighter, I have this one:
https://tomsoffroad.com/parts/66-77-ford-bronco-v8-steel-body-lift-radiator-fan-shroud

 

[bigmuddy]

Nice write up Brian.
I've got a rigid fan on my mustang serpentine setup:
https://bcbroncos.com/shop/cooling/...17-fixed-pitch-ccw-rotation-for-early-bronco/
It is not doing the job, so I put a big electric pusher that keeps it cool on long uphill climbs. Last week on the Rubicon, my fuse melted. :-[
Anyways, thinking of something better, can I put an Explorer fan on my mustang serp setup? I also want to redo my shroud and make it tighter, I have this one:
https://tomsoffroad.com/parts/66-77-ford-bronco-v8-steel-body-lift-radiator-fan-shroud

You will need to change everything from your timing cover forward with the explorer serp parts. check out the tech section for a nice writeup from Marschariot.

 

[kman67]

Thanks bigmuddy, there is a lot if info on the Explorer Serp setup:
https://classicbroncos.com/tech/explorer-5-0-serpentine-accessory-drive-belt-conversion
I'm not sure I want to make the leap yet

 

[ntsqd]

IMHO the water pump and timing cover design for the Exploder are far superior to any other SBF assembly that I've ever seen. It's almost like all the others are clueless and inept attempts to copy a superior design, except they came first.

 

[bigmuddy]

Thanks bigmuddy, there is a lot if info on the Explorer Serp setup:
https://classicbroncos.com/tech/explorer-5-0-serpentine-accessory-drive-belt-conversion
I'm not sure I want to make the leap yet

Don't hesitate! make the leap and move on, one of the best mods I ever did to my bronco years ago.

 

[pbwcr]

I converted my mustang motor (serp) to Explorer setup with AC. I have leftovers from my Explorer conversion both for Mustang parts and unused Explorer parts. Some are new (Explorer) and some are hardly any miles (Mustang).
Contact me if stuff is needed or if tips are needed.
PaulW

 

[nvrstuk]

Well, gave the Alum radiator and my SuperDuty trans cooler setups another test this past week.

They passed with flying colors- again. Guess I'll be leaving it alone.

Was cruising around Kalispell, MT and Glacier Park with some good Bronco friends earlier this week. So dang hot we ended up going home a couple days early for other reasons.

High 90's every day, climbing to 6,000ft in 3rd gear for miles and I never got above 143deg F on the trans and the 460 never budged off of t-stat temp. Couple Exploder EFI setups that couldn't stay cool so I feel like this is a good setup and would recommend it to all.

 

[chuzie]

How's the trans cooler mounted and in conjunction with rad or no?

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

 

[nvrstuk]

Yup, same as the last setup for location. Just have one trans cooler instead of 2 in series.

 

[Yeller]

Glad your happy with the radiator, have the same unit in my Geep project, if its good with your fire breathing stroker it should be perfectly happy with my milder build goals of 420/520 power;D

somehow it keeps the current 125hp Buick 350 well under tstat temp. put card board in front of the radiator and the tstat opens and closes at 180 like its supposed to visually watching it with the cap off and ir thermometer in hand, but only runs 140 going down the road..... and the sender is right behind the tstat so I'd say its a cooling beast LOL

 

[chuzie]

Glad your happy with the radiator, have the same unit in my Geep project, if its good with your fire breathing stroker it should be perfectly happy with my milder build goals of 420/520 power;D

somehow it keeps the current 125hp Buick 350 well under tstat temp. put card board in front of the radiator and the tstat opens and closes at 180 like its supposed to visually watching it with the cap off and ir thermometer in hand, but only runs 140 down going down the road..... and the sender is right behind the tstat so I'd say its a cooling beast LOL

Damn! Maybe I should ditch this campion, quit pinching pennies and buy a decent radiator for a change!

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

 

[nvrstuk]

Chuzie- SD cooler is in frt of the radiator.

The Champion uses small tubes in their radiator. Not as much surface area for the water to contact and therefore doesn't cool as well. There was another reason I didntgo Champion when I called them and I will try to remember what that was... hmmm. Lol

Anyway, the Griffin won out for me after all research suggested that I uses all the features in their radiators.

