New member, new project, Wisdom welcome...

[Kaptn Obvious]

I'd love to say we've made great progress, but not so much... The new rule is WE work on her truck, not me.

I started digging into the front hubs to get at the wheel bearings and had little luck. My puny snap ring pliers weren't up to the job, so I got new ones. Then I spent quite a while trying to get the outer snap ring out of the hub. As you can guess the next thing I ran into was the spindle nut. I went to the parts store and asked about a socket. They looked at me like I was an alien. I did some digging on the net. Is this the tool I need?

http://www.tomsbroncoparts.com/product.php?id=469

Aside from that I tried to take a peek at the rear drums. I could only get it to move 1/8" or so This tells me the shoes are grooved and I'm going to be farting around with an adjuster for a while. The drum had a hollow thud to it and dirt fell out of it every time I smacked it. You've got to pick your battles... I'll save that one for later...

 

[Viperwolf1]

That's the hub tool you need.

 

[Kaptn Obvious]

Thanks, & ordered.

Any thought's on a lift kit? Not looking for a lot of lift 2-3" The front springs are broken and the back springs are flat. The kits I've been looking at have new front springs and lift blocks for the rear. I haven't been able to locate anything that will put new springs on all 4 corners with just a mild lift.

Is there's any way to combine that with a bushing kit without buying lots of extra parts?

 

[70_Steve]

I found a great deal on a new 600 cfm edelbrock performer.

Any thought's on my fuel pump/ intake search?

Not sure of your intended use for the Bronco, but, if it makes any difference to you (and you haven't bought it yet), the Edelbrock Performer (aka Carter AFB) is far from the best (read "worst") carb for off-road use. A Holley Truck Avenger, or quadrajet will perform much better.

Again, not sure of your intended use, but most of us who look for some off-road performance, look for low end torque, not high RPM horsepower. An Edelbrock Performer (not Performer RPM) manifold is a nice all-around manifold. You can find some good deals on them on Ebay. The stock mechanical fuel pump will do quite nicely, but, being in Austin, and especially if you're going to off-road in the summer, vapor lock may be a concern. One way to help avoid that is to install an electric fuel pump back at the rear of the Bronco in place of the mechanical pump. A lot of us have had good luck with the Carter 4070 pump.

 

[70_Steve]

Any thought's on a lift kit? Not looking for a lot of lift 2-3" The front springs are broken and the back springs are flat. The kits I've been looking at have new front springs and lift blocks for the rear. I haven't been able to locate anything that will put new springs on all 4 corners with just a mild lift.

Is there's any way to combine that with a bushing kit without buying lots of extra parts?

For a complete (sort of) kit, take a look at Wild Horses (advert at top of page). They have several stages of suspension kits. Real quick, I looked at the 2 1/2" and 3 1/2" System 3 kit. Front and rear springs, longer shocks, bushings, dropped track bar bracket, new u-bolts.

Personally, I would avoid lift blocks, and add-a-leaves are marginal, at best. If you have the coin available, go with the complete new rear springs.

 

[Kaptn Obvious]

For a complete (sort of) kit, take a look at Wild Horses (advert at top of page). They have several stages of suspension kits. Real quick, I looked at the 2 1/2" and 3 1/2" System 3 kit. Front and rear springs, longer shocks, bushings, dropped track bar bracket, new u-bolts.

Personally, I would avoid lift blocks, and add-a-leaves are marginal, at best. If you have the coin available, go with the complete new rear springs.

Thanks for the $.02 I'm with you on both thoughts. I had issues with an edeldrock stalling in hard corners years ago. (No brakes and no power steering makes for a fun time if you already bit off more than you can chew... ;D ) If memory serves an offroad needle seat kit did the trick. I don't even see that listed anymore. As for the carb it's a brand new in the box Edelbrock performer model 1400 With electric choke I picked up off Craigslist for $150 It was too good to pass up. If nothing else I have an overcarburated SB 350 that could also use it. If that doesn't work I can still sell it without taking a loss. I think an electric fuel pump is also a good idea. The truck has always had issues with vapor lock.

