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turn signals stopped working; more info still not workin

DirtDonk

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i also noted that when i put on a turn signal, say right, with the brakes pushed, it will make the right light go out, this is also with the key off. same goes for the left side.

I mentioned this in your other thread, but no, that's normal. Same thing going on as Viperwolf said a bit ago. And the switch, being a mechanical link, will do this with the key ON or OFF. Only thing that won't work with the key OFF is the turn signals themselves.
Keep digging! We're having fun egging you on to see what else you'll dig up.

Something else. On the '69, you should have the two plugs through the firewall adjacent to the fuse block. Correct?
Disconnect the battery, pull the fuse block off the floor, un-plug the plug (from the engine compartment side if I remember?) and check all connections, wires, loom, and any other pertinent details. Make especially certain that your wires where they go through the firewall and get pressed under the fuse block itself are not frayed and breaking from age.
Pay special attention while you're in there to the main power/charge/ammeter circuit. This last is not likely to be the source of your current problem, but if anything shorts to one of those leads...
Well, you'd be kissing your whole harness goodbye most likely. And in a move that would make 22213evl proud, I got pics, so I ain't lyin.

Paul
 
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bluebronco69

bluebronco69

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ok will check more today since i have time
i really appreciate everyone's help its hard to think up some of these ideas on your own.
 
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bluebronco69

bluebronco69

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so we think it was the turn signal switch, we were able to by pass it and have the front lights and dash indicators light up... so i think thats it, i ordered a new one from toms, and hopefully thats the fix
 

Viperwolf1

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I think the hazard switch is bad too. The front lights coming out of the haz sw go directly to the lights, bypassing the turn sw. The rear light output ties directly to the switched brake wire going into the turn sw. Therefore if the brake lights work the rear haz lights should work.
 
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bluebronco69

bluebronco69

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ok so this is cool... not
got my new turn signal switch form toms, took longer then expected cuz fedex messed up grrrr.

anyways its NOT the signal switch, when i plugged the new one in i got the same results :(

what is going on here im going to try more flasher units but i dont think they are the problem. fuses are good, connections are good,
what the heck
 
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bluebronco69

bluebronco69

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i guess it must be a dead short somewhere because when i put the signal on, either side, it seems to be loosing the power, (the big blue wire is hot with key on) and that isnt hot when i put a signal on, so dead short, a wire mus thave rubbed through?

hope i can find it, ugh this is stupid lol
 

Viperwolf1

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Pull the column connector apart then check each corner wire with an ohmmeter. Bulbs will have a few ohms of resistance, a short to ground will have much less. You should check the column side wires also.
 
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bluebronco69

bluebronco69

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i will try that, i was also thinking about my short idea, and that doesnt seem right though, since the brake lights work...
 
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bluebronco69

bluebronco69

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ok well, i will go ahead and say it was some sort of problem at the fuse block, i swapped fuses, and then they worked again, yet the fuse that was in there, tested good, and what not, and the connections were clean...

so i dont know, all is this
i hate the location of the fuse block on a 69, the glove box is a much better spot for it, i nearly broke my back trying to test and change that fuse lol
 

DirtDonk

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Hmm, I hate to even bring it up bluebronco, since you've just gone through so much trouble for this, but you might take the time sometime soon to pull the fuse block off the floor and check all the wires behind and any connections too.
Your jiggling may have re-connected something that is working it's way loose. And frankly, those floor-mounted fuse blocks can get their wires in a wad and have enough rubbing to wear through insulation after 40 years.
At the very least it's dirty and rusty under there. Worth a check just for that reason alone.
And while you're at it, you should verify the condition of the two firewall plugs and their connections. I've seen several shorts (two of them on '69's by the way) in the circuits between the box and the plugs. Makes me want to bring the subject up, even though you don't want to hear it.

Paul
 

DirtDonk

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When it comes right down to it though, once the battery is disconnected for safety, it's really not that big a deal to pull it all up from the floor. Just awkward to get to, as you found out.

Paul
 
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bluebronco69

bluebronco69

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yea i have replaced two fuse blocks with modern style blade fuse blocks befor eon broncos, so i know which fuses are inline and which are real fused power, and i also couldnt get the plugs un done from the back of the fuse block under the hood, that was when i was trouble shooting this problem

so i think i will try to hold out until this winter and replace the fuse block with a newer one.

oh boy
 
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