Parts list for Explorer Serp Swap (hoses/belt/etc)

[kat]

After using the search engine on here I have come up with most of what Im going to need but wanted to double check with everyone here before I tear things down...I have read the tech article on how to do this but some links wear dead...I like to have my ducks in a row before I start....

This is what I have...

Engine= '71 302
Radiator= Stock Bronco Radiator
Brackets/timing chain cover= '98 Mercury Mountaineer 5.0
Harmonic Balancer= stock 302 (using a Driven pulley adapter)
3' body lift

With the above info this is what I THINK I need to get
-Carter P4070 Electric Fuel pump
-Upper radiator hose for '69 GTO w/400ci (Dayco #70480/Gates #20983)
-Serpentine belt Gates #8750k6 (not running A/C at the moment)
-Lower Radiator hose? This is where Im confused, I remember seeing some sort of pipe to run across the bottom and cut my original hose to fit?? The links are bad in the tech article

As I stated above Im using my stock harmonic balancer with a Driven Billet Aluminum adapter pulley for the serpentine belt...

Am I missing anything?? Or are the part numbers not correct??...Thanks in advance for any guidance...

 

[sykanr0ng]

The tube is this one (BCB has one also):

http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Cross_Over_Tube_5L

 

[kat]

The tube is this one (BCB has one also):

http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Cross_Over_Tube_5L

Thank you...will be ordering that this week....
Im trying to get all my parts so the Bronco wont be down for too long...

 

[Broncobowsher]

There is also a 7.3 powerstroke lower hose you can use without buying the metal tube. I forget the details.

Power steering? Will need to pick your fix for the pressure hose. Reservoir can usually be located down a couple inches for a little more clearance. Typical fix is the Lee AN fitting and making AN hose, just be sure it is proper hose and fittings for power steering as not all AN is created equeal.

The passenger side idler pulley may interfere with the crossmember. Fixes range from notching the crossmember to taller/shimmed motor mounts.

Fan shroud may not be deep enough. Some have fixed it with a thicker fan clutch but cooling will be better with a little plenum volume inside the fan shroud, so a deeper fan shroud is a good fix. Being winter right now this can be delayed until it warms up.

 

[904Bronco]

There is also a 7.3 powerstroke lower hose you can use without buying the metal tube. I forget the details.

Power steering? Will need to pick your fix for the pressure hose. Reservoir can usually be located down a couple inches for a little more clearance. Typical fix is the Lee AN fitting and making AN hose, just be sure it is proper hose and fittings for power steering as not all AN is created equeal.

The passenger side idler pulley may interfere with the crossmember. Fixes range from notching the crossmember to taller/shimmed motor mounts.

Fan shroud may not be deep enough. Some have fixed it with a thicker fan clutch but cooling will be better with a little plenum volume inside the fan shroud, so a deeper fan shroud is a good fix. Being winter right now this can be delayed until it warms up.

There is a thread on using a smaller passenger Idler pulley as well... Napa - #36079 60mm

2001 7.3 in a super duty... But it did not work for me.

I used the WH tube with the Gates bronco lower, which gets cut up.

The GTO upper hose did not work for me either, so I used the Goodyear, which is now owned by Continental. (Summit number CEL-60710) The Gates / Dayco uppers are different.
I cut it and placed a spacer in it. (see picture.) You can also see the PS resivoir drop down plate

 

[kat]

Power steering Typical fix is the Lee AN fitting and making AN hose, just be sure it is proper hose and fittings for power steering as not all AN is created equeal.

Fan shroud may not be deep enough. Some have fixed it with a thicker fan clutch.

I know I will have to get the power steering hose made but what is "Lee AN fitting and AN hose"??

2001 7.3 in a super duty... But it did not work for me.

I used the WH tube with the Gates bronco lower, which gets cut up.

The GTO upper hose did not work for me either, so I used the Goodyear, which is now owned by Continental. (Summit number CEL-60710) The Gates / Dayco uppers are different.
I cut it and placed a spacer in it.

I was looking in buying the BC Bronco one..seems to have the end hoses included but your saying I can cut up my existing bottom hose and just use the tube?? Why didn't the 2001 7.3 super duty hose or the GTO hose work for you?? What do you mean the Gates / Dayco uppers of different??...Different than what??

