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Replacing heim steering parts going back to stock

How to get rid of heim steering and replacing with tie rods

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Tamnative3

Jr. Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2026
Messages
71
My 73 came with heim steering parts and I would like to change it back to the stock set up , they also changed over to front disc brakes that I believe are Ford parts any help would be appreciated. I have no idea what to look for.
 

73azbronco

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 11, 2007
Messages
8,778
could be stock 76-77 EB disks or fullsize bronco, need more info
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
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Nov 3, 2003
Messages
51,617
Yep, some pictures would be good.
Including the linkage itself to see what kind of set up you have.
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
37,066
Depends on how the heim was converted. Is there a nut on both ends? That would be the tapered adapter that gives a straight stud for the heim, That would be no harder then knocking them out like a ball joint. The other, and I consider more common, is if they drilled the knuckle with a straight hole. That will have a bolt through it.
 

SteveL

Huge chevy guy
Joined
Jun 24, 2001
Messages
11,969
Loc.
Hawthorne ca
If the knuckles still have the stock taper(not drilled straight thru) the hole will be too big for the stock early bronco tie-rods. Most of the vendors sell a tapered bushing that will remedy the problem.
 
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Tamnative3

Jr. Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2026
Messages
71
I just started investigating it today. They don’t look like anything I have seen on the web. They have a number cast into them “c37836 on the right side and c37837 on the left “ the arm for the drag link on the knuckle is straight and is noware near the tire and has a 3/4” non tapered hole. The caliper and rotor are ford. I was wondering if they might be from a 76-77 bronco. I don’t think they are GM knuckles As the cast numbers are not long enough and ford numbers always end with an even number for the right and an odd number on the left ( except for fenders) . I will try and get some pictures later.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
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Messages
51,617
The numbers aren’t necessarily FORD RGM. They could be Dana/Spicer.
 

Shimmy

Contributor
1977 Bronco
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Jun 20, 2021
Messages
1,392
Loc.
Maple Valley
They are worn out, no good way to keep them lubed and they are not DOT approved.
many heim joints these days are a "no lube" kinda thing. maybe just swap for some higher end heims?

DOT is another thing. if you need to pass inspections then maybe that's an issue. otherwise DOT "approved" is somewhat of a joke imo, since many of us are running "off-road only" items that are perfectly safe on the road

anyways, just thinking of a way you can replace your heims without getting into the knuckles
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
51,617
Yes, not only doable, but it’s the most common method of going to spherical rod ends.
The typical size is a three-quarter inch bolt, so people simply drill out the steering arms to three-quarter inch and bolt and go.
 

ntsqd

heratic car camper
Joined
Jan 30, 2005
Messages
5,953
Loc.
Upper SoKA
Even though I live in a State where Inspections are not required there is no way that I would use Spherical Rod Ends (SRE) in steering linkage for a street driven vehicle. Race cars are different, have no problem using them there but really only for weight reduction.
Tie Rod Ends (TRE) were designed for street use and they're more than capable off-road. They do have an angularity limit that is exceeded by an SRE's angularity limit. Do you really need that much angularity in a tie-rod or a drag-link? A TRE is wear compensating and the act of greasing one flushes out contaminants. An SRE with a grease zerk has no business being in any steering system, those are the weakest possible option.
If you insist on using SRE's in steering then at least put some Seals-It washers on them.


Sorry, but this is a sore spot.
The whole phrase "DOT Approved" is purely marketing. The DOT doesn't approve anything. They have no way to test anything for conformance to their stds. Each Mfg of DOT compliant part(s) certifies thru testing and written QA/QA policies & procedures that their parts comply with DOT standards. If/when they don't and have been determined to be contributory to a problem, then they get a visit from some unhappy Feds. If a mfg is going to mark "DOT" on the part then they'd better be able to show that the production has been holding to the DOT stds for that part.
The chinesium clones of a reputable mfg's parts is a particularly foul offense.
The German TUV DOES test parts for compliance. The TUV's set of standards is nearly identical to the DOT stds, so if a part is marked "TUV", then it can be assumed to meet DOT stds., but it's still not "DOT approved".
 
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Tamnative3

Jr. Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2026
Messages
71
All I am trying to do is take the heim set up off and get tapered sleeves to bring it back to the stock configuration. I’m not building a rock climber and with all the work I am doing to it I have no intention of beating the crap out of it. I just need to find taper sleeves that will work with the knuckles I have which have a 3/4” straight hole which I assume will have to be drilled bigger. My biggest problem had been trying to figure out what the previous owner did. I am just trying to get it so I have no problems getting parts go it. When you get a vehicle that someone threw parts from different makes etc. it turns into a cluster $&@& and you end up with a pile of metal while trying to get it back together. I want to avoid all that .
 

lars

Contributor
Been here awhile
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Jun 29, 2001
Messages
3,333
Loc.
NorCal flatlands
Those are Ford knuckles based on your description of the calipers etc. 76/77 EB knuckles put the end of the steering arms pretty close to the wheel. If they aren't, then they are probably F-150 knuckles, someone else can chime in with the year. Or maybe they are Duff knuckles, yet another permutation. All Ford variants.
Whatever.
Drill them out to 7/8" and use the sleeves linked in post #6. Lots of vendors sell steering linkage kits ready to use for EB's, with GM 1 ton tie rod ends, like this for example: https://barnes4wd.com/products/over-the-knuckle-one-ton-y-link-steering-kit (welding required). I've been running the bushings plus a steering kit like that since forever. Works fine.
 
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Tamnative3

Jr. Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2026
Messages
71
I guess getting sleeves that would allow me to get “OEM” parts from one of the distributors like Tom’s off road or LMC or a local parts house like Napa is a no go then. I’m just trying to keep it simple.
 

ntsqd

heratic car camper
Joined
Jan 30, 2005
Messages
5,953
Loc.
Upper SoKA
I'm sorry. LOL

Which end? There's a lot of us scattered all over the State.

You don't have a lot of posts, which causes me to ask if you are new to Broncos or just new to this forum? Just trying to get an idea of skill and knowledge level.

Simple and local probably means that you need to call Wild Horses in Lodi.
https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/early-bronco-steering I didn't see the particular part that you need in a quick look, but it's worth calling them.
As for the actual linkage, what Lars posted above is a decent upgrade while also reverting to stock style parts. It's what I'd buy in your situation.
 
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