• Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

5.0 EFI runs like dookie. Need help, please!

onpier55

Full Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2017
Messages
340
Loc.
Roseville Ca
Glad to hear you got your problem solved Tim!

The burnt CEL circuit in the PCM is a problem that I never used to see but is becoming more common. Sometimes the trace is burnt on the board and sometimes the transistor for it is bad. Either way, it's a cheap fix.

VSS has almost no effect on tuning. The only thing that it is good for is to prevent stalling when coming to a stop with a manual trans. I can tune the stalling out if there is no VSS, but I definitely recommend keeping VSS with a manual.

In a situation like this with an unknown cam and injectors that lack tuning data, I would not opt for a mail-order tune. Instead, I would remote tune it.

With remote tuning, I am only dialing in the idle in real-time. After that, I show you how to datalog. You basically hit record and go out and drive it using real-world scenarios. The file that it spits out gets emailed to me. I review the file and modify the tune which I email back. That process repeats a couple of times until the numbers look good on my end and you are happy with it on your end. Then I buy the tuning hardware back and send the final tune to you on a permanent chip.

The biggest advantage a dyno has is that it is a safe environment to go wide-open throttle. It's also nice to have RWHP and TQ numbers, the tuning software is only able to calculate flywheel numbers but both are still good for bragging rights. The dyno provides better repeatability for WOT pulls, but street driving provides for more accurate loading that the vehicle will actually see, especially with how much 1 bronco can vary from another. So any good dyno tuner should actually spend more time driving it on the street and just using the dyno for WOT pulls.

This right here is why I’m so happy I went with the explorer swap.
 

Attachments

  • D928DB9C-0FED-4502-8CC1-272486655D4F.jpg
    D928DB9C-0FED-4502-8CC1-272486655D4F.jpg
    139 KB · Views: 61

bronco italiano

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 1, 2004
Messages
2,001
Get rid of your Pro M.
Those guys are a bunch of arrogant jerks.
Ripped me off for over 1,000.00.
Told me I had the wrong fuel pump and my electrical system (brand new Painless bronco specific) was garbage and so on.
The only thing that was garbage was their product and they would not cover it. Read their return policy closely. Rip off!!!
The pro M was the problem.
The Pro M garbage put my ecm in limp mode. This was confirmed by the maker of eec analyzer & binary editor and Shawn at AED, who tuned my bronco with Clint Garrity. Amazing FORD tuners.
 

Jfryjfry

Sr. Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2017
Messages
502
It sounds like this motor and setup ran great the last time it ran and now is not. Making sure you have a good tune is a great idea but I wonder if there isn’t another issue. 6 years is plenty of time for your injectors to get gummed or possibly plugged up.
Have you checked fuel pressure? Vacuum leaks? Booster leaks can cause all kinds of problems and be hard to track down. Make sure any sensors it’s using are working properly (that they are properly grounded and not dirty on the sensor end.)

It might not have the best cam and it might need a tune and the cel circuit might be boogered up but if it ran good before and now it doesn’t, then something changed.
 
OP
OP
tonytheplumber

tonytheplumber

Jr. Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2012
Messages
114
Loc.
Lowell, IN
Get rid of your Pro M.
Those guys are a bunch of arrogant jerks.
Ripped me off for over 1,000.00.
Told me I had the wrong fuel pump and my electrical system (brand new Painless bronco specific) was garbage and so on.
The only thing that was garbage was their product and they would not cover it. Read their return policy closely. Rip off!!!
The pro M was the problem.
The Pro M garbage put my ecm in limp mode. This was confirmed by the maker of eec analyzer & binary editor and Shawn at AED, who tuned my bronco with Clint Garrity. Amazing FORD tuners.

If the MAF is to blame, Garry should be able to spot that in his data logging. We shall see.
 
