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The ZF install begins

gunnibronco

Sr. Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2008
Messages
504
Loc.
Gardnerville, NV
Here is a tech article from Hurst about hydraulic clutches that recommends a stop.

http://www.hurst-drivelines.com/files/Clutch_Linkage_Installation_Tips.pdf

I welded a simple piece of angle iron with a nut/bolt to the pedal near the old mechanical linkage hole. The bolt head hits the cowl above the pedal and will give you some adjustment. I haven't run mine yet, but I've bled the slave cylinder and everything seems to work ok. I haven't made any adjustments yet.

 
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Joe473

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2012
Messages
954
I thought about this when I did mine but is there a stroke listed for stock master cylinders somewhere? I see aftermarket ones with that info but even bore size info on stock ones is hard to come by.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
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barronj

barronj

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 6, 2009
Messages
1,859
Thanks. I'll post a pic of page 6 of that article for future reference:

Clutch_Linkage_Installation_Tips_zpsbop9jkt7.jpg
 

Joe473

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2012
Messages
954
Good info, on the M5R2. There is an opening where you can watch the slave cylinder while you have a friend slowly depress clutch. If ZF has same thing take a look.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
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barronj

barronj

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Jun 6, 2009
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1,859
It's finally in for good (fingers crossed), and it drives incredibly well. I used valvoline synthetic to fill the transmission and it rattles for just a second when you take it out of gear, otherwise it's quiet.

I take off in 2nd gear (4.11 gears and 33" tires) and cruises easily on the highway.

The final solution for the clutch hose that kept popping out was to pull the female extension out of the slave cylinder and put the clutch hose directly in to that port and secure it with a barrel pin. I did have to modify the slave base at the port to get it to accept the hose (a new hose with the same fittings (same as the one that goes in to the master cylinder) on both ends). Because the depth of the female port on the slave cylinder was too deep for the hose to just plug and play, I used a large diameter step bit to enlarge the opening at the outer edge of the SC to allow the hose to get far enough in to the SC to seat properly and let the barrel pin go down.
 
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barronj

barronj

Bronco Guru
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Jun 6, 2009
Messages
1,859
I drive it almost every day now, something I've never been comfortable doing. The 5 speed needs to be a priority on your list.
 

jimmyk

Contributor
Full Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2013
Messages
244
Sounds like a lot of work with a lot of reward. I have a ZF to install in mine, glad to hear you say how smooth it is, as that was one of my concerns. I bought the entire adapter kit for mine, so hopefully I wont have the same issues as you, but now I will rethink the clutch pedal stop to prevent over-travel. Thanks for the write up!
 

jimmyk

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Nov 12, 2013
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244
I also have the same setup as you; 4.11 and plan on 33's but will be with a exploder 5.0
 
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barronj

barronj

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Jun 6, 2009
Messages
1,859
If I didn't include it in my write up, I had to take the shifter off (the 4 allen head bolts) every time I removed or installed the ZF. I'd stuff a clean shop rag in the shifter hole after pulling it out. With a 2" body lift, this might not be necessary, but with a 1", for me, it was.
 

jimmyk

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Nov 12, 2013
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244
Im going to attemp mine without a body lift. I had it and the dana 20 in already to mark the hokes for the twin stick before sending it off for bodywork and paint. Guessing the real test will be installing with the engine. I have an ild hurat 3 speed shifter that i am going to turn upside down and use witb mine. Hopefully no dash contact
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
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Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,964
Good luck. I'm thinking you should have had the engine for any trans mockup, but if you say it looks close, go for it.
Personally I can't see it fitting at all without taking just about the entire top of the tunnel off and extending it up a bit. But then again, I've never tried it either, so can't say "you can't" with any conviction.

Make sure to post up the details. And pics of the new paint too of course!

Paul
 

hankjr

Contributor
Bronco Guru
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May 11, 2013
Messages
1,761
One thing to consider w/o body lift is access to bell housing bolts. Might be really elbow bendy to get to those bolts with no BL

Hank
 
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barronj

barronj

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Jun 6, 2009
Messages
1,859
Bump

Just updated pics from Imgur since photobucket no workie

And BC Broncos is still a pain in the neck.
 
Joined
Nov 9, 2020
Messages
1
You said one of the mounting ears was broke off on your transmission, and I saw in one of the photos (when you were pressing the spud shaft with the jack and your frame...nice improvise btw) it looked like you welded a mounting bracket to the tail housing. I have the same problem (broke mounting ear) and am wondering how well your weld job is holding? My question is do I weld up something on there or buy a new tail housing?
 
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