As for the springs, anything worth doing is worth doing right. I know she's going to beat on it, but I don't think it will ever be a serious trail rig. Add a leafs and blocks are out. The suspension on the truck is 30 years old and tired. It's time for some new toys.

Money is a bit tight now, but this is a project, we're in no hurry. The end goal is to have a dependable weekend warrior.

 

[sprdv1]

Welcome aboard sir..

 

[Pearlcoat]

Thanks for the info joe we'll definitely be in touch...

It's still got the factory 3 speed. It's just been converted from a column shift to a floor shift. For now it works, I think... Haven't done a road test yet...

Like I mentioned earlier the fuel pump and carb took one for the team after 20 min of running. I found a great deal on a new 600 cfm edelbrock performer. I'm looking for a good 4 barrel intake to put it on. I'm also looking for a new fuel pump... Will a stock pump feed the 4 barrel or do I heed to step up to something else?

Any thought's on my fuel pump/ intake search?

I have an Edelbrock Performer manifold with EGR for sale if you're interested. Removed it from a running 302 (combo was Edelbrock carb/manifold-sold the carb) that was replaced with EFI last month. Send me a PM if you want more info and pictures.

 

[Landho]

Welcome to the addiction, er - hobby, er... certainly something I appreciate here at Classicbroncos as with most of the Bronco community in general - nobody is going to call you out for being a newbie, in fact - since you're new more people seem willing to help make your Bronco what you want it to be. It is really an amazing niche to be a part of.

I will x3 the recommendation to join the Lonestar Early Bronco Club -http://www.lonestar-ebc.com/LEBCPortal.asp and to get in touch with BC Broncos out in Ingram, TX (click their link at the top of this forum). I am a newbie myself and the helpful insight and bond of that club just via the email list is amazing. LEBC, along with this forum, and BC Broncos have been unmeasurable in valuable assistance and guidance to me (and I'm sure many others).

 

[Kaptn Obvious]

This weekends work just showed more work...

Tried to drop the fuel tank, all but two of the frame bolts broke off. Not to mention that the skid plate is almost in two pieces.

The front output on the transfer case has about 1/8" of slop in in and is leaking.

As luck would have it Bronco Graveyard just happens to list a repo skid plate plus a bearing & seal kit for the transfer case (they knew I was coming right?)

In fact, they list two kits. Any thoughts as to which one I need?

I need a book...

 

[Heus33]

I need a book...

Chiltons will be your best friend. ;D

 

[Kaptn Obvious]

Long overdue update...

***yoink*** Thread back from the dead!

I was laid off last summer. I spent about 3 months looking for a job. I finally work grossly underpaid. I got the call I've been waiting for a couple of weeks ago and I'm now back at my old job. The sky is the limit on OT, so project Bertha is back underway.

Over the summer the lady and I tore into the truck as time, help & funds allowed. I know this sounds lame, but it took 2 months to drop the tranny and transfer case. The main obstacle was help getting it out and the bolt on the top for the transfer case shifter. We ended up notching the floorboard and peeling it back like a can opener to get enough clearance to drop it with the shifter still attached, then cut the bolt off with a die grinder. I had my bud stitch the floorboard back up he did a great job. The only sign left is fresh paint in the tunnel.

I just got back from picking up the tranny from Pistole's They installed the bearing & seal kit & went through the transmission. They replaced the 3rd gear syncro & a plate of some sort. For $350. I was skeptical of the shop when I left the tranny with a strung out meth head gap toothed twitchy crack ho. I felt a lot better when I picked it up and had a chance to chat with the men behind the curtain.

