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Please help with part repair

JT

Full Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2012
Messages
159
Part: hot water heater and air conditioner elbow

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While disassembling this part for restoration I didn't realize I was deforming the threads on the bottom that screw into the front of the intake manifold.

Can this be repaired?

I thought about driving a plumb-bob or some other type of tapered metal in the hole to get it back to round and the recutting the threads.

Another thought would be to cut the threaded portion completely off and then tap the body and then insert a threaded tube back in.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks,

JT
 

nickgp

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 17, 2010
Messages
1,024
Save the trouble. Toss it on the trash. Go to NAPA and get a suitable replacement. You can go thru their book to find one. If you try to save this one, after all the work, it more than likely will fail.
 
OP
OP
JT

JT

Full Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2012
Messages
159
I did a search online at NAPA and didn't find anything. I also need the two pressure vacuum switches.

JT
 

Quick & Dirty

Sr. Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2004
Messages
857
How solid is the hex part? Maybe you can cut off the threads, and drill/tap it for matching pipe thread and use a pipe nipple.

Could be that's what it is already. Are the threads actually part of the hex? or a nipple threaded into the hex?
 
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OP
JT

JT

Full Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2012
Messages
159
How solid is the hex part? Maybe you can cut off the threads, and drill/tap it for matching pipe thread and use a pipe nipple.

Could be that's what it is already. Are the threads actually part of the hex? or a nipple threaded into the hex?

Based on my inspection, the threads are cut into the hex. The hex is pretty solid. if push comes to shove I'll just it off, drill and tap the hex portion and insert a threaded tube.

UGH!
 

Blue Bastard

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 14, 2012
Messages
2,161
Glad to see you are back at it. The offer is still open for help if you ever need it. Actually I just want to snoop around your project.

Beau
 
OP
OP
JT

JT

Full Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2012
Messages
159
Glad to see you are back at it. The offer is still open for help if you ever need it. Actually I just want to snoop around your project.

Beau

Hey! Henry told me you sold yours and bought another. I'm working on mine all day today if you want to come by. I'll PM you my phone number.

JT
 

tasker

Contributor
all knowing of nothing
Joined
Jun 2, 2006
Messages
21,699
Loc.
NH
what's across from the ported switch?
 
OP
OP
JT

JT

Full Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2012
Messages
159
what's across from the ported switch?

It's another ported vacuum switch that was broken off by P.O. I have a master parts catalog on .pdf and the part in the picture shows two ported switches...a 2 valve on one side and a 3 valve on the other.

JT
 
OP
OP
JT

JT

Full Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2012
Messages
159
Success!

Took a plumb bob and got it concentric and then ran a 3/8 NPT die over it to clean up the threads. My sandblaster is awesome too!

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JT
 
Last edited:

Rustytruck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
10,872
Use loctite 565 pipe sealant on those threads it will seal well on miss shaped threads without having to tighten the crap out of it.
 
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OP
JT

JT

Full Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2012
Messages
159
Thanks for the tip. I was wondering what to use. I assume I can use the same stuff on the temp sensor too?
 

Rustytruck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
10,872
Yes just cant use on electrical sensors that ground through the fittings like water temperature guage or oil pressure sensors.
 

Ovalis

Sr. Member
Joined
Jan 19, 2011
Messages
405
Loc.
Los Angeles
Are you sure it's a 2 port switch & 3 port switch that go on there?

I think they're both a 2 port switch. One controls the on/off of the EGR valve, and the other one controls the on/off of the vacuum activated valve below the drivers side exhaust manifold.
 
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JT

JT

Full Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2012
Messages
159
Are you sure it's a 2 port switch & 3 port switch that go on there?

I think they're both a 2 port switch. One controls the on/off of the EGR valve, and the other one controls the on/off of the vacuum activated valve below the drivers side exhaust manifold.

Ovalis,

No, I'm not completely sure. The diagram in the master catalog attached shows a 3 port switch, but one of the ports doesn't go anywhere. The 3 port switch is a different part number than the dual port switch.

Don't know why they would indicate a 3 port switch, unless it was just to consolidate engine manufacture to keep options down. That way if another vehicle using the 302 in '75 needed a 3 port switch, it would already be there.

I wonder if I could use the same 2 port switch in both places?

Any suggestions you have would be much appreciated.

Thanks,

JT
 

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Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
37,065
Thanks for the tip. I was wondering what to use. I assume I can use the same stuff on the temp sensor too?

The paste is fine for electrical sensors. The threads will cut through it and make for a good ground. The Teflon tape is where you run into insulating problems. It can build up enough that it seals but the metals don't touch and the sensor has no ground.
 
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