OP
OP
tonytheplumber

tonytheplumber

Jr. Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2012
Messages
114
Loc.
Lowell, IN
It sounds like this motor and setup ran great the last time it ran and now is not. Making sure you have a good tune is a great idea but I wonder if there isn’t another issue. 6 years is plenty of time for your injectors to get gummed or possibly plugged up.
Have you checked fuel pressure? Vacuum leaks? Booster leaks can cause all kinds of problems and be hard to track down. Make sure any sensors it’s using are working properly (that they are properly grounded and not dirty on the sensor end.)

It might not have the best cam and it might need a tune and the cel circuit might be boogered up but if it ran good before and now it doesn’t, then something changed.

I only have word of the motor running great from the acquaintance I purchased it from, who is now deceased. I never personally heard it run prior to purchasing it. Injectors are brand new Trick Flow TFX injectors from Summit (like, 2 weeks old).
Yes, the fuel pressure is 40 at idle, with the regulator under vacuum.
I have very minimal vacuum lines: fuel pressure reg, vacuum modulator, PCV valve. All other ports are capped.
I'm running hydro assist booster.
I can't verify sensor function without a scope (which I just got ahold of one today from a friend), and if one is throwing a code I cannot detect that since my CEL circuit in my ECU is dead, I cannot retrieve codes. Grounds are all solid as this is a fresh truck build. It is a Kentrol fiberglass body so all grounds are junctioned, not relying on old body grounds or 40 year old old braided grounds or anything of the sort.

I yanked the engine Sunday and dropped it at the machine shop today. I want the balance and the integrity of the internals confirmed before I proceed. I performed my own rebuilds in my younger years, but not this time. After I pick it up and reinstall it (with a different camshaft, I might add), I will begin this process again, using the scanner to read data.
 

Timmy390

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 1, 2011
Messages
5,648
Loc.
Conway, AR
Glad to hear your verifying how that motor was built and considering changing the cam. I think you'll be much happier with it in the end.

Some real nice cams out there. You want down low torque in the Bronco......Keep in mind it's not a Fox body Stang.....

Tim
 

Boss Hugg

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 8, 2010
Messages
2,159
Glad to hear your verifying how that motor was built and considering changing the cam. I think you'll be much happier with it in the end.

Some real nice cams out there. You want down low torque in the Bronco......Keep in mind it's not a Fox body Stang.....

Tim



I might be interested in the cam you’re pulling out. Depends on what it turns out to be.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
OP
OP
tonytheplumber

tonytheplumber

Jr. Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2012
Messages
114
Loc.
Lowell, IN
Glad to hear your verifying how that motor was built and considering changing the cam. I think you'll be much happier with it in the end.

Some real nice cams out there. You want down low torque in the Bronco......Keep in mind it's not a Fox body Stang.....

Tim

The engine builder said there are sooooo many more modern grinds available. He is not a fan of the alphabet cams. I am still running a 3000 RPM converter, so I do not want a cam that's all low end torque. This Bronco is meant to be a ripper. I don't do trails or crawling. Just sand dunes and street use. I may even be tempted to run it down the 1/4 mile.
 
OP
OP
tonytheplumber

tonytheplumber

Jr. Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2012
Messages
114
Loc.
Lowell, IN
Any word on what it is yet?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm so sorry for the delay. This turned into a disaster of sorts. A few of the bores had horrible scoring from a course honing stone, piston skirts were scored badly, crank looked like there was a spot that was welded previously and showing porosity. The bores were already .030 over and the mains and rods were .020 under= junk short block. The engine builder had a stock bore 5.0L block and a 347 kit sitting around from a prior project, so he smoked me a deal on the build. Kinda bitter about the old engine being trash, but I have no recourse since the acquaintance I bought it from is deceased.
Ended up that the cam was an E303. And my mysterious vibration is gone with the new engine, so that old POS was out of balance. Junk.

Anyway, I got the new setup installed and dyno tuned just in time for winter to arrive around here. I was able to take it for one quick and very cold ride and I will say it really has a sack of nuts now. Should be a fun summer in 2020 :cool:
 
Top