AOD Remote Only Trans Cooler setups

[Yeller]

The pulses hitting the baffles makes them absorb heat, kind of like running a torch through a tube, the tube doesn’t get near as hot as the flame, put something at the end of that tube and it will absorb the heat. Flow masters get hotter than a straight through magnaflow for instance.

 

[nvrstuk]

I thermal barrier coated my entire exhaust inside/out to help reduce heat. That muffler of yours is really hot!!

2 Q's.... 1-Did you buy chance take any IR measurements to document the difference in surface temps?
2- Can you pm me what it cost to do something like this? I'm interested since IC engines are about 60+ % inefficient and heat is by product #1... I must be putting out a couple hundred thousand BTU's off my rig. lol

I love my heat shields for the floor and firewall... would love to do something for the heat coming out from UNDER the Bronco along the sides into the tube doors...

TS is right, thin sheet alum is hard to beat for keeping the floor cool"er"- lot's cooler!

 

[nvrstuk]

Ben- have you tried running your rig really hard for a few miles with a pull off spot already figured out and then after that "hot drive", pull off with an IR gun and a buddy writing down the dozen spots you quickly check with the IR. I'll bet the #'s show some pretty warm spots. Just the air flowing by giving some pretty high #'s will suprise us I'm guessing???

Be interesting.

 

[ntsqd]

The pulses hitting the baffles makes them absorb heat, kind of like running a torch through a tube, the tube doesn’t get near as hot as the flame, put something at the end of that tube and it will absorb the heat. Flow masters get hotter than a straight through magnaflow for instance.

I was guessing that something like that was the reason why they run so warm.

 

[ba123]

Ben- have you tried running your rig really hard for a few miles with a pull off spot already figured out and then after that "hot drive", pull off with an IR gun and a buddy writing down the dozen spots you quickly check with the IR. I'll bet the #'s show some pretty warm spots. Just the air flowing by giving some pretty high #'s will suprise us I'm guessing???

Be interesting.

I haven’t written anything down but I’m pretty good at remembering the temps I find. I knew what my pipes would be after the run I just did. The problem is that I changed mufflers a bit ago (we talked about this) and muffler was never a problem before as I did have a straight through Magnaflow and so what was never an issue.

So, I’m sure that me changing to this Flowmaster has brought a ton more heat and ruined the advantage of this cooler I changed to.

I’m not changing back, but it would be interesting to see what happens if I did (other than going deaf from that Magnaflow)

 

[ba123]

Ok, so I got the heat shield (just a crappy Amazon one to try instead of the $100 name brand one.



Went for a drive…80 on the freeway for a bit and then the same hills I pushed it on the other day. It is slightly cooler today but I pushed it at least twice as hard every chance I got.

I got the trans to 214° which is hotter than I expected but it did cool down to 208° when I pulled into the garage and took some temps for comparison.

This time the Flowmaster muffler was 480° instead of the 450° it was last time so proof that I pushed it significantly harder.

The heat shield on the outside of the muffler was 135°!!! Wow, that works.

The transmission cooler body was 125-130° as opposed to last time with a temp of 175°.

That’s a huge difference and seems that muffler change was my problem.

Will have to see how it does on other drives to know if I need anything else.

 

[bronco italiano]

2 Q's.... 1-Did you buy chance take any IR measurements to document the difference in surface temps?
2- Can you pm me what it cost to do something like this? I'm interested since IC engines are about 60+ % inefficient and heat is by product #1... I must be putting out a couple hundred thousand BTU's off my rig. lol

I love my heat shields for the floor and firewall... would love to do something for the heat coming out from UNDER the Bronco along the sides into the tube doors...

TS is right, thin sheet alum is hard to beat for keeping the floor cool"er"- lot's cooler!

Did not take IR measurements. Took my hand 10 minutes after shutting engine off and grabbed the exhaust throughout.
Cost- go to caps coating's, they are out of Fresno, CA and have a pricing list.

 

[bronco italiano]

Any new testing results?

 

[ba123]

Any new testing results?

No, haven’t driven it and out of town the past few days.

Trying to decide if I want to try putting one more layer of shield to see what difference it makes.

 

[ksagis]

Feels like multiple layers of heat shield is maybe diminishing returns but thats just a guess?

