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Spindle Bearing/seal kit, which order for install?

vtboy51

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Can someone confirm the order I've got the new parts in is correct? Starting with
1) the bearing that is inside the spindle (not shown in pic)
2) spindle seal
3) small rubber washer
4) plastic washer
5) rubber seal

The other questions is when I tore things apart, I found a metal washer slide all the way down the axle shaft, closest to the u-joint, is this being replaced by the plastic washer?
 

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Broncobowsher

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Looks right

#4, that washer, it has a chamfer. The chamfer goes toward the U-joint and the flat side toward the hub. I can't see in the picture exactly which way you have it but it looks like it may be backwards.
 

Pa PITT

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... THOSE bearings are... SBK1A... BCA .
Now I used to be an old parts man from 1967 until 1995 Then I've be in other parts business .. SO if you can search my very old post on these Disk brake parts I've posted them from memory for years . I think I joined in about 2004 So I think into my time about 2 years before I learned how to post up .
.................
..... In my earlier post I knew the dana numbers of the spindles .. Something like 7 numbers . 702858X.. CLOSE..
.. So the inner spindle bearing is SBK1A.
BIG SEAL IS 4250S
I ''think'' the bearing are A37 & A45.
You use the Spindle backing plate from a chevy 1/2 pick up or the Blazer 1973 1/2 ..74.. & 74 1/2 & the chevy 4x4 calipers for those years .
... & Use the D52 Brake Pads. So but I prefer the cheapest pads you can find.
The Rotors are from 1980+ Ford pick up 1/2 4x4...
... The outer Spindle stub shaft will work from the chevy .
.. Ford used to only sell their stub with the inner axle .
... OH and the Caliper is from the chevy 4x4 .. Seems like the number is close to ..
A1 PRODUCT ..45-4027 4026..or.. 4028
... & You use the Chevy 4x4 brake hose .. & it'll screw right onto your break line come down the frame.
 

DirtDonk

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2) spindle seal
3) small rubber washer


Both of those are spindle seals. You only use the first one (#2) if your spindle originally had one. If not sure, post up a pic of the back of your spindle and we should be able to tell from here.
In theory at least!

You might be able to use both I suppose, but I was under the impression that you used only one or the other. Most of the ones I've seen only use the small one, but apparently quite a few years had that larger, press-in type in place.
Maybe someone with that style can tell you if both are used.

The other questions is when I tore things apart, I found a metal washer slide all the way down the axle shaft, closest to the u-joint, is this being replaced by the plastic washer?

Yes. The originals were bronze or something similar. They're basically a thrust washer, and the plastic one replaces it unless you want to reuse the old ones. They don't really wear out that often, but it's up to you at that point. If in doubt you could measure the thickness to see if they're still the same.

Paul
 

DirtDonk

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Do I pack the inside of the spindle seal with grease?

You don't necessarily have to pack the inside of the seal area, but the spindle itself and certainly the bearing area should be packed.
The more grease the better at keeping moisture out in the long term. A bunch will splooge out when you install the spindle, but that can then be used to re-pack the bearings and/or the hub's inner cavity surfaces.

Paul
 
OP
OP
vtboy51

vtboy51

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Between this site, speaking with Jeff's, and some long stares at the pile of parts, I'm getting closer to figuring this out. My first problem was I didn't press the bearing far enough into the spindle, once I did, I could fit the rubber washer (#2) right tight against the bearing. Per DirtDonk's advice I'll reuse the original brass thrust washer instead of using the new one supplied (#3), and this will slide onto the axle shaft all the way down towards the u-joint. My last questions is regarding the large rubber gasket thingy (#4), does this go inside the spindle seal (#1) (on the bearing side)? Or does it go on the other side?
 

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DirtDonk

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I'm 99% sure that if you use #1, you do NOT use #4.
I've always called it the "bellows" seal, and it appears you have it oriented the same way I've always installed them.
But none of the front ends I've worked on has ever had the press-in seal #1 to mess with, which is why I'm not 100% sure about things.

But it's my understanding that they don't work together and will make things too tight. But also the need for #4 is pretty much negated by the use of #1.
So it still goes back to what spindle you have. Can you post a pic of the back side of the spindle?

