...For example, I had it line up 0 degrees TDC from the markings and then while I was trying to get the balancer off, the crank rotated a bit. So in it's current state, the timing cover is off and I'm not sure where TDC is.
That's fine, you're going to do it from the inside markings anyway. Whenever you have a Ford Windsor family of engines, never trust the outside markings until you've verified their accuracy by the inside markings!
Sad, but true...
...I see there's dots on the chain to try and line up, but there's more than one.. and a triangle.
This is good. Wait until someone who's done it recently can chime in and remind us of which markings to use. But this is perfect, so not to worry.
Whenever you're going to be removing the front cover, the ultimate markings (the dots and triangles and smiley faces and such on the gears) are what you will use to get the true TDC on the compression stroke of #1 cylinder.
Remember that the markings on the crank and it's damper/balancer come around twice for every one time the distributor is pointed in the right direction. But when you can see both the crank gear and the cam gear under the timing cover, you can see both their markings and those only line up once. When everything is on TDC (or near it if you have offset markings, but I'm sure there will be more discussion on that later).
Now, once you've got the gear markings lined up, try not to rotate the crank after that until you have your timing marks on the damper ring verified. That way you can more easily repeat the setting if it is moved.
But even if you do rotate it a tiny bit by accident, you'll know that you're still close and can simply rotate it back via the outside markings which you will now know are right on.
...Also, one side of the timing chain is pretty tight and the other has a little play in it, should I replace it?
It's a pretty new chain and gear set, so let's check the play.
It's perfectly normal for their to be a minimal amount of play, and that play will only be on the "coast" side of the chain when you turn the crank. So if you, for example, turn the crankshaft clockwise, it pulls the chain tight on the driver's side and all excess slack goes to the passenger side. Turn the crank the other way, and the opposite occurs.
What dictates good or bad, is just how much excess play there actually is. You need a tiny bit just to install the chain and gears. There is a specification somewhere, so we should find it (someone here has the rebuild book and can find the spec here) somewhere.
...Do I just find a 351w timing set?
In theory, yes. But let's hold off for now. Until you determine if it even needs to be replaced.
The timing stuff still confuses me.
Remember we're now talking about two potential types of "timing" for an engine. There is "ignition timing" where you set the spark event by twisting the distributor and reading the numbers with a light.
Then there's "cam timing" which is what the spark timing is based off of ultimately of course, but we need to keep them both clear in our heads when talking about engine internals and tuning.
And even though this is a 351W, according to the engine paperwork, and a few other written docs, the PO changed the firing order to match a 302.
This is because the "ignition timing" can be changed any time a new camshaft is swapped in. Such as in your case, a Crane Cam unit was installed. If you can somehow get the cam number from the builder (or if they included a "cam card" with all the info on it) that would confirm everything.
Cams for Ford Windsors come in two flavors, though I have no idea why anyone would ever use an old 302 firing order in a modern engine. No reason to since the 351 firing order is "better" for a few reasons.
Not that the engine won't run and live on the other version, but if just for continuity alone, and less confusion down the road, keeping the 13726548 firing order would have been the best practice.
You just have to remember to orient the plug wires in the other 15426378 order.
Pretty healthy cam too by the way. Would be a real thumper in a 302, but less radical for the larger 351 (more cubes, less sensitivity to duration and lift amounts) and probably a healthy runner once you get it all back up and running.
Does this have an effect on anything when reinstalling everything? Why would someone do that?
Only reason is that they found a cam they liked, from a company they liked, at a price they liked, and available quickly for their use, but it had the "wrong" firing order built into it.
I've seen that before, where traditional cam manufacturers were tending to stick more with the 302 firing order for all their models, instead of choosing the 351 order and sticking with it instead.
Old habits and likely some lack of information. Though the latter seems far-fetched given Crane's history with building nice Ford cams. I'm sure just as many, if not more people were building hopped up 351's as were hopped up 289's and 302's. But maybe they had some old-school clever deep seated reason to do so.
We may never know...
Other things.. I've drained the coolant from the radiator, but how would I get the rest out of the block? Do I need to? I've also drained the oil... which I'm hoping there's enough residual to not damage anything if I need to rotate the crank.
Yep, you'll be fine. But I would still try to keep as much out of the oil pan as possible. Stuff rags and paper towels, and leave your drain plug open for any coolant that does come out to drain right out. Any tiny bit that does make it into the pan will evaporate after you bring the engine to running temperatures. Assuming there is not a whole lot of it that is.
Hence leaving the drain open, or at least draining it again before filling with oil.
You can introduce compressed air into the heater hose, or it's fittings on the intake or pump (if still installed) and get some more out. Keep the heater control valve all the way to HOT so you get the most flow through the system if you use the heater hose as your entry point.
Another method is to just use water if you don't have pressure. Yes, you'll retain some water in the system, just like the coolant. But pure water makes much less of a mess, causes less contamination of oil and other stuff, and generally just isn't as nasty. It will even evaporate on it's own given enough time, but bring the engine up to full temps and your PCV system will suck the steam right out of the crankcase.
But as always, taking more care in the initial stages makes for less worry and headache in the future.
As far as the balancer, while some google searches pulled up as 50oz, it would seem like the majority say it's 28oz. I'm waiting to get the parts from sandman to measure out and see what I need to make it work. I ended up not getting the balancer from him since I'd have to have it rebalanced anyways. It made more sense to buy one balanced.
Makes sense.
Paul
