Stop switch & turn signal electrical gremlins

[Monster Mike]

2 separate problems or are they connected? Lately I can barely get out of the driveway w/o blowing a fuse. The p.o. Wired the electric fuel pump into the same circuit as the turn signals.

So I pulled the pump off that circuit then turned the turn signals on & aimed my temp gun at the fuse inside the glove box. Sure enough the fuse heated up to 160 F before I shut the turn signal off. I tested left & right, same results.

I also noticed my break lights would not light up!? I jumped the switch that plugs into the stop switch & the breaks lit up. Ordered a new stop switch & moved on.

Went to test the hazards & they don't work now?

Here's what I'm wondering, is the little box that the hazard switch goes into capable of shorting out or over heating the break stop switch & the turn signals?

Could that hazard box with the 6 wires attached to the top be causing all of my electrical gremlins?

 

[jw0747]

find the connector where the turn signal wires coming out of the steering column connect to the wires that continue on to the various lights. should be pushed somewhere up into the inside of dash right below the steering column. pull the connector apart and make certain that all the male ends haven't been pushed down in the connector where they can't make good contact with the female ends in the other half of the connector. if some of the long male ends have been pushed down grab them with needle nose pliers and pull them up so good contact is made..

 

[Viperwolf1]

Haz box with 6 wires? What year are you working on?

You have too much resistance in the fusebox terminals. That causes the heat in fuse #2 and melts the solder connecting the fuse to the caps.

Hazard circuit is on fuse #5 and is not related to the brake sw failure. Check the fuse terminals and try replacing the hazard flasher. It's the one with red-white and white-red wires.

 

[Monster Mike]

The haz box I'm referring to is behind the steering wheel. Pull the wheel & on the right where you pull on the tab to engage the hazards. On the top side of that switch 6 wires are attached. Not sure if that junction can affect my turn signals & break lights.

I put a new stop switch in now the break lights come on.

The hazards still don't work :-( ill replace the fuse but it looks fine & has power on both ends

How do I reduce resistance in fuse #2?

 

[Viperwolf1]

The haz box I'm referring to is behind the steering wheel. Pull the wheel & on the right where you pull on the tab to engage the hazards. On the top side of that switch 6 wires are attached. Not sure if that junction can affect my turn signals & break lights.

I put a new stop switch in now the break lights come on.

The hazards still don't work :-( ill replace the fuse but it looks fine & has power on both ends

How do I reduce resistance in fuse #2?

That box is the hazard switch. When it's on it connects both brake lights with both front turn signals and the hazard flasher. It's not causing a problem.

Try replacing the hazard flasher. You can swap it with the turn flasher.

Clean the corrosion from the fuse terminals.

 

[Monster Mike]

alright, I did the switcharoo on the flashers already, ill scrape the corrosion off the fuse terminals too.

On a side note I'm installing a fuel relay & I want to connect to an ignition power source. I only want 12v when the key is in the run position. Any suggestions?

Btw are you saying its highly unlikely the hazard switch is malfunctioning or completely dead?

The reason I ask is because the po had the fuel pump wired into the same circuit that drew power off that fuse that the turn signals were on. Could that extra power draw kill that hazard switch over time?

 

[Steve83]

The best circuit to tap for the fuel pump relay is 904 LG/R at the ig.sw. or voltage regulator, but it's spliced to several others which are equally useable, depending on where you choose to mount the relay. Refer to the diagram above.

It's not likely that the PO's wiring damaged the hazard switch in any way.

With the switch pulled out (ON), test the voltage of all the hazard wires and post your results.

 

[Monster Mike]

voila! Hazards work! Corroded fuse terminal on #5

Ok 904 green/red coming out of the back of the ignition switch is ok to splice into?

 

[Monster Mike]

Ok splice done, thx guys.

 

[Steve83]

For a relay, yes. Not for the pump power itself. Start the pump circuit with a new fuse near the battery or starter relay. It wouldn't hurt to start the relay circuit with a fuse, either (3A is plenty).

 

[Monster Mike]

Cool, just wired in a painless fuel relay. works great!

 

[Monster Mike]

Alright, the original problem still exists. When im driving down the road & hit the breaks my ampmeter gauge will fluctuate as if my hazards are activated. Then the wires that come out of the column start heating up passed 170 F

Of course as this is going on if I activate the turn signal the fuse in terminal #2 blows almost instantly.

This problem just developed over the weekend, I've been working on the bronco all weekend but don't recall working under the dash.

I'm guessing I pinched a wire somewhere?

 

[Monster Mike]

Never mind, pinched trailer wiring

 

[Steve83]

999/1000 truck taillight problems come from that! ;D

 

[Monster Mike]

Ha ha

 

[Steve83]

Here's how I'd hook up that relay:

 

[Monster Mike]

Yep that's how I wired mine in