EFI & Explorer Serp Swap – (First Start - RUNS!)

[Timmy390]

xcntrk, what air filter is that?

Tim

 

[xcntrk]

xcntrk, what air filter is that?

Tim

Air filter EFI (11-80110) = $24.99

 

[toddz69]

Not the original motor. I didn't think you could even get a V8 in the 66, I thought they were all I6?

Anyway, motor is supposedly a 302 from a 69'. Also, looks like I'm not the only person who's had this problem with these Felpro gaskets, this is exactly what happened to me:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/thanks-felpro-sbf-intake-gasket-nightmare.586409/

V8s came along in March of '66.

And glad you found the issue. What a nightmare!

Todd Z.

 

[tacobronco]

I've gotten in the habit of using a cooling system pressure tester before I add coolant anytime I've been deep into a cooling system. Just have a cheap one from harbor freight, but it has saved me from several messy mistakes like this over the past few years.

 

[xcntrk]

I've gotten in the habit of using a cooling system pressure tester before I add coolant anytime I've been deep into a cooling system. Just have a cheap one from harbor freight, but it has saved me from several messy mistakes like this over the past few years.

Nice! that would have definitely raised the red flag. How much pressure do you push into the radiator? I presume I can just drill out a cap, throw an air valve on it and accomplish the same thing right? Or maybe use the radiator drain plug instead, probably easier.

 

[tacobronco]

Nice! that would have definitely raised the red flag. How much pressure do you push into the radiator? I presume I can just drill out a cap, throw an air valve on it and accomplish the same thing right? Or maybe use the radiator drain plug instead, probably easier.

I think you shouldn't put much more than 15 psi or so since that what our caps are usually rated to. You could use compressed air, but I would be VERY careful to monitor the pressure an not overdo it. Even though the cap should release and vent excess pressure, you could probably overwhelm it and cause damage if you had a large enough air source . And of course, if you use a modified cap to do it, you probably no longer have that acting as a relief valve. That's why the testers intended for this are nice - they are hand pumped, so you'd have to work really hard to overpressurize the system. I just pump it up, listen for any gross leaks, and then if there are none, let it sit at pressure for a few minutes and see if the pressure drops. I've found leaks in surprising places, everything from the drain plug that I forgot to tighten 3 weeks earlier when I was done draining the coolant at the start of the job, to loose hose clamps, tiny radiator leaks that were probably there before I started the job, etc. Much easier to fix then than after you filled the system and spilled a bunch of (nowdays) expensive coolant all over the garage floor.

 

[broncodriver99]

I think you shouldn't put much more than 15 psi or so since that what our caps are usually rated to. You could use compressed air, but I would be VERY careful to monitor the pressure an not overdo it. Even though the cap should release and vent excess pressure, you could probably overwhelm it and cause damage if you had a large enough air source . And of course, if you use a modified cap to do it, you probably no longer have that acting as a relief valve. That's why the testers intended for this are nice - they are hand pumped, so you'd have to work really hard to overpressurize the system. I just pump it up, listen for any gross leaks, and then if there are none, let it sit at pressure for a few minutes and see if the pressure drops. I've found leaks in surprising places, everything from the drain plug that I forgot to tighten 3 weeks earlier when I was done draining the coolant at the start of the job, to loose hose clamps, tiny radiator leaks that were probably there before I started the job, etc. Much easier to fix then than after you filled the system and spilled a bunch of (nowdays) expensive coolant all over the garage floor.

Excellent advice. I imagine 40-50 psi could blow out a few gaskets and cause an issue.

 

[Viperwolf1]

Excellent advice. I imagine 40-50 psi could blow out a few gaskets and cause an issue.

You could bust out a seam in the radiator or heater core.

 

[xcntrk]

Maybe I'll just stick to coolant. I have it all buttoned back up again, time to refill (fingers crossed)..

