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uncut and lift looks like crud with stock sized tires!!

jurob

Jr. Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2007
Messages
137
Loc.
Virginia Beach, Va
hope that gets some attention. honestly though, it does not look good. luckily i ordered some warflares and procomp mt 35/12.5/15's on classic II's.
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installed a wh 3 1/2" susp and 2" body with new mounts more like 2 1/2"

steering shaft is too short and kind of binding. whats the solution for that? would have been nice if it was slip fit for some extra length.

ordered the 3 1/2" because i thought i wouldn't have to mess with driveshafts. well, rear comes out of the slip approx 3" and appears to be binding on the cv by the transfer case. haven't put it in 4wd so i'm expecting similar problems with the front. goind to pull the rear ds and have it lengthened, hopefully that fixes it with new u joints.

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this is my 75 with factory powersteering, all ideas appreciated
 

jeffncs

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
May 4, 2004
Messages
1,160
Loc.
Raleigh, NC
No offense intended.... Of course it looks bad, you put on WAAY too much lift for those little tires! One or the other would have been fine, not both.

Jeff
 
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jurob

Jr. Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2007
Messages
137
Loc.
Virginia Beach, Va
good thing i wont be running them much longer, hence the susp and body lift that i finished installing yesterday. no offense taken, but did you even read the post or did you just look at the pictures?

spoke to wh, driveshaft extended so much its wobbling. need longer driveshaft for the rear. will pull it when it stops raining and drop it off at the shop.

looks like i need a new steering shaft. woowee, there expensive! is there a cheaper alternative to get it done right? extend rag joint? or? really sucks they have no adjustment.
 
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jurob

Jr. Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2007
Messages
137
Loc.
Virginia Beach, Va
really sucks about the driveshafts. front will more than likely have to be done too. if i would have known i would need to lengthen my shafts i would have just ordered the 5.5 susp for essentially the same price and not a put a body lift.

oh well, you live and learn.
 

cgbexec

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 19, 2006
Messages
2,071
Loc.
Naples, FL
You should not be binding in the rear with 3.5" of lift. What does the angle look like at the rear pinion? It should be within a few degrees of being straight. My front is binding with 3.5" of suspension lift and I am going to have to order a custom high angle drive shaft. I ground out as much as I could in the double joint and I got it to rotate without binding, but if I were to off-road and the front axel drooped, something would break.

Put that truck on some 33's or 34's. If you can get something skinny enough you may not need to cut the rear. I am going to cut mine as I am going to run 35 X 12.5's.
 
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jurob

Jr. Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2007
Messages
137
Loc.
Virginia Beach, Va
i hope i don't have to order a custom for the front, i'll be quite pissed. if i have to lengthen thats ok i guess. maybe i should have stuck with jeeps lol

read post #4 regarding driveshaft.

i guess i'm not clear in my posts or my fellow bronco buddies are skipping over parts of my posts.

the very 1st picture is my 35/12.5/15's on 15x10 mt classic II's with pro comp mt's. they are at my friends shop so he could mount and balance them for me. i will not run a skinny 33 or 34 inch tire as that look is not what i'm after. also will not run a skinny 33 or 34 since i payed almost 1100 dollars for brand new rims, tires, lugs, etc....

on another note, i just found an explorer 302 with gt40 (not P) iron heads with just under 100k miles. should be able to drop that in the bronco within a month. only payed 350 woohoo!
 

scsm76

Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 6, 2005
Messages
1,433
Loc.
Shaver Lake, CA
You will likely need to shim the leaf springs or cut and weld the perches to get a steeper pinion angle in the rear. The pinion should be pointing at the transfer case output yoke. Most likely 6° shims, stay away from the aluminum shims use the steel ones. Most bronco vendors sell them. It would be best to do this before measuring for a new driveshaft. This should fix your binding in the double cardon joint.
 

croft75

Sr. Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2007
Messages
781
Are the driveshafts a problem on all 3.5" lifts, I was looking at the Cage along with some others lift, and other than longer brake lines nothing is mentioned about longer shafts and steering. Is this convienently left out or is this done
by everyone when they lift.
 

Apogee

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 26, 2005
Messages
6,055
My rear shaft was fine when I installed my 3.5" CAGE lift, just a small vibration that could be fixed with shims. The front shaft still needs to be relieved so that it doesn't bind, but length seems fine. I've got a HP to put in, so I haven't been in too much of a hurry to fix the LP D44 issues.
 

72_EB

Contributor
66to77
Joined
Feb 4, 2003
Messages
4,963
I'd love to see you put those 35s on there and just see how it looks and if it fits at all. I've got the same lift and tires (but cut) and I've been toying going back to uncut for months now. How wide are those Classic IIs? Backspacing?
Please please...try it and snap a bunch of pics this weekend. I'd be in your debt.
 
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jurob

Jr. Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2007
Messages
137
Loc.
Virginia Beach, Va
35's i'm sure will fit, but will hit over any dip or bump. the classic II's are 15x10 with 3.6" bs. i wanted 3.5, but they didn't have them.

if i put the tires on before i cut i will def post pics. just estimating, i would guess the rear fender will probably be 1-1 1/2 inches above the tire. i'm set on 35's and to real drive an uncut with 35/12.5's i would guess i would need another 4-5 inches above my current 6 to 6 1/2 just to clear an uncut and thats just too much lift to me.
 

Chief Master Sergeant

Retired U.S. Air Force
Joined
Nov 6, 2002
Messages
5,193
What size are the tire you have on there now? It does look kind of strange. I love the tires and wheels you have planned for it though.
 

cgbexec

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 19, 2006
Messages
2,071
Loc.
Naples, FL
I have heard that some have front drive shaft binding problems with 3.5" suspension lift and others do not. I ordered a new longer front drive shaft for my 3.5" lift and it binds. Like I said I used a dremel grinder and I got it to rotate when the truck is flat on the ground. Off roading with droop and it is going to break a joint. Once I get the truck fully assembled, I am going to order a new front shaft.

Chris B.
 
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jurob

Jr. Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2007
Messages
137
Loc.
Virginia Beach, Va
Chris,
longer ds and grinding helped, so what do you think the solution is so you can actually wheel without busting the shaft?
 

eb66to77

Bronc'Ownly
Joined
Mar 26, 2005
Messages
2,558
Loc.
NOVA
less castor will help also meaning rotating the top of the knuckle forward using degree bushings with a lower degree rating or reversing them (i.e. bottom rear becomes top rear and vice versus) I wouldn't go too crazy or go past zero degrees but you shouldn't with 3.5 inches of lift.
 

fdezone

Sr. Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2006
Messages
634
Loc.
Fredericksburg, VA
Dude, little Aussie's gonna crap when he sees what you've done to his beloved Bronco. The son of the guy you bought that from goes to H.S. with my daughter. He really loved that truck. Drove it to school every day. Way too funny.

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