4 link, ORI's, narrowed D60w/only 2.5" lift, 5"+WB stretch, 2" floor lower, P/S....,

[nvrstuk]

I don't believe you need more than 1 wideband. I have the choice of 1 or 2 and I run 1. You could always get another sensor and just swap the connector or get a second controller as well and run one to a gauge and compare the two but I think you're just gonna drive yourself crazy trying to understand the differences. Should be close enough.

As far as cylinder temp, you sure your timing is good? you also just might need to drive it a little to work everything out. Pretty sure my cylinder temps were a bit whacked at first and I spent too much time overthinking it. Although I also did have a bad ecu at first so don't remember my timeline right now.

All I know about my timing is at idle with my light I have about13-15btdc. (I will check it again also) that and the fuel pressure sensor.

He maxed timing at 36deg which for this engine is 5 deg too much, so that will change but I won't have a load on it till next Wed and we will change it then.

 

[nvrstuk]

I don't believe you need more than 1 wideband. I have the choice of 1 or 2 and I run 1. You could always get another sensor and just swap the connector or get a second controller as well and run one to a gauge and compare the two but I think you're just gonna drive yourself crazy trying to understand the differences. Should be close enough.

As far as cylinder temp, you sure your timing is good? you also just might need to drive it a little to work everything out. Pretty sure my cylinder temps were a bit whacked at first and I spent too much time overthinking it. Although I also did have a bad ecu at first so don't remember my timeline right now.

What I'm not understanding is why if the timing is off how it's not affecting all cylinders for heat issues, just 3 of them. Up until the latest tune, the timing was locked on static at 15deg.

 

[ba123]

Locked in static as in fixed timing or that is your fixed advance and then the ecu adjusts from there. There is a difference, not sure how your sys does it, but I'd assume it's similar in that you set a fixed timing for your engine, but that's just a starting point to make sure the engine and the ecu match so that what the ecu does is truly what the engine sees.

If you're still on fixed timing, you shouldn't be and I'd bet you're not.

 

[ntsqd]

How do the cylinders running hot align with the ignition system? Are all of the hot cyls on the + side of the wasted spark or all on the - side, or are they all mixed up?

Is it possible to set the base timing individually for each cylinder?

 

[nvrstuk]

Locked in static as in fixed timing or that is your fixed advance and then the ecu adjusts from there. There is a difference, not sure how your sys does it, but I'd assume it's similar in that you set a fixed timing for your engine, but that's just a starting point to make sure the engine and the ecu match so that what the ecu does is truly what the engine sees.

If you're still on fixed timing, you shouldn't be and I'd bet you're not.

I am not on the last 2 tunes.

He tried batch fire last night just to try to rule something??? out.

 

[nvrstuk]

How do the cylinders running hot align with the ignition system? Are all of the hot cyls on the + side of the wasted spark or all on the - side, or are they all mixed up?

Is it possible to set the base timing individually for each cylinder?

Yes, timing can be adj for each cyl. Correctly is above my pay grade.

I do not know if it's + or - but we tried batch fire last night-no difference except soooo lean I was pegged at 17afr on my wide band popping (backfiring) out the ps exhaust which never happened till he started leaning it out so much.

 

[ba123]

running at 17 afr shouldn't make it pop out the back. bad timing would. I could be totally wrong but I've messed a shot tom with my timing as well as my afr working though some of my own issues and I've had worse afr that that when things weren't responding correctly but never any popping. just runs like shit. not sure how lack of fuel would make it pop...just not wanna run.

Any chance your fixed timing isn't set correctly? For you, that would mean your settings on your crank trigger would be wrong since you're running wasted spark using only crank trigger. Maybe you already checked, but can you put it in fixed advance and check with a timing light that it matches?

 

[ntsqd]

By chance was the TDC mark verified to actually be at TDC?

I know that you've checked the timing, what 13 Brazillion times now?, but confirming that the timing light and the fixed timing agree sounds like an important step. Unless you've already done that?

 

[nvrstuk]

TDC already done several times TS.

Ben- no popping till he leaned it beyond lean AND he tried batch fire so I'm guessing fuel is igniting when it normally shouldn't be Like the last two times I've run it but never before.

The steps on the holley site for setting timing aren't step by step and I need EVERY step to be able to set timing at let's say 25 in the ECU to be able to check it with my timing light

 

[Speedrdr]

I’m trying to follow this post but it’s so far past me. I’ll keep following and try to learn from y’all.
Ain’t fixing to get rid of my 600 CFM carb though. It’s still simple enough for a simple mind like mine to understand.

Randy

 

[nvrstuk]

The instructions say stuff like lock out the induction. And yet there's no box or words or obvious places to that unless a 0-100 screen counts!

I will write up a good "How not to do it Brian's way, a step by step guide to Wasted Spark Terminator X installation on a big, small block Ford".

 

[nvrstuk]

Holley Terminator X, not quite "Plug & Play"

 

[Oldtimer]

I think the fine print says "Shrug & Pray"

 

[nvrstuk]

So tonight I find a good video on setting initial timing.

I'm following step by step on line and then my screen is totally different as I have the latest software and don't have the same drop down menus and options as Premier Motorsports who did the video so...

So, stuck again.

This is really getting old.

The fuel pressure sender is telling the ecu that it has 11 psi.

Getting closer under the hood. Have a couple 29ga sheetmetal covers on the cowl access howls.

 

[ntsqd]

.......

The fuel pressure sender is telling the ecu that it has 11 psi.

That's probably not a good thing. I'll guess that you have a reliable gauge on it and know better.

 

[nvrstuk]

Absolutely know it has 43#.

I put the guage back on but in the software I can't delete the sensor or it's reading. Wth?
Maybe I have to cycle the ignition but I am done.

 

[frdboy]

Holley doesn't use FP for any fuel calcs., it is only for data logging/info

 

[nvrstuk]

Thanks, I can let it flash all it wants then!

 

[Oldtimer]

If the FP sensor is reading 25%, how are the sensors doing that are used for fuel calcs?

 

[ba123]

It's irrelevant and not an actual reading I believe, just like in Megasquirt. I can see it in my MS logs and it's not right either, but it doesn't matter.

Holley says, "Holley EFI does not actively incorporate fuel pressure into it's fueling strategy."
(found here: https://www.holley.com/blog/post/explained_holley_efi_sensors_and_what_they_do/)