Which disc brake conversion is the best?

[Broncster]

Which disc brake conversion is the best?

I have a thread posted on here looking for a 77 front end with discs, but I am looking at the possibility of not hooking up with one real soon. Which one is best?

 

[vbro]

I haven't converted mine yet but the most popular is the ch*vy conversion. There is a Tech article on it.

 

[HorsePlay]

I'm doing the ch*vy because I can put it on my dana 30 and swap it to a dana 44 once I get one

 

[bob_lafrentz]

I take it you have a D30 right now. if this is the case and you want disc brakes right now, you can only do the Chevy conversion.

But, if you have a drum D44, you can do either. If you have a D44, I would do the Ford conversion. Just find a 78/79 and get everything from the knuckles out. I just did this several months ago and it was easy. Works great too.

With either conversion, you should replace the ball joints. And, if you are doing this anyway, the Ford conversion is the only way to go. IMHO.

bob

 

[bert]

I did the Ford conversion. As stated above you will want to do the ball joints with either conversion. The other difference is the size of the tie rod end stud on the 78/79 full size knuckles. BC Broncos sells the bushings to make the stock EB tie rods fit. I have the knuckles and spindles for sale in the classifieds if that is what you decide to do.

 

[73stallion]

i'm doing the ch*vy conversion because i rounded up all the parts for $225.00. also i don't want to f@ck with the ball joints, i don't mind a little grinding.

 

[rjlougee]

I've run both, on the same vehicle and thought the Ford setup had slightly better braking with the front end. If the cost is similar for you, then I'd go with the Ford setup.

If you're looking at changing your gear ratio, or some other need, then it can be better to buy a disked D44 already setup from someone else.

I got a complete RC D44 from a '77 F150 and had it cut down for less than I could have bought a similar EB D44. Cost me about $250 to swap to disk, 4.10 gears, 297 U-joints, etc... Something to consider.
Joe

 

[72bronco]

I did the Ford conversion also and would recommend that as well. It's a knuckles out conversion so it is technically more work than a Chevy conversion, but I'd recommend changing out the ball joints anyway which make the effort the same in the end. A real advantage of the Ford conversion is that you can use the calipers from a late 70's T-bird, which has a larger piston than the F150 calipers but fits the same. Using these calipers gives you better stopping power than what you can get with the Chevy conversion, plus you don't have to do anything funky like grinding the calipers.

 

[Broncster]

Thanks for all the input, I just HATE the word Chevrolet. YUCK!!! I was thinking of doing the Ford conversion, but that F-150 situation sounds like a good idea. How hard was the conversion rjlougee?

 

[rjlougee]

From my site:
" I started with a disk brake D44 from a '77 F150. The good things for my particular case were: 4.09 axle ratio (instead of 3.50), disk brakes (instead of drums), increased ground clearance and beefier axleshafts and u-joints. I got the complete axle from a local junkyard. I've been told that the correct way to do this was to cut the axle tube, press the knuckle off the old tube end, press the knuckle back on the new end and TIG it back together. I took it to Charlie Manthei, at Peak Performance and Fabrication, right here in the 'Springs. He did the work on site, took me about 4 days to get it back. I sent the axleshaft off to Moser Engineering to be cut down and resplined to the same pattern. Both were cut down exactly 6 inches, all from the passenger side. The passenger side 'C' brackets were moved over to the correct position and MIG welded back on. I also had an adjustable track bar made, to correctly locate the axle (I added a 3.5 inch lift at the same time as I installed the axle). I used the tie rod inserts from BCBroncos, since the tie rod ends are larger on the F150. I may redo/rethink this in the next few months, but I had all new tie rods on the truck. One point to consider here. The high pinion is just exactly that, HIGH. I do have clearance issues with the current lift, axle and oilpan. "

To update, the '78/9 housing is easier, someone had a write up on it about it (Francois?).
Joe

 

[Little71]

Dont forget that the 66-75 style tie rod will not be long enough for the new further apart later style Ford knuckles. And the tie rod ends wont go in completely unless you ream them out. Also you dont grind the caliper, you grind the knuckles and there isnt that much to grind, just a small amount at the wheel stops to clear the calipers. It seems to me that the last time this thread came around that someone had mentioned that the chevy caliper piston was bigger than even the larger Ford caliper that can fit on the Ford conversion too. Not sure on that one though.

 

[chuck]

Dont forget that the 66-75 style tie rod will not be long enough for the new further apart later style Ford knuckles. And the tie rod ends wont go in completely unless you ream them out. Also you dont grind the caliper, you grind the knuckles and there isnt that much to grind, just a small amount at the wheel stops to clear the calipers. It seems to me that the last time this thread came around that someone had mentioned that the chevy caliper piston was bigger than even the larger Ford caliper that can fit on the Ford conversion too. Not sure on that one though.

Only the 76-77 EB knuckles need the longer tie rod. The 66-75 and the 78-79 tie rods are the same length. The 76-77 knuckles also put the tie rod up higher.
If there is a chevy caliper that is bigger than the T-bird caliper and will fit I would like to know the application so I can pass the info on to others. I am ask this question often.

 

[maverickconner]

To be a little different, I think the Dodge (80'-85') swap is the best. If you use the knuckle out, you get the flat top knuckles on both sides(for cross over steering), the bigger spindles, bigger bearings, disc brakes(of course), and the same 5 on 5 1/2" bolt pattern as the Bronco, and also the larger tie rod(if you get the whole front end)

 

[Henrietta]

Saw this on Ebay. If anyone is close they could discs for a steal!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2481524513&category=33728


Or this one

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2481059159&category=33564

 

[72bronco]

You can go either way, there are pros and cons to each. Lots of guys have successfully done both conversions so it really comes down to what direction you want to go. The only real con to the Ford conversion is that you have to replace the steering knuckles, however if you're going to replace the ball joints anyway there is no additional work. Either way your brakes will be a whole lot better than running drums. I can only speak from personal experience having done a Ford conversion using the parts from a '78 F150. And yes, you can reuse your existing '66 - '75 tie rod and drag link using BC Broncos tie rod bushings.

 

[Grunt1058]

Is there any Front Disk Brake conversions that seperate the Hub form the Rotor? I don't want to have to pull my hubs evertime I need new Rotors? Shouldn't happen all that often but once is enough for me.;D ;D

<--- Laziness and Procrastination are my biggest enemies...

 

[Dusty]

Is there any Front Disk Brake conversions that seperate the Hub form the Rotor? I don't want to have to pull my hubs evertime I need new Rotors? Shouldn't happen all that often but once is enough for me.;D ;D

<--- Laziness and Procrastination are my biggest enemies...

You're kidding right? If you wheel it at all, you should be re-packing your wheel bearings more often than you're replacing the rotors. And at that point the hub and rotor are pretty much off already.

Dusty