 

[chuzie]

Plus, depending on the type of rtv and/or adhesive you used, you may want to wait 24hrs for cure before operating or pressure testing.

 

[broncoitis]

xcntrk,

Glad that you figured out the problem as well! Sucks having to pull all that apart again after you have just done it. I have done it a couple times and each time sucked all the same.

Engine compartment looks really nice. Awesome job you should be proud how it came out. Nobody has mentioned this so far but if your running the Explorer front serp, how the heck are you using the Saginaw Pump? Is there a some way to make it work? Did not think that it was an option!

 

[xcntrk]

xcntrk,

Glad that you figured out the problem as well! Sucks having to pull all that apart again after you have just done it. I have done it a couple times and each time sucked all the same.

Engine compartment looks really nice. Awesome job you should be proud how it came out. Nobody has mentioned this so far but if your running the Explorer front serp, how the heck are you using the Saginaw Pump? Is there a some way to make it work? Did not think that it was an option!

Thanks!!!

Wild Horses makes a kit to use the Sag with the Explorer serp. It's rather new and thus far "unproven"? In my experience it was far from bolt on. I had to modify it significantly including fabricate new spacers to get proper alignment of the pump. But overall I'm thrilled to run a Saginaw on the Serp setup! No more squealing and great steering power I hope!

http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Explorer5SaginawDelphiPumpKitnonAC

But honestly it's the electric fan setup I'm most proud of. Not many have caught on to all that's going on with the e-fan. It's rather elaborate and once I get it running I plan to post up my results. I hope to be that guy that proves electric fans are in fact superior and can work very well on a V8 powered EB.

 

[broncoitis]

Thanks!!!

Wild Horses makes a kit to use the Sag with the Explorer serp. It's rather new and thus far "unproven"? In my experience it was far from bolt on. I had to modify it significantly including fabricate new spacers to get proper alignment of the pump. But overall I'm thrilled to run a Saginaw on the Serp setup! No more squealing and great steering power I hope!

http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Explorer5SaginawDelphiPumpKitnonAC

But honestly it's the electric fan setup I'm most proud of. Not many have caught on to all that's going on with the e-fan. It's rather elaborate and once I get it running I plan to post up my results. I hope to be that guy that proves electric fans are in fact superior and can work very well on a V8 powered EB.

I noticed the electric fan as well! I think if it were integrated into a proper shroud that covers the entire surface area of the radiator it would be even better but I think that it will get the job done just fine. I think that the real test will be if you go off road! Either way a good job on the engine setup!

 

[xcntrk]

Update:

It starts and runs! Seems to idle along pretty smoothly too. But, I do have a few problems that I need to work out.

1. Getting some weird codes: 81,82,83,84,85 all KOEO. No CM codes.
2. I run the BCB EFI throttle setup. It doesn’t feel very smooth and motor seems slow to return to idle speed when you stab the throttle. Not sure if that’s the throttle of another issue.
3. My Serp belt is jumping on occasion. This is really freaking me out. I change out the idle puller to a different style I had kicking around. This seemed to help but can still get it to jump on occasion. Something is not aligned correctly and I’m thinking it’s flex from the WH Saginaw bracket :|
4. My electric fan (Derale) and fan controller (Painless) seem to have an incompatibility. The fan controller has an ability to turn the fan on at 50% power then progressively increase speed as the temp goes up. But the Derale doesn’t seem to like the half power and is making some weird noises at that setting. Once it ramps up to full power it runs and sounds fine. So I’ll probably have to ditch that 50% startup and just go full power when the temp reaches 180.
5. Fuel pressure hovers around 35psi on an inline pressure gauge installed on the fuel line. I’m using the stock (mustang) pressure regulator and was expecting closer to 40psi pressure. Could this be a problem?
6. Lastly, I still have a coolant leak but this time it’s from those damn mustang intake heater tubes. It’s leaking up through where it screws into the intake. I tried to line some RTV in that area but it’s still leaking. Might try some more, but overall not a good fix. Might have to ditch those nice heater tubes and go back to rubber line.