 

[sykanr0ng]

Duff makes an extended bracket for the lower radiator mounts, but it's for 2 inch body lift.
It would get you closer or maybe modify them or you could take the idea and make a three inch.

http://www.dufftuff.com/product_p/3111.htm

 

[904Bronco]

I am anal retentive, fixated on the small details... Not apologizing either. A little OCD probably too

I did not want kinks in the hoses, nor having them rub against the frame or engine. I like things to look like Factory.

If you put all three manufacturers upper hoses together, they are not identical. The Goodyear/Continental one fits best in MHO.

Yes I used a Gates lower bronco hose and the middle gets cut out of it. 90* section at the rad to metal pipe. Slightly bent section used to connect pipe to water pump.

 

[904Bronco]

Lee was a manufacturer that made a fitting which screwed into the Explorer PS pump pressure port and adapted it to a "AN" Fitting. I believe it was a 6 AN fitting. It allows you to have a common hose made with standard AN fittings available.

You can buy this fitting at WH or at Summit... A couple of manufactures make it. A good Hydraulic store local to you probably has them.

There are a lot of ways to do the PS pressure hoses... one is to get AN fittings to adapt the PS box and pump pressure fittings. You can reuse a portion of the factory PS hose with an adapter. I even bought a new PS pressure hose, cut off the far end metric fitting, put a standard fitting that screws into the PS box and reflared it.

Stock Bronco Steering box fittings to AN:

5⁄8-18 Return (Aeroquip adapter FCM2964)
11⁄16-18 Pressure (Aeroquip adapter FCM2965)
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

A 37° flare type end fitting for flexible hose
The AN thread is a particular type of fitting used to connect flexible hoses and rigid metal tubing that carry fluid. It is a US military-derived specification that dates back to World War II and stems from a joint standard agreed upon by the Army and Navy, hence AN.

AN sizes range from -2 (dash two) to -32 in irregular steps, with each step equating to the OD (outside diameter) of the tubing in 1/16" increments. Therefore, a -8 AN size would be equal to 1/2" OD tube (8 × 1/16 = 1/2). However, this system does not specify the ID (inside diameter) of the tubing because the tube wall can vary in thickness. Each AN size also uses its own standard thread size.

AN fittings are a flare fitting, using 37° flared tubing to form a metal-metal seal. They are similar to other 37° flared fittings, such as JIC, which is their industrial variant. The two are interchangeable in theory, though this is typically not recommended due to the exacting specifications and demands of the aerospace industry. The differences between them relate to thread class and shape (how tight a fit the threads are), and the metals used.

Note that AN threads are different for bolts and fittings. In bolts the number refers to the diameter of the bolt whereas in a fitting it refers to the OD of the tube and thereby have different threads. For example, AN6 bolt has a 3/8-24 thread [1] whereas an AN6 fitting has a 9/16-18 thread.[2]

Note that 37° AN and 45° SAE fittings and tooling are not interchangeable due to the different flaring angles. Mixing them can cause leakage at the flare.

Originally parts were made compliant to the specification MIL-F-5509, but they are now controlled under SAE AS (Aerospace Standards) specifications AS4841 through AS4843 and AS4975.

 

[kat]

I am anal retentive, fixated on the small details... Not apologizing either. A little OCD probably too

I did not want kinks in the hoses, nor having them rub against the frame or engine. I like things to look like Factory.

If you put all three manufacturers upper hoses together, they are not identical. The Goodyear/Continental one fits best in MHO.

Yes I used a Gates lower bronco hose and the middle gets cut out of it. 90* section at the rad to metal pipe. Slightly bent section used to connect pipe to water pump.

Good looking engine bay....but that alternator looks like it needs some paint on it............(Im kinda smart ass....)

But seriously....thanks for the education on all that...when it comes to abbreviations I get confused....Local shop says they do custom hydro hoses so Im going to take the '98 hose and the '76 hose on the high pressure side and tell them to make it fit...=)...I haven't looked real hard at it but the return side of the pump is just fastened by hose clamps right??..So regular hose will do......

 

[904Bronco]

Good looking engine bay....but that alternator looks like it needs some paint on it............(Im kinda smart ass....)

