AOD Remote Only Trans Cooler setups

[ba123]

That you couldn't pull it off is a good sign. What happens with a clamp is that it forces the hose down on those barbs, which then cut the liner of the hose and now it will leak. Maybe not right away, but not too far in the future. Without a clamp the hose end to hose connection is good to the bursting strength of the hose. A loose hose clamp will be be tightened by someone who doesn't know any better.

It's just that going Nekkid (without clamps) is pretty squirmy, right?

What I do with hoses that are a significant risk, like fuel in a dyno room, is to use one of the narrow Thomas & Betts tye-wraps and very carefully place it between the two barbs of the hose end. Pull it up to just barely snug and then trim the end flush (not that you wouldn't anyway, but now someone else can't tighten it further).
What you're doing here is pulling the hose down over the barb just enough to ensure that it can't slip off the barb, without risking cutting the liner.
If you have a Clamp-Tite tool (& why not if you don't?) you can do a similar thing with one of those fabricated from Safety wire clamps. I've done it both ways. In either case as soon as you see that the hose has been slightly pulled down between the barbs is where you stop.
I am firmly convinced that doing this is a completely unnecessary, but on some assemblies I do it anyway for my own peace of mind.

I went back and removed the clamps...they were even looser than I thought I had them...not even tightened cause I get I was thinking the same thing when putting them on. I added zip ties for my own peace of mind. Thanks for the input. I'll keep an eye on those and if I notice any leaking I will make a change to something else. My hesitation is that I did not intentionally buy push-lock barb fittings and it isn't push-lock hose but I do have some I might have used if I had thought about it before so I'll use it if this starts to leak.

I had to do some catching up... those are interesting shift points. I have my 6r shift on level ground under light load from 1st to 2nd at about 1500 rpm and 8mph, then 2nd to 3rd at about 1500 rpm and 15mph... I know we're talking apples and oranges but those #'s are so far apart.

Well, remember that I only have 4 gears to your 6. Even when laying on it, I get shifts around 5000rpm and I often want higher so gotta shift manually and shuffle-shift since I sent back that manual semi-manual vb. That's what I was doing the other day to generate a lot more heat. Thinking about getting another vb again since everything else is working properly now but man, I have spent so much money on this AOD already that the thought of another $6-700 at this point is scary.

 

[nvrstuk]

Agree 100% on shifts; just mentioned for curiosity how different they are.

 

[ntsqd]

I've successfully used emissions barrier fuel hose and PS/ATF cooler hose on Push-lock/Barb-tite hose ends. I will not hesitate to do so again.

Initially I was impressed with FC332 hose (Aeroquip's hose for this type of hose end), but it hasn't aged well and I don't use it any more.

I use the T&B ties because of how narrow they are. I feel that a normal width tie is too wide and might cause the very cut hose liner I'm trying to avoid.

 

[kman67]

Ok, so I had some time today and I am done but it did not go as quickly as planned. I wasted a ton of time this past week deciding how I wanted it mounted as I did not want to make any new holes and the footprint of the holes is VERY different.

But after some brainwork, I got it to work while also increasing the airflow around the unit (with the previous I used square tubing so the sides were blocked. Not sure if that will matter but I figure I might as well get the max possible out of this insane cooler.

once done with that, the new lines were pretty easy. Measure, measure, measure some more, cut, flare, bend, measure, cut flare bend...

I also decided not to use my 3D printed line brackets as I'm okay with them being more rigid this time around with the felxible hose I added.

Here are the lines from the trans with the flex hose added and yes, these are transmission fluid lines (I know you guys who think of everything will ask).
View attachment 952394

Here is the next section:
View attachment 952396

And the final section with the cooler:
View attachment 952397

I also had to add a 10A diode in my power supply to the fan as I noticed I've been getting back feed from the fan when it's running when I shut the engine off. VERY frustrating and took some good thought to figure out what was causing it.

Couldn't go for a drive but I did run a warmup cycle to make sure no leaks and will have to add another quart before I go for a drive but a little rainy today.

Looks great! What fitting did you use between the hard lines and hose? I need to do something like this.

 

[ntsqd]

I like to do it like this:
This bulkhead fitting stuck thru a tab or an existing hole and held in place with a bulkhead nut.
This type of hose end to connect the hose to the fitting above. They're available in bends as well as straights.
This type of tube nut & tube sleeve to connect the hard-line to the bulkhead fitting above.
Example pic, trans cooler lines on my Wagon project.
It's not inexpensive as the costs of all of those pieces adds up, but I've had the least problems long term by doing it this way.

 

[ba123]

Looks great! What fitting did you use between the hard lines and hose? I need to do something like this.

Thanks!

I really hate compression fittings but those would be the easiest. What I hate about them is that they have to be perfect, which can be difficult to do when on an installed vehicle and if they are not perfect, you're going to have to start over with a new fitting and possibly a new hard line. When they work, they do work but when they don't, they don't.

I like flared fittings. They just work, and they work every damn time. So, I flare my hard lines to 37° with an an tube nut and sleeve. I have never had one really leak and it it looks like it might, you jut tighten slightly more. That does require a flare tool that will do 37° but again, worth it.

The tube sleeves and fittings I've used the most of and loved are Fragola but the last time I needed just a couple I tried the Evil Energy ones from Amazon and those worked great as well.