 

[ZOSO]

I'm gonna bump this back up. What is everyone doing for getting the heat out from under the hood? I still have factory inner fenders. Thinking of biltcool ventilators and wrapping the headers. Any other tricks? I also notice that my explorer fan blows air out the sides of the fan and not back across the motor to push heat out. Any one else notice that?

 

[nvrstuk]

I ended up cutting my inner fenders out not because I was overheating anymore with the 418 but when I stuffed in the 460 sbf, tubed the front, moved the strg box literally into the grill and a host of other mod's it was just easier to ditch the inners. WOW, I love it. Need to pull a plug? Need to re-route your strg? Need to do anything like pulling the oil filter or oil psi sender.... yeah, at least put the cool looking screens in you can buy if you want the "stockish" look under the hood. I am amazed at how convenient it is w/o them. Also, I wheel this baby a lot and I am amazed that the 40"s toss the snow/ice straight up not all over the intake. I avoid mud like the PLAGUE so I have no experience there.

IF you don't want to remove the fenders the high pressure area under the hood is the area along the inner fender closest to the firewall- we all know this area as the area that rusts away. Put screen there and you can get a lot of heat out.

Otherwise, you are stuck with a very tiny engine compartment that wasn't designed for airflow when making 300, 400, 500 or 600 HP in my case. An inline 170 cu in 6 cyl chugging along at 2200 rpm isn't making any heat... lol

You are moving in the right direction.... the hot air has to go somewhere. Wrap the SS headers, wrap the pipes, give the heated air somewhere to go...

 

[toddz69]

I'm gonna bump this back up. What is everyone doing for getting the heat out from under the hood? I still have factory inner fenders. Thinking of biltcool ventilators and wrapping the headers. Any other tricks? I also notice that my explorer fan blows air out the sides of the fan and not back across the motor to push heat out. Any one else notice that?

What fan shroud do you have?

Todd Z.

 

[chuzie]

My explorer plastic fan with HD clutch and Ron Davis full circle shroud is money for 351 and performed in moab in 100* heat. It stays cool when it's not on fire. Headers wrapped too and i have an oil cooler with fan under hood as well.

Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk

 

[DirtDonk]

Any other tricks?

The air-dam setups that block flow between the core support and grille such as our Tool Tray: https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Stainless-Air-Dam-with-Built-in-Tool-Tray/Bronco_Radiators actually work too.
Anything that helps focus the flow of air through, rather than around the radiator is considered a good thing.

I also notice that my explorer fan blows air out the sides of the fan and not back across the motor to push heat out. Any one else notice that?

I have not noted that on any others. But also have not paid that close attention since they usually work so well.
I'll try to remember to check mine in a little bit when I go out.

Let you know if I feel excessive blowing to the side.

Paul

 

[pbwcr]

Details mater
The fitment of the shroud to the fan blades is important. Read up on how deep the fan should be and how far the edge of the blade is to the shroud.
Not easy to get a clutch to make the fan depth in the shroud close to correct. Mine ended up ~half way. The result was a Hayden extreme clutch and my custom plastic/glass shroud. I fit 4 clutches to got the one I liked. I was so impressed I used the same on my Jeep.
I found some medium density foam that I cut to fit between the core support and the side of the radiator. Since my shroud was mostly plastic I trimmed all around so the fitment to the radiator such that there were no gaps between them (or as close as I could).
Rig in question:
'72 with 5.0HO/AOD, Explorer front dress and Explorer pump with the small pully. Kevin S now owns it.

 

[DirtDonk]

Well I checked mine, and I think we may have a little bit of a differentiation of interpretatiation.
With our setups as compact as they are, even a perfect arrangement pulling air through the radiator and shroud is going to feel like it’s washing out the side of the shroud. That’s because there’s pretty much nowhere else for it to go.
The engine and other hard components are literally right behind the fan so even air coming straight back is only doing that for an inch or two before it washes out around the side and around the engine. Making all the air feel like it is bypassing the shroud.

The key factor in all this is whether or not it’s keeping the engine cool.
Were you simply concerned about the feel of the airflow? Or are you actually having a cooling problem with your explorer set up?

 

[ZOSO]

Fan is metal explorer with full circle shroud. Fan is 1/2 way and has about an inch all the way around.

I also have an air dam in place like the WH one. I did notice previously that with the hood closed and idling I had air coming out the front of the hood over the core support.

I believe most of my issue is just sitting still or wheeling with a high load/slow speed it tends to heat soak.