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Wiring help needed

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fummins97

fummins97

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that is simple and easy dirtdonk, appreciate that greatly. can you answer my other question about the starter wiring, where does the small stud wire come from? I think from the picture shown earlier in this thread, that the cable from my solenoid that goes to the starter also has a smaller gauge wire and that is the one that goes to the small stud??? just doesn't make sense to me because the power is coming from the same place and hooks to two different post on the starter.
 

DirtDonk

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Grn/rd---Charge light----anyone find a light for this?

I think I will just cap off the charge light as you suggest, one less thing to hook up.

There isn't a "kit" for a correct charge light, but there were some good suggestions by Steve83 and some others in another thread about that subject.

It's ok to leave it out too of course, but don't you still need that Green w/red wire connected to the switch to excite the alternator when the key is in RUN?

Will work on the starter stuff next...

Paul
 

DirtDonk

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...where does the small stud wire come from? I think from the picture shown earlier in this thread, that the cable from my solenoid that goes to the starter also has a smaller gauge wire and that is the one that goes to the small stud??? just doesn't make sense to me because the power is coming from the same place and hooks to two different post on the starter.

Just to make sure, can you post up a pic of your starter? This way we're certain what we're working with.
The starter wiring is actually pretty simple once you get it.

Let's start by changing some words for starters though.
For this discussion the unit on the wheel well is the "starter relay" and the unit piggybacking the starter motor is the "starter solenoid". Which, in fact, is just exactly what they are.
The starter relay simply takes the higher load of the starter solenoid off of the weaker ignition switch. Helps it last longer and, when you release the key it isolates the starter so that it does not feed back into the system causing run-on.
The starter solenoid does the duties of both a switch and the lever that pushes the gears into mesh. This "physical movement" of the lever and gear is actually what defines it as a "solenoid" in the first place. Instead of just a simple relay/switch that only closes electrical contacts but does not do any manual labor.

On the fender, the left side of your starter relay still gets the positive battery cable, and you move your starter cable from the right side to the left side. The other end still goes to the starter solenoid's large post.
This is what messes a lot of people's minds, because they think the power is always at the starter now and so it'll spin as soon as you connect the battery. This does not happen because the solenoid does not let it make an electrical connection until the small wire tells it to.

The new smaller (10ga usually) wire now connects from your starter relay's right post to the new starter solenoid's small post. This is the wire that tells the starter to spin.
When you turn the key to START, your old relay now simply tells the new solenoid to kick things into gear and get to spinning.

There is a large gauge interconnect between your starter solenoid and the motor itself. This is because both need a good current flow from the battery to work properly, but they are able to stay isolated until the small wire gets it's signal from the relay and closes the big heavy duty switch inside the solenoid.

Clear as muddy muck now?%)
Many millions of American cars and trucks used starters similar to your new one and had a heavy gauge wire (probably 10ga too) run directly from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid, without the use of the fender mounted relay. Our stock Ford setups used lighter duty switches and smaller gauge wires because the relay was necessary for our stock style starter. Wiring our switches directly to the new starter solenoids is not a good idea due to the heavier load placed on the ignition switch and the smaller wire. Even Ford retained the starter relay mounted on the fender when they switched to the smaller PMGR starters with the piggyback solenoids. We do the same for the best results.
We also have found that for some reason not found on legions of GM vehicles that eliminating the relay and losing it's isolating characteristics allowed some feedback from the spinning starter motor into the system and caused the starters to run on for a couple of seconds. Surprised a lot of people.

So we continue to use the relay and go by the diagram that Garry posted before.
It also gives you a much more convenient and heat/chemical/weather resistant location to mount extra wires and such.
Bonus.

Some of us have successfully run both the large starter cable and the smaller 10ga trigger wire from the same right side stud of the fender mounted relay. The starter doesn't care that the electricity to energize the solenoid AND spin the starter motor arrives at the same time. But you do lose the isolating properties and might run afoul of the run on. Haven't had that happen yet, but it could.

Paul
 
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fummins97

fummins97

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my starter is the motorcraft version, it has two large studs and one small. one of the large studs looks to be a ground to the starter itself. Think I'm clear on the sarter, big red from battery to relay, same post relay to starter & 10g from other post on relay to small stud on starter.
 

DirtDonk

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Sounds right. But one thing you should never do is assume that any big stud on a starter is a ground. Ever.
Not unless you know for sure, or see something in print that says specifically this is a ground. Otherwise, it's not a ground.

If the two big studs are oriented one above the other, then they're probably sharing the same function but you just can't see the interconnect. But that's why I wanted to see a picture of it to be sure we were talking apples-to-apples.