And yeah, for some reason it's pretty common to not press the bearings in all the way. It just goes all the way down to the seat where it can't go any farther, pretty much like any bearing or seal install into a pocket. Seat it all the way.

Paul
 
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vtboy51

vtboy51

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I just took a look at Tom's site (I bought from Jeff's), and they ask if bronco has "slingers" or not, and this determines which seals they ship. I guess Jeff's just sends the seals that cover both scenarios. I don't have a pic of my spindle, but I definitely had seal #1 in place when I took things apart, and I do have the slingers on my axle. So I will discard #4. Thanks everyone.

I'm 99% sure that if you use #1, you do NOT use #4.
I've always called it the "bellows" seal, and it appears you have it oriented the same way I've always installed them.
But none of the front ends I've worked on has ever had the press-in seal #1 to mess with, which is why I'm not 100% sure about things.

But it's my understanding that they don't work together and will make things too tight. But also the need for #4 is pretty much negated by the use of #1.
So it still goes back to what spindle you have. Can you post a pic of the back side of the spindle?

And yeah, for some reason it's pretty common to not press the bearings in all the way. It just goes all the way down to the seat where it can't go any farther, pretty much like any bearing or seal install into a pocket. Seat it all the way.

Paul
 

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Rustytruck

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I believe #1 was used on the early Dana 30 spindles and does not go with #4. #4 goes with the Dana 44 spindles and maybe some late Dana 30 spindles and the thick side of that seal sits on the step on the stub axle where the slinger is. It pushes up against the back face of the spindle to keep dirt out. If you saw the back side of a Dana 44 spindle and the early Dana 30 axle you would easily see the difference between the 2.
 

DirtDonk

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I'm with Rusty. I've heard that the slingers were on this or that year, and that the press-in seals were used this year or that as well, but can tell you that this rule probably only covers Broncos some of the time.
My own 44 has the slingers and used #4 from the factory with no #1 or recesses in the spindles for them. And I've seen the same scenario on factory '72's that I worked on back when they were new. But I think '72 is supposed to be after the change anyway, so that could be normal.
Or whatever passes for "normal" on an EB anyway! Likely changed near the end of the run of 30's, but someone got their years wrong when entering the data for the change.

Like so many other things on Broncos, maybe having it, or not, was a transition thing.

My feeling is that if the new spindle is designed to accept the press-in seal, AND the axle shaft fits into it, the press-in seal should be used and the bellows/V-seal left out. If the spindles you're using don't have the deeper recessed area for the press-in seal, use the V-seal and donate the #1 press-in seal to a worthy cause.

Paul
 

.94 OR

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Right from Wild Horses site:

Spindles
There are 3 different spindles that were used from 66-77. All Bronco Dana 30's and 71-72 1/2 Dana 44's use a spindle with the spindle/outer axle seal pressed into the back of it. These have 6 bolt holes. The 72 1/2-75's do not have the spindle/outer axle seal pressed into the back. It is located on the outer axle seal flange which is pressed onto the outer axle itself. These also have 6 bolt holes. The 76-77 disc brake spindle is easily identified by its 5 bolt holes. All new spindles come with spindle bearings.

I have a '71 that a PO must have destroyed the passenger side axle since it has a metal slinger from a 72.5/newer axle. I was confused thinking I needed it on both sides. I might knock it off since I don't need it and it is in rough shape.

Update: I ordered 2 slingers thinking I like the idea of a somewhat sturdy barrier to keep large crap from getting to the seal/bearing. Weird part is, the stub shaft that has the slinger is smaller diameter than the side without the slinger. The slinger I ordered fits on the one that did not have one to begin with. Now I'm not sure what the heck I have going on for parts. It appears that a PO had a rowdy time in the front end and had to replace parts at some time (I bought it in '89).
 
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ba123

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I know I’m digging up another old thread, but to add light to this and ask a question…

On my ‘76, I ONLY have a slinger and #4. Not sure if I should have 2 or 3, but def not #1 and none of those were on my Dana 44 with stock disc before.

My prob now, maybe someone can help. I thought I knew hot to put this thing back together, I have the diagram, and i waited as long as I thought I should before taking the other side apart…but maybe I should’ve waited unt8 I was putting this side back together, damn!

