Tie Rod Over

[flousberg]

I am replacing my front axle bushings. While I have the axle out, would like to do TRO. I have Dana 44 with F150 knuckles. I currently run stock draglink under with bushings, no track bar drop or riser, drop pitman arm. 3.5” lift. No bump steer. I will need to ream and add bushings I know this. I assume I will go back to stick Pittman arm. I think that might get everything parallel again but worried about drag link hitting Trac bar or stud.

 

[Bruners4]

TRO will require 17" wheels to clear the new tie rod position.

 

[Yeller]

TRO will require 17" wheels to clear the new tie rod position.

this would be news to me unless you have 76-77 Bronco knuckles, OP has F150 knuckles, unless he has over 4.5" of backspacing it should not be an issue.

 

[flousberg]

I have 4” back spacing with 1.5” spacers. Not an issue. Real question is on the Trac bar and vendors.

 

[DirtDonk]

You’ll either have to wait for someone with the F150 knuckles (and TRO) to chime in, or kind of figure it in yourself with tape measure and eyeball.
But in most instances, you are going to run into interference with the lower bolt with a tierod-over swap.
Multiple solutions have been tried over the years. All successful so far.
Cut the bolt down and use a low profile lock nut, or use a track bar riser to get the bolt completely out of the way, are the two most common.
The riser can actually come in handy with parallelism too, depending upon what linkage you decide on.

Where are you on that aspect?
What size tires, and do you plan to go off road with the Bronco?

 

[Yeller]

TRO with a track bar riser and a stock pitman arm will give you the best driving experience on a lifted bronco. As for the riser Wild Horses would be my go to. You shouldn't have any interference issues, other than maybe needing to trim the bracket to not hit the frame at full compression, or lower the bump stop to accommodate. Sometimes we see draglink interference with the end of the stud where the drag link goes through the tie rod, in every case of that the tie rod is not clocked correctly the head of the drag link should be pointed at the bottom of the radiator, not parallel to the ground. If it still had contact the info from DirtDonk is spot on.

 

[flousberg]

I have 35s, 3.5” lift. 2” BL for my 351EFI. I have ran this for 24 years. Not heavy rock crawling but have the capability. Arbs front and rear. Just hate body damage.

 

[flousberg]

I need to get tie rod and draglink and either use 1 ton ends or heims. Any recommendation on vendor?

 

[Yeller]

WH has several options, all of which I believe would meet your needs. WH steering linkage upgrades

One of my personal requirements, is the drag link and tie rod connection points must be in factory locations. altering those potentially increases the odds of bump steer. I rarely put hiem steering on anything anymore, it is almost always tapered rod ends and factory style components. There are some very nice upgraded units available now that are a nice improvement in strength without the added complication of full custom parts.

 

[Apogee]

X2 on the WH F150 tie-rod option and drag link to match, paired with a track bar riser on the axle and factory pitman arm on the box. That should give you the best outcome with the least cost/work. I'm doing the full custom route on mine with Chevy TRE's, bungs, custom track bar + mount, full width HP D44, etc, so not super easy or cheap so far.

 

[Bruners4]

this would be news to me unless you have 76-77 Bronco knuckles, OP has F150 knuckles, unless he has over 4.5" of backspacing it should not be an issue.

Ah! I did not know this. My experience is with the 76-77 Bronco Knuckles.

 

[flousberg]

So from WH

Tie Rod for F150 Knuckles | Two Way Adjustable | 1966-77 Ford Bronco

Eliminate the guesswork from your Ford-style disc brake swap - this adjustable tie rod kit is designed for 1976-79 Ford knuckles mounted on your 1966-75 Bronco.

www.wildhorses4x4.com

Adjustable Drag Link | 28 - 30 inch | 1966-75 Ford Bronco

Fine-tune your 66-75 Bronco steering with our adjustable drag link - 28" to 30" length, enables perfect centering of steering gearbox. Great for lifted Broncos.

www.wildhorses4x4.com

Track Bar Riser Bracket | Dana 30 & 44 | 1966-77 Ford Bronco

Wild Horses Early Bronco Track Bar Riser Bracket - the original and still the best! For lifted Broncos, perfects your track bar angle for optimal performance.

www.wildhorses4x4.com

Early Bronco Tie Rod Over Knuckle Sleeves for F150 Tie Rod Ends | Pair

Move your Early Bronco tie rods out of harm’s way with TRO knuckle sleeves for F150 tie rods. Better clearance and steering angles to improve trail performance.

www.wildhorses4x4.com

Tapered Reamer for Knuckles

Upgrade your steering knuckles for tie rod over or oversized tie rod ends — This clean, precise Knuckle Reamer tool is perfect for both DIY and shop use.

www.wildhorses4x4.com

That look correct? $519.

 

[Yeller]

Does to me. If you call them they can coach you as well. You’ll not find better informed, helpful group of customer service folks. I buy parts from them to use in non-bronco applications just for their customer service, that and the Creels (owners) are top notch great folks.

 

[flousberg]

I have gotten stuff from them before. One of my preferred.

 

[kevscj5]

Your list from WH looks complete to me. They are some good people there who will help, indeed.

I did a similar upgrade over last winter. I have a '77 F150 high pinon front 44.
Used the following...
-WH track bar riser bracket.
-James Duff custom HD adjustable Track Bar with a bend in it to help clear the oil pan at full stuff.
-Extreme Custom Fab heavy duty Tie Rod and Drag Link with 1-ton TREs.
-Tie-Rod over by reaming and Extreme Custom Fab bushings for 1-ton TREs.
-Reamed the Pitman Arm hole as well to accept the 1-ton TRE on the drag link.

Turned out pretty nice and the 2 bars are dang close to parallel.
One interference issue I encountered was between the bigger TRE at the Pitman Arm and the Tie Rod, when the driver side is stuffed up and the two parts pass each other.
I purchased a different TRE from Moog which had a slightly smaller body and I ground a small flat spot onto the interfering side of the TRE body so that it clears now. I pulled back the front axle a hair too by tightening down the radius arm Heims by a turn.