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I just pulled springs out and not the balls, think I should just buy new beings they are cheap and start there..? or buy rebuild kit and do it that way..?

So been un able to shift my transfercase at all and started tearing into today and found that when I pull the springs out of the top holes it shifts really smooth. put one spring back in,(either side), and I am back to no shifting. do I need to just buy new springs or do I have other issues...

drop it down from behind is the best way, speedo cable will feel like something is stopping you from dropping it down so just disconnect it forst and you are good to go.

Just thought I would put this out there. The shop I work at is doing a "overhaulin" type resto for a military man who is currently deployed. He has a 77 f150 that has been in his family and that he loves so his family got with a few local business owners,(including my boss), and now we are...

My transfer case is shot, no 4 wheel drive at all and in Oregon that is a bad thing!, Toms Bronco which is local wants 300 for a used one, I know that there is someone swapping a np435 w/ the 205 behind it or even people with parts rigs out here, cant bring my self to pay 3bills for a used...

depends on your intentions. If it is a wheeler and you plan on running it untill it dies then fixing and going again, then great - bedliner is for you. if you want to run it for a few months, weeks, years, whatever, then take it off and put some paint on to sell it then dont do it. I actually...

if you are talking body work as well then to be honest $1000 is cheap if it is a shop that will stand behind their work. my shop stands behind anything that we touch, meaning that it is done right, and we are at $50+ an hour depending on the job. when I did my doors,(and they were pretty much...

I am a wee bit south of you in medford.

I just got done with pulling my transfer case a few days ago and am wishing that I pulled the apdater with it. Bearings fell almost everywhere and it was just a pain. easy to pull either way but next time I am pulling all in one shot.

its not by any means reccomended or widley used but grab some fine steel wool and try a spot. I have used this trick before and actually worked pretty well. hate to tell you but you get what you pay for and with Macco you got it. good luck.

it is worth having, as stated above it can be removed with a grinder, heat, wire wheel, whatever best suits your needs and can easily be "spotted" in onceyour repairs are done.

looking for a T shift transfer case local so I dont have to pay shipping. I am in medford but within 100 miles and I am good to pick it up, wanting it to be in good working order and ready to drop in. can trade some paint/body work depending on where you are located or just buy. let me know. thanks

go to a body shop, tell them that you need some touch up paint for your rig, they should get your paint code, have one of their painters go and mix you some paint, tell them that you want it un-reduced so that it is thicker and will brush on better and cover better. this shouldnt be a problem...

In my experience, you as a first timer when it comes to painting a car have about a 80-90% chance of screwing up a base clear metallic job. Not saying that to be mean or doubt you but there are alot of things that actually go into laying paint out right and laying out clear as well. I have...

patch panels are way more work and way more invasive then simply welding up the holes with a small filler peice as stated before. thats the route i took but I am also a body/paint guy by trade so i may have an advantage there. I used a peice of 14g steel, cut just smaller then what i needed for...

that would be fun, have a few bugs to get out before a couple hour drive but good idea, keep us posted on what/when you decide to do.

drive, break, fix, repeat. kinda the story that i have going on and i love all of it

I have the wild horse 3.5 lift with the 11 pack rear spring. drives great on the road and flexes well offroad. very pleased with it for the money.

Everything is only worth what you would pay for it. It looks like you bought it so to you, it must have been worth it. Not trying to be a smart ass or anything, just stating a point. it looks like it is pretty much ready to drop right in and bolt down so that is a plus and will save you alot of...

with mine fuel starts coming out of the 2 vent hoses,(main tank) that i only have about 6" of hose coming off. this happens even when I am running off of fumes so my tank should easily accept fuel, you know. Is that the same problem you are having or no...?