Help diagnose engine ticking sound - Rebuilt 351W with 4R70W

[davisjstone]

Not sure where to begin. Glorified Youtube mechanic at best here so bear with me. Pulling my hair out with this build, feel like I’m going from one problem to the next. This is my first time really working on cars. In over my head to say the least.

Rebuilt 351W by a machine shop (roller) and a rebuilt 4R70W. I’ve fired it up a few times and have been troubleshooting leaks, cooling issues, Sniper EFI, etc. Today after pressure testing the cooling system I fired it up and ran it at about 2k for 10 minutes to start a break in. Towards the end of the run I stated to hear a tick. I shut it down pretty quick as I didn’t like what I was hearing. I’m using a mechanical oil pressure gauge and the pressure has been around 55 psi, but I didn’t check it at the moment when I heard the noise.

The machine shop is hours away, so they are no help at this point. Seemed to get louder when I got under the engine. I’m going to check all of the bellhousing bolts and flexplate but doubtful it will be that easy.

I took a quick video, hoping the seasoned experts here have some suggestions on where to start or how to diagnose? I don’t know if it’s coming from the motor or trans and not sure where to start. Really hoping it’s not something catastrophic. Ugh.

 

[Grey owl]

That is not ticking that is a serious knock sounds like it spun a bearing. Get yourself an automotive stethoscope. Pull the valve covers look for a broken rocker arm. Take the stethoscope and touch the pan when its running you will know real quick if it spun a bearing.

 

[davisjstone]

That is not ticking that is a serious knock sounds like it spun a bearing. Get yourself an automotive stethoscope. Pull the valve covers look for a broken rocker arm. Take the stethoscope and touch the pan when its running you will know real quick if it spun a bearing.

@Grey owl Okay will do. I was afraid this might be the case. Assuming a broken rocker arm will be readily apparent once the valve cover is off? I’ll grab an automotive stethoscope and see what the pan has to say.

 

[DirtDonk]

I would also check for some external obvious distress.
Remove the fan belts, or serpentine belt, depending upon what you have, and see if the noise changes.
It certainly sounds like it’s coming from inside underneath, but noises travel all over the place and it actually sounds a lot like a cooling fan hitting something up front.
Although you would certainly hear that from the top as well and see witness marks on things like radiators and other components.
But certainly the stethoscope routine is an immense aid. You can even use the stethoscope (or long screwdriver to the ear) with the valve covers still intact and get a glimpse of what’s going on inside by where the sound is coming from.

Good luck. Nobody wants to hear noises from a new engine
By the way, though, if this is actually a roller engine, you don’t need to go through the same strategic break-in procedure that you read about all the time.
That is for flat tappet cams, and a roller cam doesn’t need the same break-in. Although I still like to do what you’re doing initially,
I wouldn’t even worry about it for more than a few minutes.

 

[Timmy390]

Roller cam break in is not really needed but to each their own.

While sound is different to every ear, that does not sound like a rod knock. Rod knocks are a deep sound IMO. Like a big hammer hitting solid. A thud....

To me that sounds hollow....but I am on my phone so....

I would check the flex plate. Sounds like it's hitting the bell housing.

Tim

 

[ba123]

+1 on what Timmy said.

And if you look at that video, towards the end where through the hole, you can see your flexplate...it kinda looks warped.

Remove your inspection cover and see if the noise gets better, or changes. The way an inspection plate fits in there, The bolt tips from the TC might just be hitting that alone.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Loose torque convertor nuts can sound like a major engine problem. I would inspect those.

 

[davisjstone]

I would also check for some external obvious distress.
Remove the fan belts, or serpentine belt, depending upon what you have, and see if the noise changes.
It certainly sounds like it’s coming from inside underneath, but noises travel all over the place and it actually sounds a lot like a cooling fan hitting something up front.
Although you would certainly hear that from the top as well and see witness marks on things like radiators and other components.
But certainly the stethoscope routine is an immense aid. You can even use the stethoscope (or long screwdriver to the ear) with the valve covers still intact and get a glimpse of what’s going on inside by where the sound is coming from.

Good luck. Nobody wants to hear noises from a new engine
By the way, though, if this is actually a roller engine, you don’t need to go through the same strategic break-in procedure that you read about all the time.
That is for flat tappet cams, and a roller cam doesn’t need the same break-in. Although I still like to do what you’re doing initially,
I wouldn’t even worry about it for more than a few minutes.

Thanks! Explorer sept with an electric fan (a decision I regret - I plan to go to the explorer clutch fan in due time as the electric doesn't seem to be keeping up). I will disconnect the fan and pull the belt off to see if that changes anything.

 

[davisjstone]

Loose torque convertor nuts can sound like a major engine problem. I would inspect those.

@ba123 @Timmy390 @Broncobowsher thanks! I wasn't planning to do a full break in, just wanted to run it at higher RPM's to move some oil around and watch the temps.

The inspection cover was already off, but I will take a closer look and check the nuts that attach the torque converter to the flexplate. I'm assuming with the inspection cover off, I can manually rotate the engine to get to each of the nuts?

I also plan to check the bellhousing bolts...I just realized the top two bellbousing bolts are loose, but the others are tight. Not sure if that could cause the flexplate to move that much.

Headed out of town with the family so it will be a few days before I can run down the list.

 

[DirtDonk]

I'm assuming with the inspection cover off, I can manually rotate the engine to get to each of the nuts?

Correct.

 

[ba123]

Yeah, rotate it and listen if you he’s for feel anything. Doesn’t sound like it but check your front crossmember for pulley interference as well but belt off would tell you that as well.

 

[davisjstone]

Yeah, rotate it and listen if you he’s for feel anything. Doesn’t sound like it but check your front crossmember for pulley interference as well but belt off would tell you that as well.

Will do. I just fired up up again for about 5 minutes and did not hear the ticking/knocking. I just let it idle and didn't apply any load. Oil pressure was around 50-60 psi the entire time

If it was a spun bearing, wouldn't I hear it from the get go regardless of engine temp?

 

[Timmy390]

IMO, if you had a spun bearing you would NOT have 50-60psi oil pressure.

Tim

 

[hsach]

Sounds similar to a bad lifter I had in a Yukon with the 5.3L. It would be quiet for a bit, then the noise would start. Hopefully it is a loose bolt, or something quick and easy, good luck.

 

[Grey owl]

Will do. I just fired up up again for about 5 minutes and did not hear the ticking/knocking. I just let it idle and didn't apply any load. Oil pressure was around 50-60 psi the entire time

If it was a spun bearing, wouldn't I hear it from the get go regardless of engine temp?

The stethoscope will pin point your noise.

 

[Grey owl]

If its s rod bearing , with the engine running pull off spark plug wire to each cylinder. Pull off wire listen, put it back on move to next cylinder. A collapsed piston will make noise when engine is warm.

 

[Grey owl]

The stethoscope will pin point your noise.

A spun rod bearing will have less effect ln oil pressure than a main bearing.

 

[Broncobowsher]

I finally got to hear it with halfway decent speakers. That's not a rod bearing. They have a much deeper clunk to them. That is a tap. Valvetrain, exhaust, flexplate, fuel pump. I have a hard enough time in person, no way can I ID that from a clip. I'm not that good.

 

[fordguy]

Flex plate got me, forgot to tighten them all the way.

 

[SLOWnEASY]

Not really sure why I can't get the video to play, it's one of my blockers I have running on my computer. But exhaust leaks can sound an awful lot like an engine knock or tick. I think it was touched above, but something as simple as a 1 foot long piece of vacuum hose stuck in you ear can help pinpoint where the noise is coming from.