And now for the thoughts and questions:

She had the tranny rebuilt by the lowest bidder shortly before the trucks 9 year hiatus. I know she was a starving student and went with the best deal she could find. I think at the same time she had the truck converted to floor shift. I'm thinking that either the syncro was good enough to get it out of the shop w/o ordering parts, or the shifter was not installed right causing tranny dammage. The only thing I know about transmissions is how to take them out and put them in. I'm sure someone can answer this question.

The floor shift kit she had installed was a Duff. I had lots of "help" removing the tranny. I left the linkage as it was and removed that part as a unit. as for the rest I have a pile of brackets and no clue where they came from. I'm going to contact them and get some info as to what goes where. If you have an extra $.02 I'd love to hear it.

The more I think about her trucks history the more I wonder... I know she used to beat on it pretty hard. We scraped off a LOT of petrified mud the kind that sticks & is built up in LAYERS.. I know that she did something and tore up the motor and had to get a rebuild. I also know that the motor went to the lowest bidder too...

And now for the motor:

After sitting for 9 years I was able to bust it loose and roll it over with minimal effort. (plugs in) I haven't run a compression test on it, but I have a nasty memory of a dirt track chevy 350 that sprained my wrist when I tried to roll it over with the plugs in a quiet ker-fwunk from the motor and an loud *%6$ from me... Wasnt the case this time... With the plugs in that motor rolls over nice and slow like butter. I could barely tell when a cylinder passed TDC. I dunno if this is the norm for stock motors, but I found it odd.

To add to the motor questions, if sounds like the wimpiest 302 i've ever heard. Granted when we fired it up the carb was toast and running stupid rich. It ran smooth, sounded like it either had tit flaps for a cam or the timing is wayy off.

This far into the project I'm thinking it would be kinda stupid to not go through the motor. & make sure it's right. A full gasket set is $60 I think I'd be a fool to have it this far apart and assume the motor is solid. The tit flap bumpstick has got to go... I have already found a Edelborck 600, still looking for an intake.

The plan is a hotrod budget build weekend warrior "Prius Pusher" =) 3 1/2" Lift on 33's It's going to see mostly highway miles and the occasional weekend trip. I know the tires will suck the life out of the motor w/o gears. I think the carb, intake, cam and headers just might do the trick... Any thought's for a good cam?

Thanks in advance.

J

 

[Kaptn Obvious]

I forgot to mention, this is her truck. My job is 90 % tech support and 10% bolt loosen-er-upper. Coolest chick I've ever met, If I can marry her I will... (wish me luck?) I need to dig the summer's pics off my old comp and upload them

Aside from that. The tranny came back clean, but bare. Any thought's for paint? If I were to guess, purple...

 

[maddawg7895]

I love my column shift and that looks almost exactly like mine before we primered it.

 

[DirtDonk]

Yeah, sounds like it's a bit limp in the compression department alright. But a test will prove or disprove that theory. Remember too, in '77 they really were in the infant throws of smog-iness and were still trying to reduce emissions with what they had. That meant lower compression ratios and retarded (literally) cams. And like you've been figuring, it's also 30+ years old with, perhaps, a rebuild of unknown quality.
Time for some corrective surgery for sure.
Don't really have a specific cam recommendation for you, but these days there are a ton of really good mild cams out there. Just make your decision based on what you ultimately want to end up with. Keeping it mild is usually the best course.
Good heads, or at least heads that have been fully re-conditioned can really wake up a tired old engine. Getting rid of all those compression-reducing valve leaks does wonders for how your engine feels.

Back to an old question you had, did you ever change the lubes in the gear boxes? If not, I'd use a nice 75w/90 gear lube in the transmission, front and rear differentials, and maybe even the transfer case. Your t-case was originally spec'ed to run 50 weight non-detergent motor oil. Something like a Valvoline Racing Oil or similar straight 50 weight.
Since I'm using a synthetic gear lube in mine, that does not have the additives that used to eat up bronze bushings and shims (lie you have in the t-case, I use it in my Dana 20 as well. So I can have the same lube in all gear boxes.
No real detractor to using gear lube in the three boxes, and 50wt racing oil in the t-case. It's just a tiny bit more convenient to be able to run the same stuff. Until further time with your rig though, I'd just run the cheap stuff. That way when you find you have to dig into something to fix it, you don't waste the expensive synthetic stuff.