But seriously....thanks for the education on all that...when it comes to abbreviations I get confused....Local shop says they do custom hydro hoses so Im going to take the '98 hose and the '76 hose on the high pressure side and tell them to make it fit...=)...I haven't looked real hard at it but the return side of the pump is just fastened by hose clamps right??..So regular hose will do......

Return side is low pressure, you use 3/8" (if I remember correctly) power steering/hydraulic rated hose, with hose clamps.

Alt is cleaner than it was, it is a newer reman unit that has some weathering ;D
This was supposed to be more of a budget build, re-use what still works. If it belly's up then I will get the pretty replacement.

 

[toddz69]

I know I will have to get the power steering hose made but what is "Lee AN fitting and AN hose"??


I was looking in buying the BC Bronco one..seems to have the end hoses included but your saying I can cut up my existing bottom hose and just use the tube?? Why didn't the 2001 7.3 super duty hose or the GTO hose work for you?? What do you mean the Gates / Dayco uppers of different??...Different than what??

Lee Manufacturing closed last year but has since re-opened under new ownership. I don't know if they still offer the fitting or not, but one of Lee's employees has remade them. I put more details in this thread:

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=258207

I'd recommend the BC lower tube over the WH one - I'm with Doug in the OCD department (although you'd never know it by looking under my hood). The BC tube has nice smooth mandrel bends rather than the 'muffler bends' in the WH tube. I tried the Super Duty hose once too and it didn't work on my setup either. So much variation with our trucks...

Todd Z.

 

[kat]

Return side is low pressure, you use 3/8" (if I remember correctly) power steering/hydraulic rated hose, with hose clamps.

Alt is cleaner than it was, it is a newer reman unit that has some weathering ;D
This was supposed to be more of a budget build, re-use what still works. If it belly's up then I will get the pretty replacement.

When I went to the junkyard for my Serpentine front end, I got the Alternator off of it...but I doubt it works...gonna take it to test it this week..if it doesn't work I guees I will have a core..While Im on the subject is the rewiring pretty straight forward?? I have the connector for the '98 alternator and only 2 wires are coming out...Im sure there is a thread in here on how to do it....

I'd recommend the BC lower tube over the WH one - I'm with Doug in the OCD department (although you'd never know it by looking under my hood). The BC tube has nice smooth mandrel bends rather than the 'muffler bends' in the WH tube. I tried the Super Duty hose once too and it didn't work on my setup either. So much variation with our trucks...

Todd Z.

I noticed in the pictures of both tubes the BC one did look a little "cleaner" and it comes with ends/clamps....so thanks for the clarification on that...gonna give BC my money this time....

 

[904Bronco]

When I went to the junkyard for my Serpentine front end, I got the Alternator off of it...but I doubt it works...gonna take it to test it this week..if it doesn't work I guees I will have a core..While Im on the subject is the rewiring pretty straight forward?? I have the connector for the '98 alternator and only 2 wires are coming out...Im sure there is a thread in here on how to do it....

Yes it is easy to do.

There are a hundred threads (or it seems like it) on how to wire a G3/G4 Ford Alt. Along with opinions on how to wire them. Some of the G3/G4 Alt plugs have two wires and some have three wires. I have enclosed the BCB illustration... and a few others.

You no longer need the stock voltage REG from the Bronco, as it is now internal in the G3/G4. All you need is the Green with red strip wire from the harness (Field wire) which supplies power when the vehicle is in run. (On the Centech harness the wire is Green) The remaining Stock wires on the Bronco Reg harness can be cut from the Reg plug and shrink tube can placed on the end to seal them. Then remove old Voltage reg.

3 wire Napa Alt plug #VRC441

The yellow white strip wire from the new Alt plug needs 12v. Some connect it to the Batt terminal on the Alt, others say to run it back to the starter relay or closer to the Battery. I chose the shorter route. The white black strip stator wire plugs back into the Alt, If... it has this. Not always the case. If not, you can place some shrink tube on the end and tie it back into the harness. Some might cut the wire off the plug altogether. If you Alt has a stator port then you will have to source the plug. (See picture below)

On the alt power cable I suggest #4 gauge. I have reused the Explorer power wire that has 2 fuseable links in it. And I have made my own power cable with a mega fuse installed, with parts from NAPA (150 amp Mega fuses, one for spare, a Buss holder, terminal ends), reusing the Ford cable from a 2000 Explorer. This is done by finding the appropriate crimp-able ends and then finishing crimp with solder and shrink tubing.