 

[chuzie]

Those codes are normal for emissions removal.

Is the throttle slow to return with the cable disconnected?

35psi is fine. Depends on your vac though. Pull the vac line from the regulator and see if it goes up.

 

[broncoitis]

Well, the good thing is that it is running! As for the fuel pressure, 35 psi is about where it is gonna run. That is where my gauge is usually pointing from what I recall. Would not be surprised at all if the flex could be coming from the Saginaw setup. Compared to the factory bracket which is all one piece there are obviously a lot of areas with the setup that could maybe cause some flex issues.

Good thing is that you are moving forward! ;D

 

[sizemoremk]

So how is the replacement for the leaky intake gasket working out?

I had the same issue on my 1969 302 in a mustang, and I'm pretty sure I used the same small port gasket you pictured twice now and the first time both side leaked, the second time passenger side began to gush out after a few trips.

The second set seemed to seal OK for a couple of 5-20 mile trips and several long warmup cycles until the second gasket let go this afternoon...

Just curious if yours has held up to a few decent trips?

 

[ricky]

its been said several time's..but nice engine bay! very clean ! what water reservoir is that on the drivers side? out of an explorer as well?

glad you got the water leaks from the intake gasket figured out..on the heater tubes,how tight did you get the "nut" where it goes into the intake? I usually put a small wrap of Teflon tape on the threads..but I have seen these leak before,after too many times being taken out of the intake,etc figure out your belt issue? i'm guessing the explorer pump does not have enough strength,or power for the bronco setup? sorry for the "newbie" question..but curious as I am wanting to do this swap as well..good luck with the leak!

 

[xcntrk]

So how is the replacement for the leaky intake gasket working out?

It's working fantastic once you get the right gasket in place. My whole issue was using the wrong (big water port) gasket. With the small port in place and properly installed, I'm 100% sealed with no leaks and fantastic cooling.

its been said several time's..but nice engine bay! very clean ! what water reservoir is that on the drivers side? out of an explorer as well?

glad you got the water leaks from the intake gasket figured out..on the heater tubes,how tight did you get the "nut" where it goes into the intake? I usually put a small wrap of Teflon tape on the threads..but I have seen these leak before,after too many times being taken out of the intake,etc figure out your belt issue? i'm guessing the explorer pump does not have enough strength,or power for the bronco setup? sorry for the "newbie" question..but curious as I am wanting to do this swap as well..good luck with the leak!

That's the f-series truck dual reservoir for both overflow and windshield cleaner.

The Mustang heater tubes work great if you get a non-leaking set. I think there's an internal o-ring on the large "nut" where it interfaces with the intake keeping it from leaking but also allowing that nut to spin on the heater tube (for installation). My original set I had powder coated and therefore exposed to 400 degree bake in the oven. That must have compromised that o-ring and resulted in it leaking right there between the nut and tube. I purchased a brand-new factor FOMOCO set and it works 100% leak free ;D

My only remaining issue is the crappy throttle cable. I've been messing with the BCB throttle bracket and setup trying to get full range of TB motion without having super-sensitive throttle response. I've tried the progressive throttle modification (viper wolf) and that helped but the travel of that cable is still rough and not smooth. Slow to raise the pedal off the floor and that's with excessive return springs on the BCB bracket. I finally call uncle and ordered a Lokar throttle setup that will pull from the rear. Hopefully I have better luck with that setup moreover the BCB unit.

 

[skerrybronco]

its been said several time's..but nice engine bay! very clean ! what water reservoir is that on the drivers side? out of an explorer as well?

heres the part at o'really's, click on compatibility and they show you all the vehicles that have the part, if available at a scrap yard, I'm looking for the part myself but nothing around my area that old, I will probably buy new.....

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...ck=Search_e7tz17618b_-1_-1&keyword=e7tz17618b