Turn Signal Gremlins.......

[TheProject]

I have read every post on turn signal switch issues I can find over the last week. OK, I need some help from the gurus. At the moment, I am so frustrated with wiring on my eb that I am debating investing in the Centech. I know it is a sound decision, but spring is here and I am almost street legal. It has taken me a year and a half to be able to drive to the parts store in it and the only issues seem to be turn signal related. Heres the skinny:

I replaced the turn signal switch in the column. The PO removed the switch before i bought it. I now have running lights in the rear (one filament in the bulb is glowing.)

1.) No brake lights so I replaced the switch on the pedal. Still nothing. (with emergency flasher on dash pulled, I could jump the switch entirely and both turn indicators on the gauge cluster would tun on but not flash.) Still nothing in the rear.

2.) No turn signal in the rear (L or R.) So I replaced flashers (both warning and turn.) Still nothing.

3.) Upon pulling the emergency flasher on the dash while having the switch indicating L, I was able to notice the turn indicator on the gauge was showing L but not blinking (and nothing for R.) And still nothing in the rear.

So I broke out the mutlimeter. I am not trained in this thing, but was able to test a few examples that I read on the web to make sure it was working.

4.) Tested the female end of the turn signal switch harness and came up with no power being supplied anywhere on any wire there. How can this be if the indicators light up?

I found the baby blue wire that dead ends with a red wire at a elbow not connected to anything but on the diagrams, it doesn't show where it goes. Also there is a random yellow with black stripe not connected to anything but i assume that is for the radio.

I have checked fuses and traced wiring diagrams until I am blue in the face. I have a 1967 almost bone stock. I need help. Headlights do run and dim/brighten correctly. Both tun signals in the front are disconnected. Much thanks to anyone and everyone who can help in advance.

 

[TheProject]

And also, the key was on. Ha. Truck was running for most of the tests.

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[Toddml]

Confirm that the front and rear turn signal bulbs have good contact, clean the bulb contacts and the connection outlets. Also, need to check grounds, may be disconnected at each of the lights.

 

[Viperwolf1]

Something is wrong with the rear harness along the driver side frame. Maybe melted next to exhaust.

Baby blue wire sounds like power from turn flasher to column.

 

[kc15842]

Did you say the front signals are disconnected? I know when I had a bad bulb front or back the light would light but it wouldn't blink. I would try conecting all lights in the circuit.

 

[TheProject]

I am going to feel like a moron if the from signals have to be hooked up. Ha.

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[TheProject]

Viper, I have two baby blue wires in the female half of the turn signal switch harness. One baby blue and one baby blue with a yellow stripe. I don't know if that helps.

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[Viperwolf1]

Viper, I have two baby blue wires in the female half of the turn signal switch harness. One baby blue and one baby blue with a yellow stripe. I don't know if that helps.

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Blue-yellow is for the horn.

BTW, you are aware there 2 different connectors for the column, right?

 

[TheProject]

Yes there is a set of six then two by themselves

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[Viperwolf1]

Yes there is a set of six then two by themselves

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The set of two are your rear turn/brake wires.

 

[TheProject]

So at the plug with only two, I have Orange male to green female. And green/red male to yellow female. I have running lights, why not brake lights.

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[Viperwolf1]

So at the plug with only two, I have Orange male to green female. And green/red male to yellow female. I have running lights, why not brake lights.

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There shouldn't be any mixed colors. Sometimes aftermarket turn signal switches use different colors.

'66-'71 Column Connections
Blue=12v from turn flasher to turn switch, circuit #44
white-blue=right front turn and indicator lamp, circuit #2
orange-blue=right rear brake and turn lamp, circuit #5
green-white=left front turn and indicator lamp, circuit #3
green-orange=left rear brake and turn lamp, circuit #9
red-black=12v brake switch to turn signal switch, circuit #810
yellow=12v headlight switch to horn switch, circuit #460
blue-yellow=horn switch to horn, circuit #482

 

[DirtDonk]

Running lights don't go through the turn signal switch.
And to another question, your indicator lights will light up with the hazard switch even if you don't have all your column wires working. I think.
I know the two are intricately intertwined, but I'm pretty sure that the dash indicators will work just from the hazard switch.
Viper can verify or deny that, but I think that's true.

While you're messing around (and with the battery disconnected preferably) pull the two rectangular firewall connectors apart where all the main wires run through. They can get corroded and maybe some of them are messing with you.
I don't think your tail lights go through there (they should be there on the driver's side if the '67 has that connector) but it can't hurt to make sure those connections are clean and tight.
Besides, the fronts DO go through there, so there could be some related issues.

Ditto for the fuse box on the firewall/floor as well. Rust is a constant issue with those and even some wires get pinched between the box and the floor metal. I've seen wires cut underneath the fuse box give all sorts of strange goings-on.

Make sure that your tail light buckets are grounded to the body too.
How do the headlights work? If they work well, then your core-support is still grounded so that should not be an issue for the front turn signals. But if you have weak headlights, check that you're well grounded up front. A quick test with a jumper wire between the battery negative and the ground screws near the headlights will tell the tale. If the lights get brighter when you do that, you should attach a jumper permanently between the core support and the fenders to sort of "reconnect" the body parts so they act like they're part of the same system.
It's not a universal problem, but it's common enough now after 40+ years that it's worth a couple of minutes to test.

Good luck.

Paul

 

[TheProject]

UPDATE!!!

Alright fellas. After cleaning the retaining prongs on the fuse block, I was able to get the emergency flasher to work. Flasher clicks, and indicators on gauge cluster show; but still, nothing in the rear. Then I got to thinking, If the connectors on the fuse block are rusted, what about the connector for the brake switch. I broke out the test light and there is power going to the switch and power leaving the switch, but nothing in the wire. Viola.....clean the connector and brake light in the driver side rear. I had to immediately leave for work, so i didn't have time to continue with the passenger side. I will update tomorrow as to how well its going. Many thanks to everyones input. It is very appreciated.

 

[TheProject]

Just got drivers rear brake light to work. Replaced wire coming from brake switch. And emergency flashers blink and indicate but not showing in rear. Also left for about twenty min and came back to a dead battery. On the charger now to see if I can find the parasite.

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