Or you can buy the pre-made power harnesses like the ones sold by BCB and WH. I am sure other Vendors sell them as well.

***( Note: in my picture below the green Field wire has a single weather pack connector on it and it is just resting on the starter relay. The stator wire has shrink tubing on the end and both will be covered later with some small convoluted wire wrap. The yellow-white wire is connected at the Batt terminal at the Alt. I was still working on my wiring when this picture was shot)


*****

 

[kat]

Yes it is easy to do.

There are a hundred threads (or it seems like it) on how to wire a G3/G4 Ford Alt. Along with opinions on how to wire them. Some of the G3/G4 Alt plugs have two wires and some have three wires. I have enclosed the BCB illustration... and a few others.

You no longer need the stock voltage REG from the Bronco, as it is now internal in the G3/G4. All you need is the Green with red strip wire from the harness (Field wire) which supplies power when the vehicle is in run. (On the Centech harness the wire is Green) The remaining Stock wires on the Bronco Reg harness can be cut from the Reg plug and shrink tube can placed on the end to seal them. Then remove old Voltage reg.

3 wire Napa Alt plug #VRC441

The yellow white strip wire from the new Alt plug needs 12v. Some connect it to the Batt terminal on the Alt, others say to run it back to the starter relay or closer to the Battery. I chose the shorter route. The white black strip stator wire plugs back into the Alt, If... it has this. Not always the case. If not, you can place some shrink tube on the end and tie it back into the harness. Some might cut the wire off the plug altogether. If you Alt has a stator port then you will have to source the plug. (See picture below)

On the alt power cable I suggest #4 gauge. I have reused the Explorer power wire that has 2 fuseable links in it. And I have made my own power cable with a mega fuse installed, with parts from NAPA (150 amp Mega fuses, one for spare, a Buss holder, terminal ends), reusing the Ford cable from a 2000 Explorer. This is done by finding the appropriate crimp-able ends and then finishing crimp with solder and shrink tubing.

Or you can buy the pre-made power harnesses like the ones sold by BCB and WH. I am sure other Vendors sell them as well.

***( Note: in my picture below the green Field wire has a single weather pack connector on it and it is just resting on the starter relay. The stator wire has shrink tubing on the end and both will be covered later with some small convoluted wire wrap. The yellow-white wire is connected at the Batt terminal at the Alt. I was still working on my wiring when this picture was shot)


*****

Thanks for the info...I have read things about a "megafuse". That clears it up. Ill come back to this once I get ready for the swap. BC lower tube came in today, Carter electric fuel pump should be here by the end of the week. The Holidays got me set back a little and might have to wait till next pay check until I get the Alternator.....but we will see... Thanks again

 

[needabronco]

I use the stock Bronco upper hose, with a 1" body lift you give the hose a slight twist and tighten down the clamps and it's been that way for 8 years. With a larger body lift it might still work and have plenty of fan clearance.

 

[kat]

I use the stock Bronco upper hose, with a 1" body lift you give the hose a slight twist and tighten down the clamps and it's been that way for 8 years. With a larger body lift it might still work and have plenty of fan clearance.

So that is where the problem will come from...fan clearance?? I have a 3" body lift on mine...

 

[kat]

I use the stock Bronco upper hose, with a 1" body lift you give the hose a slight twist and tighten down the clamps and it's been that way for 8 years. With a larger body lift it might still work and have plenty of fan clearance.

I was under my hood today and it hit me....my thermostat housing is at a 45 degree angle...and it appears everyone has one that is at 90 degree...Im assuming if I go back to my Mercury that I took all my stuff off the housing on it will work??? Or do I need something different..

 

[904Bronco]

I was under my hood today and it hit me....my thermostat housing is at a 45 degree angle...and it appears everyone has one that is at 90 degree...Im assuming if I go back to my Mercury that I took all my stuff off the housing on it will work??? Or do I need something different..

The 45* T-stat housing might work, but it will put the hose closer to the fan...

 

[kat]

The 45* T-stat housing might work, but it will put the hose closer to the fan...

Its pretty close to my fan as it is....