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4 link, ORI's, narrowed D60w/only 2.5" lift, 5"+WB stretch, 2" floor lower, P/S....,

Speedrdr

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Checking things off my "to-do list" so after I receive my block, pistons and rods back from Ford I will hopefully just be able to hone the proper bore clearance, put it all back together drop it in and be running... just got tracking #'s from them this afternoon. YEA!!

Got my twin ARB all plumbed, wired and mounted behind my PS fender. Almost 3/8" clearnace to my tire rack. My air horn is all plumbed, mounted with it looking like it was done by someone over 12 yrs old this time. :) Gave up on mounting my 6r shift cable coming in from the front and over the top of the bellhousing. Too much cable and too many loops in it so I will build a new t-case skid plate that will offer some protection to it and the trans pan also.

Pics coming.

How often does a 14 bolt rear axle seal start leaking when the vehicle hasn't moved for 7 months??!! lol I've been under my rig probably once every 2-3 days the past month and nothing... now the inside of my tire has fresh gear oil running down it. With a puddle. I just pulled ORI's off last week and nothing! Oh well, easier fix here now than later.
Murphy has struck! Anytime something can go wrong, it will…usually at the most inoportune time.

Randy
 

Yeller

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That piece of sand finally got to just the right spot 😂

I need to find an oak tree. Mine are past due for a leak lol. My diff cover is leaking ever so slightly. I’m sure it’s thin, maybe even cracked on the bottom, it’s been shaved into a 13-1/2 bolt 1 rock at a time 🤭
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Talking about sand... I have already spent several minutes with a Qtip removing sand from the input shaft under and behind the seal so I thought I'd get a pic of what it looks like behind my converter!
...

This was taped off and sealed after I pulled the engine and b4 any other work got started.

Next is "Q-tipping" the splines and then the seal. Tape it all back up and air hose to remove all the sand off all the casting so it doesn't fall on the splines when installing then I seat the converter and fill the trans with sand! lol

Anybody every pull the front pump on a 6r from the frt? Do I need to gut the trans to remove the pump?
 

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Yeller

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I’ve not pulled a 6r but have pulled a few thousand pumps lol. I’d unbolt it and pull it. Should be no reason to have to gut the trans, it’s the last component to be installed.
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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That's what I've always done before. I tugged & tugged...
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Awww crap... lol

Guess the pic explains why I just couldn't pop it out earlier today! This guy was banging on those screwdrivers about 8 times before the pump moved.. (update- there's another reason)
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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So they make a slide hammer puller for this... maybe I can rig up a tube clamp on to my slide hammer and take out the pump w/o having to gut the trans completely... need the input shaft measurements. I'm sure no tubing I have will be the correct diameter. :)

I have not seen a 6r frt pump removed yet w/o the pan, lead frame and other guts removed... hmmm
Could be because they are doing an overhaul but they are going thru the entire trans but I can't prove that's why yet.

I have tried tugging both that I have sitting here but neither just "pops" out like the TH350's etc...

Pulling the trans isnt much at this point but sliding the pump out thr frt while I sit on the crossmember wouldn't be tough either!
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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I must have been looking it up and pm'd ya while you were posting this! :)
Thanks for the link and pic

Now I just have to find out 100% that there isn't some funky issue with just pulling the pump w/o disemboweling the rest of it.
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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I couldn't wait so I will see if this works... :)

Crude but all it has to do is pinch enough to not slide and ...

Didn't know I had so many pcs of DOM & assorted tubing! Found one within .050" so let's see.
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Well, got sidetracked by good weather but got out to the shop after dinner.

My ugly but functioning puller worked like it should but the front pump assembly only came forward about 1/2" and then stopped. It stopped so abruptly that I thought something must be stopping it. Glad I didn't just hammer away trying to force it!

Here's a couple pics. The "bridge" sits on top and it has to be removed for the pump to slide out.
Long time to load the videos but thanks Jon for allowing us to do that now! :)
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Moving on...
This is where the 460sb drama with FP (Ford Performance) started.

I am posting up a short dialog that occurred between this video last September of 2022 and yesterday, April 15, 2023 between myself & FP so I will have an accurate list of events for the record. This is my recording of what I heard when I put a slight load on the engine back in Sept and why I pulled it apart. It's clear in the video.

Next post is long (brief compared to all the "email conversations" but accurate. Needed a concise record of events.
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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I have appr. 13K miles on my 460sb and in the video you can hear the piston slap. Not typical where it gets quieter when you get heat soak. This noise never gets quieter or goes away.

