LORE Bronco restore

[tasker]

LOOKS great! keep after it!

 

[halogrinder]

Smoke tested the tank, it passed! lol
got the drivetrain pulled, waiting on break in oil to prime the system, goop and stab the dizzy, and its off to dyno. Maybe this week. IDK.

 

[halogrinder]

347 dyno worked out pretty good so far. This is a 6K rpm pull https://youtu.be/Khish2OUzE8

Made 433/458. May have a little more in it- but I lost crank signal in the distributor on the last attempt to start it.

Weird.

I checked the CDI box, its got an orange LED.

Tap the white wire to it, and the coil plug wire sparks off, so I know the CDI and coil is good.

Measured Ohm reading on the dual sync distributor and it shows 1.9mOhm- so essentially open.

It should be 500-700 ohms. So, its currently sitting on the dyno waiting on Holley tech support on what's going on.

Amazing that MSD/Holley didn't make this sensor serviceable (a hall sensor)

 

[halogrinder]

So now that it's back from dyno I wanted to sort out my internal clutch slave situation.
I originally bought a Wilwood external slave that would pull, so I was gonna make a little bracket off the tcase or trans, and drill a hole in the clutch fork to have it pull it back.
This brought a few issues of packaging and whatnot- nothing that couldn't be overcome- but Wilwood made the body of the unit move with the hydraulic hose- which I thought wasn't the smartest thing in the world. Now, you have a clutch hose thats moving every time you pushed in the clutch.
So, time to build a better mousetrap.
McLeod was the answer.

This is a Luk Clutch pressure plate, and an 11" clutch disc to go on the nv3550 from Tom's Bronco parts.
I'm hoping this clutch will hold up to the power now.

Initially I tried doing this with a tape measure, but it was ineffective at producing accurate enough results.
Yes, I know there isn't a clutch disc in these photos.
YOU HAVE TO HAVE THE CLUTCH DISC INSTALLED DURING MEASUREMENT!

I measured the input shaft of the NV3550 and went on https://www.mcleodracing.com/ to go find something that may work.

So I ordered one up

Here's the part number 1400-30
and the link https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mcl-1400-30

Whats in the BOX?!

This is whats in the box

She's a beut, Clark!

So, what's neat about this is how it's adjusted. this ring here can spin to adjust it's depth.

I used some of this to lubricate the orings. Big fan of this for oring lube in general.

ploop
slid right one (after I scuffed the nose of the transmission and cleaned it)

So the object of the game is to get the TOB to be close to the PP. so you have to do some measuring
Again, using a tape measure was NOT accurate enough, I used a pair of calipers to do this, but holding calipers sucks trying to take a pic, so tape measure it is for you

In my case, I had to use the ring that is supplied to space it away from the transmission.

Messing with the ring, threading it out and the ring got me to within .100 of what I needed.

So, A combo of flat measuring stick devices, along with careful tongue holding eventually got me an average between one side and the other from the block to the face of the pressure plate.

Without the bellhousing on it.

With the bellhousing on it, the hoses tight, and ziptied to keep it from moving around

Thru a new clutch fork boot.

I had to spin it "out" (closer to trans) to get the throw out bearing to spin with my finger, so i unbolted the trans, moved it back enough to push the hoses back in, and spun the whole thing one revolution inside the bellhousing. no biggie.

But, tadaaa!
She's ready to be bled and off we go!

Engine/trans/tcase are back in.
Waiting on Jess from Hi Angle to get me the rear output flange, and Wildhorses for a 32 spline output.
I should've done that before, but honestly didn't know the Dana 20 weakness, nor knew the actual power the engine was going to make.

 

[tasker]

VERY impressive work and thanks for sharing each step!

 

[halogrinder]

getting things done

 

[DirtDonk]

Beautiful.
I wonder if it's worth making a disposable/sacrificial/replaceable shield over the top of your X-section of the exhaust to catch the grease that will inevitably fling off of the u-joints?
Not that it's a dire emergency. Just that it'd be nice to keep the stains off of the clean tubing for a longer period.

Paul

 

[halogrinder]

Nice idea, but I'm sure not practical due to space constraints

 

[sprdv1]

VERY impressive work and thanks for sharing each step!

for sure....

 

[halogrinder]

Sumbish is Chrome yellow, aint it

 

[DirtDonk]

Yes it is!

 

[fordfan]

That's Bright!! Awesome build you have going. I've been following along just watching.....LOL..

 

[sprdv1]

lovin it....

Sumbish is Chrome yellow, aint it

 

[halogrinder]

Today was "clean up the cluster" day. Looks pretty good. The ultrasonic machine took the paint right off (it was cracking and peeling)....The speed line gave me major anxiety trying to freehand that. I'm not too impressed with the voltage gauge conversion from Classy gauges. The needle doesn't match, it's too long (I cut it down to match #yolo), and it's a sticker over some other Voltage gauge.... No bueno.....AND it's not the proper background shape. Lame. I 3D printed a cup as a masking line for the ring if I was going to paint it...... In any case, I asked my pops if he wanted this black or left in its chrome-ish appearance- so its staying like this lol

 

[svastano]

Great progress! Looks great

 

[halogrinder]

Greenfields knocked it out of the park. Off to LineX of Houston to get the tub sprayed now.

 

[halogrinder]

 

[stout22]

It's hard to beat the look of fresh paint. Looks great!

 

[fordfan]

Yes, paint looks great! That old four door dent side pulling the trailer isn't to shabby either...

 

[halogrinder]

Yes, paint looks great! That old four door dent side pulling the trailer isn't to shabby either...

That's my current daily/tow pig.
It's getting a Gen2 coyote/6R80 here real soon