 

[Broncobowsher]

I can tell there was a bit of a workout on the engine. I see one stainless clamp turned straw colored. The other one still looks silver, guessing that one is not on a hot spot of the muffler. When you turn it blue/purple you know it has been really worked hard. I can't do chrome exhaust tips on tow rigs, they turn all sorts of blues and purples unless you do the fancy double wall ones to keep the heat in check. Those are too fancy for me.

 

[ba123]

Feels like multiple layers of heat shield is maybe diminishing returns but thats just a guess?

Isn’t “diminishing returns” the actual goal?

HA!

 

[ntsqd]

I'm inclined to think that it's like a logarithmic decay. If each is 50% effective the second one doesn't have much to start with.

 

[ba123]

I'm also having an issue where if I hammer hard on this trans, I lose a little fluid out of the breather. really annoying.

At first, I was going to put a fuel rollover valve but the one I got seems like it sucks and won't let air back in when it cools so thinking I should figure out a setup with a super small catch can that will collect it but allow the fluid to drain back down when cold. {FOR THOSE THAT WILL ASK: It is NOT overfilled, is NOT aerating, it's not from excess heat, and no problem to fix (so don't try to fix me), it is just built more of a drag race trans that one that should be in a Bronco--my bad, and if I don't do something, I eventually lose enough fluid that it will be low, which IS bad).

Any suggestions on a catch can that would be ideal?

Looking at this small one maybe (click here)

Thinking maybe plumb the breather to the drain hole or hard to be sure but maybe if I plumbed to the "OUT" then I would have to add trans fluid into this to the level of the brass filter (assuming I'm looking at this correctly).

Thanks!

 

[ntsqd]

Plumb the breather to the top of that catch can and plumb the drain valve into the dip-stick tube up fairly high. Might possibly even be able to leave the valve open.

The 700R4 that I had built for the FJ60 got a block screwed and bonded to the case so that I could use -4 AN/JIC fittings for its vent. One of my rare fore-thoughts......

 

[ba123]

Plumb the breather to the top of that catch can and plumb the drain valve into the dip-stick tube up fairly high. Might possibly even be able to leave the valve open.

The 700R4 that I had built for the FJ60 got a block screwed and bonded to the case so that I could use -4 AN/JIC fittings for its vent. One of my rare fore-thoughts......

I thought about draining back to the dipstick but I'd have to weld a barb on there and can't pull that dipstick tube without draining the trans. Level is WAY higher than the base of the tube. But I could do that at some point.

 

[bronco italiano]

Have you thought about a blanket/wrap at the header collectors to the muffler?
I have a catch can for you if you need.

 

[ksagis]

Before I made my radiator overflow and wiper washer tanks, I looked at the products from canton racing products. Might be worth a look.

Canton Racing Products | Performance Oil Pans, Coolant Tanks, Accusump, Oil Filters...

Our products solve your engines' oil and cooling problems. Improve your engines oil pressure, oil temperature, and coolant system with Canton Racing Products.

www.cantonracingproducts.com

 

[ntsqd]

I thought about draining back to the dipstick but I'd have to weld a barb on there and can't pull that dipstick tube without draining the trans. Level is WAY higher than the base of the tube. But I could do that at some point.

Were I going to do that I would silver-solder (oxy-fuel) or possibly silicon-bronze (GTAW) a bung onto the tube. Preference would be a ORB bung, but I'd take an NPT bung in a pinch.
Trans pan does have a drain plug? No reason that the level can't be lowered, tube mods made, and then that ATF poured back into the trans. I'd use this catch-can with their sintered bronze vent in the top port, trans vent into the side port, and the drain back at the bottom. Poke-n-Hope fittings and polymer tubing for all of the plumbing bits.

 

[ba123]

Were I going to do that I would silver-solder (oxy-fuel) or possibly silicon-bronze (GTAW) a bung onto the tube. Preference would be a ORB bung, but I'd take an NPT bung in a pinch.
Trans pan does have a drain plug? No reason that the level can't be lowered, tube mods made, and then that ATF poured back into the trans. I'd use this catch-can with their sintered bronze vent in the top port, trans vent into the side port, and the drain back at the bottom. Poke-n-Hope fittings and polymer tubing for all of the plumbing bits.

Oh, I love the orb bung idea, thanks!

I love my Canton oil pan but for this I only want something super small. It’s not a lot of fluid.

So, I ordered this one (click here) from Amazon. It’s only 150ml which should be perfect for this. It should come today and will see.

Yes, I could lower the fluid and do it right…just had to drain the trans fluid so many times when I was having valve body issues that I’m feeling lazy but you’re tight—just do it.