Roll Cage Options? Lets see some pics

[Apogee]

The PipeMaster tools work well for http://www.pipemastertools.com/transferring funky tubing coping angles as well.

 

[SoCal68Bronco]

Here's a couple more pics of mine. You can see how the tubing is routed behind the dash. I did have to remove the ash tray and shift the grill and glove box over to make room for the passenger side bar to fit.

 

[crutch]

Newbie here restoring my first Bronco and been looking for a roll cage as well. I was wondering if there are any good options without the front bars that connect to the driver and passenger floor? Anyone secured a 4 point rear family cage to the windshield without the front bars going to the floor?

The vehicle will be used primarily for the beach and I was hoping to avoid the beefy 8 point taking up the space in the front cab. Any recommendations?

 

[tankhunter]

Lots of nice cages in this thread but I really want to see how everybody is tying them to the frame

 

[mattt]

Bringing this thread back up to ask a follow up question to those who have run the tubing thru the dash for the A pillar. Is there anyone who has spaced the dash off the cowl at the top of the dash? I ask because as I'm stretching the slot in the dash down to accommodate the tubing passing thru the dash, I'm not sure that there will be enough room to not have to get into the glove box door on the face of the dash. As an example, look at post #62 in this thread and see how the slots in the dash extend very far down the dash. If the glove box door is in stock position, that would not work. As a comparison, look at post #47, and SC74's "high and tight" dash slots that appear they would not interfere with a glove box door in stock position.

I am using 1.75" tubing and the A pillar tubing is fairly snug to the windshield frame, spaced off the frame/cowl just 1/2". I placed it like this to keep the slot in the dash as high and tight as possible, but it's getting close. One possible solution is to space the top of the dash off the cowl by a small amount instead of bolting it as it was factory. I'm specifically talking about the small mounting ears on each side of the dash that uses the small and short hex head bolt.

Has anyone spaced the top of the dash off to accommodate the A pillar passing thru and not having to slot the dash too far down?

Any downside to spacing the top of the dash off the factory mount? I'm sure there is something that I'm just not thinking of. I'm thinking spacing max 1/2".

 

[rcmbronc]

I dont know what would happen if you spaced the dash. Think it might look kind of wierd with the gap. I moved the glove box door over to stay out of the bar.

 

[xcntrk]

Lots of nice cages in this thread but I really want to see how everybody is tying them to the frame

Like this:

 

[Blue Bastard]

And this

 

[mnido]

Here is mine, built right here in San Diego !

 

[ObscureMachine]

Here is mine, built right here in San Diego !

Does your bronco have a roll cage too, or just your trailer?

 

[ObscureMachine]

Here is D and C extreme's basic kit. It's been modified to make it fit. DandC are suppose to be under new ownership.

What seats are those?

 

[mnido]

Does your bronco have a roll cage too, or just your trailer?

My trailer is a Bronco silly..

 

[tommyg]

Bronco Bob here as well. Put one in my past Bronco and it was a great product.

- F

Really like the look of the Bronco Bob cage, but not a fan of the bar across the windshield. Has anyone installed one without this piece?

 

[jmangi62]

A couple more pics of mine,out of the powdercoat shop.

 

[JefeAZ]

8 point family cage hand built by Mike Dyster aka greaseball and his son. 3 different sizes of tubing, spaced for the wiper motor and powdercoated silver. Only downside is the hard top wont fit. Almost overbuilt...

 

[blackbeauty]

What seats are those?

When I bought them a few years ago, they were Bestop Super Seats. Now, they are sold as Smittybilt Contour Sport or Rugged Ridge Super Seat. If I were going to buy now, I would go with the Bestop Pro Trailmax II.

 

[mattt]

Bringing this thread back up to ask a follow up question to those who have run the tubing thru the dash for the A pillar. Is there anyone who has spaced the dash off the cowl at the top of the dash? I ask because as I'm stretching the slot in the dash down to accommodate the tubing passing thru the dash, I'm not sure that there will be enough room to not have to get into the glove box door on the face of the dash. As an example, look at post #62 in this thread and see how the slots in the dash extend very far down the dash. If the glove box door is in stock position, that would not work. As a comparison, look at post #47, and SC74's "high and tight" dash slots that appear they would not interfere with a glove box door in stock position.

I am using 1.75" tubing and the A pillar tubing is fairly snug to the windshield frame, spaced off the frame/cowl just 1/2". I placed it like this to keep the slot in the dash as high and tight as possible, but it's getting close. One possible solution is to space the top of the dash off the cowl by a small amount instead of bolting it as it was factory. I'm specifically talking about the small mounting ears on each side of the dash that uses the small and short hex head bolt.

Has anyone spaced the top of the dash off to accommodate the A pillar passing thru and not having to slot the dash too far down?

Any downside to spacing the top of the dash off the factory mount? I'm sure there is something that I'm just not thinking of. I'm thinking spacing max 1/2".

Still getting after this and took two pictures to show what I have going on at the dash, A pillar area. I'm not nuts about spacing the top of the dash off the cowl, windshield frame area, but I may have no choice if I leave the glovebox in stock location.

Currently the A tube is spaced off the windshield frame by 1/2", the 2 wood spacers are paint sticks(each one 1/4" thick). As can be seen the slot in the dash can't go any lower on pass. side without getting into the glovebox face on the dash. The second pic shows the little ear tab bracket for the dash that is mostly covered by door gasket when everything is assembled. That ear tab bracket is about 3/8" away from where it should be if the dash were to go in factory position. I'd rather keep the A tube at 1/2" away from the windshield frame to avoid rattle, but that's keeping the dash pushed out at the top. The A pillar tube is set at & mimicking the angle of the windshield frame lean back itself.

I'm looking for opinions or been there done that, with having the top of the dash spaced off that 3/8" or less.

I have seen one cage here on Classic with A pillar pass thru and a glove box in factory location. I'm still not positive how he pulled it off, but it has been done.

Suggestions, critiques welcomed. Thanks.

 

[xcntrk]

Here's the $200 dollar fix to your problem:

 

[RPM289]

Here is one custom built.

 

[mattt]

Here's the $200 dollar fix to your problem:

Yeah, I considered that option a while back but the BC dash just wasn't enough "Bronco" dash for me so I'm reworking the factory dash.

Got it done today....had to reduce to 1/4" the space between the A pillar tube and the windshield frame. Cage is in the home stretch now with just some finish welding, gusseting, and seat mounts left to do.