Fragola nuts and sleeves x10:
481806-BL-10 -- I got them from Summit but looks like Amazon has them as well:

Amazon.com: FRAGOLA Fitting, Tube Nut, 6 an, 3/8 in Tube, Aluminum, Black Anodize, Set of 10 : Automotive

Buy FRAGOLA Fitting, Tube Nut, 6 an, 3/8 in Tube, Aluminum, Black Anodize, Set of 10: Fittings & Adapters - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

481906-BL-10

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087RLD4Q4/?tag=classicbroncos-20

Evil x2 each:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B1D6JKTB/?tag=classicbroncos-20

The barbed fittings I got were just generic foreign but seem great:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FLJCZX42/?tag=classicbroncos-20

Again, the more simple way would be to use a compression like this one (CLICK HERE OR THE PIC)

 

[Broncobowsher]

I don't like the sharp barbed fittings into barrier hose. If it damages the liner then there goes the benefit of the barrier hose. The hose makers will specify the bulge fittings. That is a smooth fitting with a bulge a the tip to prevent the hose from blowing off.

but that is just me being OCD about hoses.

 

[ntsqd]

It is a concern with the Push-lock type of fitting, but experience has shown it to not be a problem over several years of DD use at TBI pressures.

 

[ba123]

Yeah, I wasn't worried about my choices until putting it on...didn't realize the barbs were sharp until then.

Thoughts on those barbs and this hose I used? This is the hose that Derale supplied for my first kit. They included clamps and the an barbs they supplied are almost as sharp...I only had one of the male an one I needed since I used the other and needed four total anyway to minimize fittings.
https://continental-engineparts.com...ts/product-range/transmission-oil-cooler-hose

And I do worry about pressure as I'm almost at 100 psi.

And if I were to ever change this I'd just use AN steel braided line and fittings. Only reason I didn't is I only had two fittings and didn't need anything else from Summit. Hard to order $20 worth of stuff and pay $10 shipping.

 

[ntsqd]

There's two kinds of braided SS hose, that with a rubber liner and that with a teflon liner. I don't see the rubber lined stuff as a step up from the hose made specifically for this use.

It isn't just the sharpness of the barbs, it is also their diameter. The OD is larger than the more common hose barb fitting. This is the secret to how this system works, but it also can make it easier to cut the hose liner. Most ideal is to use the hose specifically made for use with these fittings. Aeroquip's FC332 hose is one of them. According to this page: https://hosewarehouse.com/products/fc332 the -06 (3/8") hose has a working pressure limit of 300 psi and a burst pressure rating of 1200 psi. Temperature limit is 300°F, which might be a bit low.

 

[ba123]

No, if I used stainless braided ptfe hose, it would be with an fittings, not barbs.

I have the hose and half the fittings I need.

 

[ba123]

Darnit. One side of one hose is leaking.

Might have to order a couple more an braided hose ends and do it the right way.

 

[ba123]

Soooo, been driving the Bronco all over lately and seems like on tough drives, the trans still gets hot, even with this crazy cooler.

So I decided to design a bracket that might allow more air into the underside.


It’s the same 2” in the rear and now 4” in the front.



Only issue is that it’s closer than I expected to the rear diff.


I mean I think worst case it messes up the fan and unlikely to mess up the cooler itself but it’s a risk.

Anyone have any thoughts on this? No crazy wheeling planned but not sure what else I could do here! I could put in larger bump stops but I need to know if this does the trick or not. And I made it so I could easily add an air dam/scoop to direct even more air.

 

[bronco italiano]

Just guessing here, I didn't realize originally the fuel tank is right behind. Perhaps some of the military jet-jocks can chime in on airflow. Almost seems like air can "pocket" in that area and not really escape easily so you have a little hot-pocket

 

[ba123]

Just guessing here, I didn't realize originally the fuel tank is right behind. Perhaps some of the military jet-jocks can chime in on airflow. Almost seems like air can "pocket" in that area and not really escape easily so you have a little hot-pocket

Yeah, I know but I don’t have anywhere else I can fit this thing. Maybe in a wheel well but would be tight and might get rocks.

I should prob wrap my muffler too but honestly, I get the heat when I’m driving fast so not sure how much heat is going to pool when going 50+.

I’m at a loss if this doesn’t do the trick but then again, I don’t know if I can keep it this way.

 

[ntsqd]

Why can't it be up front where it can get clean, cold air? By the time that the air gets there it's already significantly warmer than ambient.

 

[nvrstuk]

Maybe btw the frame rails under the radiator? I put mine there 15 yrs ago and about 5 yrs later someone told me that the Baja Broncos had them mounted there.

Mine is front of the radiator now but I think this winter it's going back underneath... I had a super strong skid plate under it.

 

[ba123]

Ok, so correction that I realized...it only gets super hot when working hard on super hot days I think.

I originally had my lines going to the front with a radiator cooler as well as an additional and it got WAY hotter. Then I went remote back here and it cooled significantly more but still got hot at times and then the this race cooler and hot occasionally. I think the last day it got hot was when I drove over 17 to Santa Cruz and on the way back is was like 95° and trans got way hot. I just want it to never get that hot (got to 246°). It should not be getting that hot! The Amsoil fluid in there can take it but that is damn hot.

 

[Yeller]

Can’t remember…. Do you still have converter lock up? Been a long time, can’t remember on an AOD if it can be left not functioning or not. If it isn’t locking up that could be a huge contributor.

 

[ba123]

Can’t remember…. Do you still have converter lock up? Been a long time, can’t remember on an AOD if it can be left not functioning or not. If it isn’t locking up that could be a huge contributor.

no, my problem stems from high stall with a small converter, and a non-lockup solid input shaft.

Pretty sure that if I lowered my stall with a larger converter I’d have no issues but I don’t want to pull this thing again unless I’m putting something else in.