Hey, has anyone seen my carb?

[taz7nads]

This is on a '69 I just recently got and started tweaking. It was running when parked, been sitting for a long while. New belts and hoses, fluids, etc., and thought I would stab a carb kit while I was at it. I haven't had the carb off and inspected it, but it looks factory vs. aftermarket. I didn't see a tag on it, but didn't know if FoMoCo used tags or not. Thought I might show it here and if anybody recognized it, I could get a carb kit ordered and be ready when I pulled it off.

 

[bronconut73]

Probably the stock 2 barrel.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Looks like a stock motorcraft. I forget the difference between the 2100 and 2150, same basic carb.

 

[taz7nads]

thanks guys. With the above info, I went to carbfactory.com and found that Code F-2, Model 2100 was used on a 1958-1974 302 engine, and the 2150 didn't show up until later in the the 1970's and 80's. Probably gonna be the 2100; will look for that when I pull it off and start cleaning.

 

[half cab]

Yup looks likely to be the correct 2100 for that yr.

 

[broncnaz]

X3 autolite/motorcraft 2100 most rebuild kits cover all the 2100 and 2150 versions so its really no big deal.

 

[Rustytruck]

That carb needed some luving a long time ago.

 

[TwoDalesDad]

Do yourself a favor...Pickup a Four barrel....make that Pony Happy...The 2. Barrel is the worst carb....its like a open hose sloshing fuel into the engine.....

 

[DirtDonk]

Is that a real PCV valve hidden under that giant hose going to the passenger side valve cover? ;D
Might be, but it's hard to see. Which might mean it's not been replaced in awhile either. Wouldn't hurt to check it out and see if it's clean and newer looking. If not, they're cheap to replace.

The method of "adapting" the hose could lead to vacuum leaks though, so make sure it's tight, or figure out a better way.

Check your distributor plumbing too. Looks like you're still equipped with the old dual-diaphragm vacuum timing thingy there behind the carburetor. It needs to be connected to specifically routed and controlled vacuum hoses, which it doesn't appear to be from here.
If you can't find a vacuum diagram for it, you may just plug off all the extra ports, and use only the single advance port (usually the front one on the distributor) plugged into the timed-vacuum source on the carburetor.

Of course, you did say it ran when you got it. So maybe it's best to leave well enough alone in some cases. But if it's not running quite perfectly, some or all of those things may have something to do with it.

Paul

 

[joshnjulie1]

Do yourself a favor...Pickup a Four barrel....make that Pony Happy...The 2. Barrel is the worst carb....its like a open hose sloshing fuel into the engine.....

That 2 barrel Autolite 2100 is one of the most reliable carbs ever built. What good would a 4 barrel do on a bone stock engine?

 

[rguest3]

Motorcraft / Autolite Carbs are still one of the best carbs around. The one pictured above needs some attention though.

The 2100 comes in different sizes too. If you have headers and maybe a small cam installed you can go up in venturi size as an option.

 

[turbotim2]

Autolite 2100 - like others said, one of the best carbs out there!

 

[Broncobowsher]

That 2 barrel Autolite 2100 is one of the most reliable carbs ever built. What good would a 4 barrel do on a bone stock engine?

X4 (I think)

Great carb. Very functional. Had an International once that came with a factory Holley, that I removed and put a 2100 on. It just worked after that.

 

[Golfball]

I just rebuilt my 2150 (almost the same carb) and it was very easy to do. Fired right up (after I put gas in the tank;D )

 

[Rustytruck]

Is that a real PCV valve hidden under that giant hose going to the passenger side valve cover? ;D
Might be, but it's hard to see. Which might mean it's not been replaced in awhile either. Wouldn't hurt to check it out and see if it's clean and newer looking. If not, they're cheap to replace.

The method of "adapting" the hose could lead to vacuum leaks though, so make sure it's tight, or figure out a better way.

Check your distributor plumbing too. Looks like you're still equipped with the old dual-diaphragm vacuum timing thingy there behind the carburetor. It needs to be connected to specifically routed and controlled vacuum hoses, which it doesn't appear to be from here.
If you can't find a vacuum diagram for it, you may just plug off all the extra ports, and use only the single advance port (usually the front one on the distributor) plugged into the timed-vacuum source on the carburetor.

Of course, you did say it ran when you got it. So maybe it's best to leave well enough alone in some cases. But if it's not running quite perfectly, some or all of those things may have something to do with it.

Paul

Note: There is also no fresh air inlet for the pvc system.

 

[DirtDonk]

Good eyes! I hadn't noticed the standard closed cap on the driver's side cover.
So for inlets, his engine uses every possible orifice/leaky seal/blown gasket/porous material it can find. ;D Not exactly the most clean-n-filtered way to do it I'd say.

Although, you can get a performance gain by pulling a vacuum inside the crankcase, and some of the offending gasses will still get pulled out (maybe by osmosis!). Too bad you're never likely to feel a couple of horsepower in a truck engine, and not enough of the dirty gasses that cause trouble with the oil are being pulled out.
Might want to look into that taz.

What we're on about is that to have a functioning PCV system (which is a very good thing by the way) you need the valve hooked to vacuum, like you have in the passenger side cover, AND a place for filtered fresh air to return back into the crankcase.
Usually it's in the opposite valve cover of a V-engine.

From the pic your oil-fill cap looks closed and sealed. Is that the case, or is there a port for a tube somewhere we can't see?

Paul

 

[taz7nads]

you guys have given me a boatload of good info here. I'll print this page, stick it in my binder, and pull it out when I get to working on the engine. Right now, it's floor pan repair and getting a door latch fixed. PO said it WAS running when he parked it (indoors) approx 11 years ago due to an exhaust leak (new headers came with it), but there's no telling what I'll have to do when I get under the hood. Not really worried, though; lotsa knowledge here.