Past warranty so pulled it. Pistons were sloppy in the bores. Bore gauge showed them overbored at .0062". Absolutely no taper in any bores. They were straight like they'd been bored that way which to me at the time didn't make sense.. Checked Ford Performance (FP) website and they advertised .005-.0055" as their skirt to wall clearance. Now it made sense. :(

So I went to Mahle's page to identify my pistons (piston mnfr) and they showed my 2812 alloy piston (Grafel coated) clearance as .0023" to max .003". That's when I called basic hot line ph contact # for FP and asked WTH? FP said they finish hone to .005"-.0055". I responded with why don't youuse the piston manufacturers specifications?

Then I called Mahle and we talked for half hour. Jason could not believe what FP was doing with their clearances. Engineer even said, "...are they trying a one size fits all final bore" because there are two pistons for this block. One for nitrous/boost and high detonation resistance which like typical race pistons (these Mahle spec at .005"-.0055") and expand to fit the clearance (I used to use nothing but these 30 yrs ago) and then my 2812 alloy piston which does not expand at all (well, less than .0003"). So FP overbored my block by .003"+ so I essentially started up a new engine with the equiv of 200,000 miles or more... and with short skirt stroker pistons you don't have much if any skirt on them so you get piston slap quicker/easier.

Ford (Marty) asked to see my pistons/rods back in Nov via email- as I'd moved "up the warranty/responsibilty ladder". I shipped them and they stated they were to spec (I'd told them this at least 5 times in emails). Then Marty called me (last personal phone contact ever) and he said we need to see the block (which I had asked for in several emails) and in Decrmber, FP sent a truck and my block ended up somewhere in a FP warehouse.

NOTHING HAPPENED FOR MONTHS even tho I was emailing once/week. Late Feb now. They said they were sending the block back because I had not warmed it up properly prior to loading it. All kinds of typical "your fault" accusations. Anyway, I gave them a hardnosed background of my experience, strokers I've built that have 150,000 miles plus, etc and a week later no tracking #'s & no block. Sent another email and they said that the "Engine Engineer" wanted to "remeasure my block" (personally I don't think he ever even looked at it before).

Still nothing-

I then sent emails all over the US and Europe trying to get in touch with Mark Rushbrook head of ALL of Ford Global Performance. Got some positive feedback from authors and racetrack guys all over the world and then an email from a guy who gave me the email addy of a supervisor who was the supervisor of the guy who wasn't getting anything done for months.

Snails pace to now.

Talked to another Mahle engineer named Adam (2 separate times) and he confirmed what I was saying and both the Mahle engineers know the FP guys I was dealing with.

Late March- FP told me they were going to have custom pistons made by Mahle for the approximate bore of my block. I will have to finish hone the block to fit when I get them FP says they expect them on May 28th. Then I will build it. I had a custom cam designed by Ed so that will be fun.

I wouldn't accept pistons as a settlement until they sonic bored the block to make sure it is usable. FP racing blocks can't be bored out as far as Dart blocks. I have the sonic measuring data below. Dave sent it to me April 15th. Block, old pistons & rods were shipped with tracking #'s last week.

Dave at FP said the new pistons are expected to arrive at FP on 4/28/23. Appr 4 weeks. Mahle told me several times that their lead time for custom pistons was 12-14 weeks. FP has a higher priority than I do.

There's a ton more but...
 

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Yeller

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I’ve been on the road for several weeks from doing some kicking over a situation of management fails at a colossal level, at least for our customers and this particular office. Sucks on both sides of it lol. Hopefully we make some good hires that we can help resolve this mess.
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Has anybody used these two piece wheel seals for a 14 bolt hub?

Look pretty trick & simple. Should eliminate what condition the surface of the spindle where the seal rides as a problem for leakage??
 

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Yeller

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Those seals look awesome, certainly can’t be worse. The biggest issues I’ve had aren’t about seal surface condition but sand cutting the surface. I think going to disc brakes aggravates the issue by exposing the seal to the elements vs being somewhat protected by the drum and backing plate.

Got a part number?
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Sure do. Bottom left on the pic. :)

I think your right about it being exposed to sand.


Going to saturate it in gear lube b4 I put it in. Don't want to melt the seal to seal surfaces
 

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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So my blocks here... I SWEAR, do these FP guys have ANY BRAINS?
Check out the liquid in the bottom of the plastic bin.... my gosh FP.

The cardboard shows no water staining but that's a couple inches of H2O in the bottom of the bin. How'd that get in there?

Was the block wrapped in plastic?No!!

Did they lose the lower timing/crank gear? Yes.

Did they lose the timing chain? Yes!

Did they pack it in water w/o plastic to protect it? YES. :( (it is water, not coolant mix)

WTH?? I mean- really? I am not making this up!

I mean I'm not a whiner but this is almost hard to believe...
 

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