Advice, please: Borrowing Trouble vs Preventive Maintenance

[Bronco_007]

1974
302
V-belt dress
Guessing it has ~137k miles
I’m owner 3. Had her for four years.

I’m installing a 1” BL and swapping out factory wiring for a new Painless harness.

After disconnecting the filler hose, I went to check the other rubber, radiator specifically. The upper hose looks to be within the past decade, likely PO. The lower hose is ugly - dry and hard (harder than the spring inside) - so I’m replacing all the heater hoses.

Drained the coolant. Pulled the radiator. Oh, what the hell, let’s install a 180 degree thermostat while I’m at it. Pulled the t-housing and there’s a purdy, made in the USA, 180 thermostat already there. Hmmmmm…

I’d considered, since the coolant is drained, replacing the water pump with a modern high-flow, even though the stock one is working fine and not leaking at all. If I’m that deep, might as well do the timing chain, right? And if I do that, might as well drop the oil pan (which I’m 99% sure is still factory sealed) for a repaint - even though it isn’t leaking either since I’m breaking that seal when I pull the timing chain cover. The thermostat, water pump, and timing chain housings are all factory. But that lovely little 180 thermo was in there…

We know how the road to hell is paved. The water pump is stock. No idea the last time the timing chain was done, if ever.

What would you do?

 

[Sheehanigans]

If you’re gonna do the timing chain you ought to throw a cam in there!

And that’ll be a new lifters, intake R&R, and maybe rockers. It’s just time and money, but isn’t that the point?

 

[Sheehanigans]

Long term I don’t think I’ve ever regretted a “while you’re in there” scope creep. Short term, for sure.

 

[73azbronco]

Thats OK, $30,000 later, my original oil pan leak is fixed.

 

[nvrstuk]

Thats OK, $30,000 later, my original oil pan leak is fixed.

... "only $30,000 later"...

 

[ntsqd]

If I have good reason to think that a part is bad or about to go bad I'll go in after it. Otherwise I leave it alone.

It's the modifications that get me. I sometimes call my FSB "Snowball". I'm guessing y'all can guess why.

 

[Chiclassics]

All good preventative measures.

 

[jscheier]

I try to base mine on these thoughts:

1. If you think a part is old / worn, and it won't break the bank to handle it, replace it.
2. If you have to tear whatever you are working on back down again to get to the part in question, replace it (Just did disc brake conversion, so did all bearings, seals & kingpins "while I was in there").
3. If your wife isn't watching the budget, replace it

 

[ntsqd]

I forgot to add that the current quality of new parts is suspect enough that I don't replace parts just because they're old. Sometimes the old, used part is a better part than the brand new part. Sadly, that trend seems to be growing.

 

[jscheier]

I forgot to add that the current quality of new parts is suspect enough that I don't replace parts just because they're old. Sometimes the old, used part is a better part than the brand new part. Sadly, that trend seems to be growing.

I've run into that quite recently (same forum, different post). Not planning to do it, but choosing to do it while you are in there, and then getting screwed because the new part is crap... always fun.

 

[Timmy390]

Down the rabbit hole you go......

Tim

 

[Bronco_007]

Nabbed the Flow Kooler from WH. Any recommendations for the timing chain? Who’s had good results from their purchase?

Also, thanks to everyone for responding.

 

[Grey owl]

If your timing gears are original the top one may be the nylon gear used back in the day. Change it out.
I just did a similar project to my 69 302 with 62k original miles. I did timing gears and chain, added mild RV cam, new oil pump. I also added roller rockers on a set of aluminum heads and a low rise intake.
It added just enough power to make it nicer to drive.

 

[73azbronco]

I forgot to add that the current quality of new parts is suspect enough that I don't replace parts just because they're old. Sometimes the old, used part is a better part than the brand new part. Sadly, that trend seems to be growing.

all my oem dash switches are back in use, headlight switch and ignition switch particularly would never work right from vendors.

 

[Bronco_007]

all my oem dash switches are back in use, headlight switch and ignition switch particularly would never work right from vendors.

Did you replace your wiring harness but keep the OEM switches?

 

[ntsqd]

Cloyes is the old school name brand in timing chains.
I'm of the opinion that not every engine needs a double roller timing chain, some are perfectly fine with the Morse type chain - which seem to be less likely to stretch over the long term. If you're not going to rev it up high I'd go with the Morse type.

 

[nvrstuk]

I forgot to add that the current quality of new parts is suspect enough that I don't replace parts just because they're old. Sometimes the old, used part is a better part than the brand new part. Sadly, that trend seems to be growing.

Old OE alternators are better than most if not 90% of "new" out there!

I went thru 3 in one yr... All Napa

 

[ntsqd]

My project vehicles get their starters and alternators sent to the local skilled rebuilder of Ag, construction, and marine electrical components.

 

[nvrstuk]

You can do that because you have a place within 100miles that can do it! We don't anymore.

Took mine down to the ONLY place that can do growler tests, rebuild etc & was going to have them rebuild the 4G (because no rebuild shops nationwide OR rebuild shops had parts so I could do it & I actually called 10 places & gave up... so I bought their last one they had specially build for a customer a year ago...
Drove home & NO OUTPUT.. at all.


So that doesn't work up here! lol

 

[ntsqd]

I'm sadly becoming quite aware of that privilege of mine. Might call them, Unit II in Saticoy, CA. If Mike answers the fone (unlikely, but possible) tell him I sent you. None of the other guys know me.