Anyone? Is this dumb diagram wrong and the caliper bracket and dust shield goes behind the spindle?
1684202798271.png


This is driving me nuts and can’t find anything anywhere showing it.
 

jamesroney

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I know I’m digging up another old thread, but to add light to this and ask a question…

On my ‘76, I ONLY have a slinger and #4. Not sure if I should have 2 or 3, but def not #1 and none of those were on my Dana 44 with stock disc before.

My prob now, maybe someone can help. I thought I knew hot to put this thing back together, I have the diagram, and i waited as long as I thought I should before taking the other side apart…but maybe I should’ve waited unt8 I was putting this side back together, damn!

Anyone? Is this dumb diagram wrong and the caliper bracket and dust shield goes behind the spindle?

This is driving me nuts and can’t find anything anywhere showing it.
HUH? What are you working on? You say 76. Are you saying that you have a 1976 Ford Bronco Dana 44 front axle with factory Bendix Disc brakes, and five (5) studs in the knuckle?

If so, then YES. The dust shield and the caliper mount go behind the spindle. OR, stated differently, the 5 NUTS that hold on the spindle will TOUCH the spindle itself.
Yes, the dumb diagram is not applicable to your axle.

If you have the factory stub axle, it will have a BELLOWS, (#4), and a inner SEAL, (#2) and a THRUST WASHER (#3).

It does not help that the picture with the numbers on it show the inner lip seal installed backwards.

You do not have a #1 in your spindle.

If you have any more questions, just type an ampersand in front of my username, and (@jamesroney) and I will get notified. Or just text me.

James.
 

FordBronc

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That above diagram is a little confusing. Duel piston disk brake caliper is for a 3/4 ton truck. Rotor has 5 lug nuts for 1/2 ton F100, F150 and Bronco. Pic only has 4 bolts to hold on the spindle. Bronco has 5. Free running lock out hub assembly AFAIK is for 3/4 ton truck only. But even my diagram shows the same.
 

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ba123

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Thanks, I test fit it that way and worked perfectly.
 

Oldtimer

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77 factory disc brakes.

Knuckle, Caliper bracket, Dust shield, Spindle, (washer added), Nut
2023-05-15_234521.jpg


Slinger, #4, #3, #2
2023-05-15_234228.jpg


And apparently #2 (inner seal) is also backwards in my assembly.
It is there to keep grease in, not water out?

@jamesroney, were even now, I get to take my spindles off and fix the inner seals.
 

ba123

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Yeah, so before, my spindle bearings were right on the edge, and the only thing there was one seal that goes over the slinger but after seeing more pics, I knocked the new bearing further in and used all the seals. I messed with which way that litttle seal should go and I put the flat side out, flared side in, which seemed correct to me…but prob doesn’t even matter. I mean it wasn’t even there before.
 

jamesroney

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Yeah, so before, my spindle bearings were right on the edge, and the only thing there was one seal that goes over the slinger but after seeing more pics, I knocked the new bearing further in and used all the seals. I messed with which way that litttle seal should go and I put the flat side out, flared side in, which seemed correct to me…but prob doesn’t even matter. I mean it wasn’t even there before.
You did it right. It is a lip seal, and it's primary function is to keep the grease from leaking out. So the flared side goes in. The picture from @Oldtimer is backwards. If you install the seal into the housing bore first, and then slide the spindle onto the stub shaft, it all stays together and doesn't fall out.

And no, it doesn't seem to matter. The caged needle bearing doesn't hold enough grease to matter. And the bearing only spins when it is in 4WD.
 

ba123

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You did it right. It is a lip seal, and it's primary function is to keep the grease from leaking out. So the flared side goes in. The picture from @Oldtimer is backwards. If you install the seal into the housing bore first, and then slide the spindle onto the stub shaft, it all stays together and doesn't fall out.

And no, it doesn't seem to matter. The caged needle bearing doesn't hold enough grease to matter. And the bearing only spins when it is in 4WD.
Cool, thanks for confirming. I saw a video after all this and it showed the guy putting it in the other way but yeah, that doesn't make sense.

Thanks again!

And pretty lame that this shop manual would be incorrect. And this section is clear:
1684249920755.png


Although it doesn't even show the right caliper bracket, but the one that @FordBronc posted does...what is that page you posted out of?
 
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