Paul
 

Viperwolf1

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my starter is the motorcraft version, it has two large studs and one small. one of the large studs looks to be a ground to the starter itself. Think I'm clear on the sarter, big red from battery to relay, same post relay to starter & 10g from other post on relay to small stud on starter.

Correct on the wiring details but incorrect on the starter description. Where the wires connect is a starter mounted solenoid. The upper stud gets full time 12V. The solenoid makes the connection to the lower stud (which goes to the starter windings) but only when it has 12V to the small stud. The lower stud is not a ground.
 
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fummins97

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can't get a good picture of mine with the headers on, but its the same as this picture
 

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fummins97

fummins97

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Guess my next problem is the fender mounted relay's left stud is too full to get that other cable on! I have batt to relay wire, relay to alternator wire, yellow Centech wire and red Centech wire. Already took the second nut off that stud for room. ????
 
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fummins97

fummins97

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It will look like this:

904Bronco, why do you have less wires on your relay then mine and why does your alternator wires connect to that mega fuse? Assuming you don't have a Centech harness, but theory on wiring should be the same. I swear I'm going in circles on this. Definitely will do a full schematic for future users of Garry's harness with a Centech harness.

Viperwolf, I'm looking for a relay with a longer stud. Is there something like that out there?
 

904Bronco

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904Bronco, why do you have less wires on your relay then mine and why does your alternator wires connect to that mega fuse? Assuming you don't have a Centech harness, but theory on wiring should be the same. I swear I'm going in circles on this. Definitely will do a full schematic for future users of Garry's harness with a Centech harness.

Viperwolf, I'm looking for a relay with a longer stud. Is there something like that out there?

Well I only just started installing the EFI harness, I have not started on the Centech harness.... I ran all my battery cables and large grounds first. But there should be two more power leads, one from the Centech harness and one from Garry's fuse box....
I relocated my Batt to the other side, so can add wires with something like Viperwolf has posted if needed.

The field wire and the stator wire on the Alt do not go to the fuse... Just looks that way in the picture
 
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fummins97

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okay that makes me feel better about mine. I'm going to try to figure something out for now, just don't need another electrical connection. Hooking up the trans wiring and redoing the volt meter wire. I'm sure I'll be back with more, thanks
 

904Bronco

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okay that makes me feel better about mine. I'm going to try to figure something out for now, just don't need another electrical connection. Hooking up the trans wiring and redoing the volt meter wire. I'm sure I'll be back with more, thanks

By the time you finish you will be an expert :p And then you will be helping out others...
 
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fummins97

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Couldn't find a longer stud relay, really don't want another link on the fender. So is there any reason I couldn't move the mega fuse to the battery itself? That would leave me enough room for everything else on the relay post.
 

Viperwolf1

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Couldn't find a longer stud relay, really don't want another link on the fender. So is there any reason I couldn't move the mega fuse to the battery itself? That would leave me enough room for everything else on the relay post.

Yes, that would work.
 
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fummins97

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So I'm back, everything is hooked up best of my knowledge. Hit the key, charge light comes on and that's it, turn to start and nothing. I don't even have a fuel pump, and I did check the inertia switch. Can I get a check list or something lmao. I checked every connection. I checked for power to the ignition. Lights work, wipers work. Going to check the neutral safety switch now, just looking for other options???

Also, in Garry's harness he makes a very nice 4 pack fuse holder for O2 sensors and such. But at the bottom is a stud labeled "b+", no clue what that one is for??
 

904Bronco

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So I'm back, everything is hooked up best of my knowledge. Hit the key, charge light comes on and that's it, turn to start and nothing. I don't even have a fuel pump, and I did check the inertia switch. Can I get a check list or something lmao. I checked every connection. I checked for power to the ignition. Lights work, wipers work. Going to check the neutral safety switch now, just looking for other options???

Also, in Garry's harness he makes a very nice 4 pack fuse holder for O2 sensors and such. But at the bottom is a stud labeled "b+", no clue what that one is for??

Battery 12V (+ positive) You have no power to the EFI circuits. Battery power needs to go to that stud...
 
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fummins97

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Battery 12V (+ positive) You have no power to the EFI circuits. Battery power needs to go to that stud...

Well I adjusted the shift rod correctly and got it to crank. So that was a plus.
904bronco should that wire be a heavy gauge like the starter cable? Simple connection from battery positive to that stud? That would be great if it's that easy.
 

Viperwolf1

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Well I adjusted the shift rod correctly and got it to crank. So that was a plus.
904bronco should that wire be a heavy gauge like the starter cable? Simple connection from battery positive to that stud? That would be great if it's that easy.

10g is all you should need for that circuit.
 
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