As for the pile-o-brackets, do you have pics of them over on the other site you linked to earlier? Might help to see what's going on, but there should be 2 steel "levers" about 1/4" thick with double-bends and holes in each end. Those go right onto the transmission's threaded shift rods sticking out the side.
Then there should be two roughly 12-18 inch long rods with threaded adjusters on (each?) end.
Then you'd have the actual mounting brackets. Which may be the only things you're talking about. There is a curved piece of flat stock with a 3/8" diameter tube welded to one end. This stabilizer bracket mounts to the back of the transfer case. Not sure where the other (two?) pieces would go, but someone should have some instructions somewhere. Did you get through to Duff yet?
If I remember my Duff shifter (made by Hurst, customized by Duff), all the rest of the parts usually stay together to make up the shifter itself. You can un-bolt the handle of course, but most of the arms and bushings and levers and thingies would stay bolted together.

Now, I'm wondering why, if you have a Duff floor shifter, you had to cut a hole to get to a bolt. Usually, the floor shifter requires a pretty substantial hole itself, and lets you get to pretty much everything up in there. Do you have the fiberglass floor-cover/console for the shifter?

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

Oh, and congrats on getting your job back.
Wish me luck on that score too. A full-time job is about the only way you're all going to get me to keep my posting to a minimum!

Paul

 

[Kaptn Obvious]

Thanks for the reply. Here's my theory on what happened:

Big nasty vice grip marks on the LF hub. We took it apart and found that the spindle bearings were hosed. From there the lack of spindle bearings wiped out the front hub. That would explain the vice grip marks. I would guess that being unable to to unlock that hub would make the front drive line idle. taking out the transfer case with it.

We drained the transfer case and tried to fill it with new gear oil. Gear oil started pouring out the front output of the transfer case. I grabbed the front drive shaft and it has about 3/8" slop in it. Enough I that It made a clunk noise wen I yanked on it.

The best I can see it a minor problem caused a serious problem that lead to a real ptoblem...

 

[DirtDonk]

The best I can see it a minor problem caused a serious problem that lead to a real ptoblem...

Ahhh, the old Proble-matic Hub, chain-reaction scenario. Must be a Bronco we're talking about then.
Typical.

Uh, unfortunately too, that lack of lubrication in the transfer case could have caused another issue. It's not guaranteed, but a distinct possibility that your rear output section (bearings and gears) could have caught some trouble from lack of available lubrication. They rely heavily on "splash" from the gears turning in the case. If the oil level was that low (almost empty?), then splash was also in short supply.

My vote, since you're practically there now, is to at least pull the rear output housing off to (in the immortal words of Kenny Rogers) see what condition it's condition is in.
Can't hurt. And might help you decide whether to just put a couple of new seals in it (the bottom one for sure!) and go, or pull the whole case and give it the once-over. Which is actually very easy by the way.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

Judging by the battle-scars on the hub knobs, I'd say "routine maintenance" was not in the PO's lexicon.
Common issue with frozen up hubs and/or something else causing a binding issue.

Probably time to make a decision to just go ahead and run through the chassis components one at a time. Take the maintenance charts for the first 50,000 miles and pretend nothing was ever done.
Do it now, with full knowledge of what lies ahead, and you won't feel like the thing is nickeling and dimeing you to death before you've had time to enjoy it.
It's all in the mind anyway...

Another member hear had one-too-many things go wrong today and just posted up that he's sick of it and going to sell.
Don't let that happen. Please!!!

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

Oh, unless you've got a really nice Bronco that is. In which case...
SHOTGUN!!!!! Pick me, Pick me!!!!

Just kidding.

Paul