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Boring a 302 (Is .060 too much)?

langester

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I have a 302 that came with my Bronco. I never heard it run, the p.o. said he fired it up and it had a knock. Long story short, I tore it down and it needs bored out again. The pistons are .040 so I assume .060 is next. I don't want overheating issues so I am looking for suggestions. Proceed and bore it or abandon and find another block. The motor is a Mexican 302 from 73 if I got the date code right.
Thanks in advance!
 

Timmy390

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JMO but I wouldn't put a dime into a 73 block that needs to be punched .060 over. It's end of live. I would find a "new" block out of a running Explorer. You get the benefits of one piece rear main seal and it will be a roller block. Move all the carb items and front dress (including water pump) over from the old engine and you will be set. You would have to change the distributor gear as well. Flywheel/flex plate too.

EFI engines run forever. Pulled my 351W from a running 96 E350 and once tore down, it only had .008 and .009 of wear. Could have just ran it as is but went .020 over.

Tim
 

Broncobowsher

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Time is up on that block. The gamble that it will take a .060 overbore just isn't a good one.
 

savage

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This question has been ask for years, and it seems to be split. I think it all depends on the shop doing the work. Where I live, I went with a shop that has been building ford engines for 50 plus years, and had them rebuild my 74 302, when they said they were going to bore it .060 over, I question them on that, and they said no problem, it is a Mexican block. So far no over heating problems and it's a strong runner. If its in your budget a roller block would be nice.
 

DirtDonk

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It depends more on the block than the shop. Anyone can bore it and get lucky, and the Mexican block is presumed to be more consistently cast and have thick cylinder liners, but I would not do any re-bore over the usual until the shop did a "sonic check" of every cylinder.

Don't remember what it costs these days. Just had it done, but forgot the itemized cost, but it's not too much to add to the cost of a rebuild vs getting a block with too-thin cylinder walls.
That said, and just "generally speaking" the 302's were not considered to be the problem the 351's were. Many shops won't do a 60-over on a 351W that would not have any question of doing the same thing to a 302.
Still, even with a 302 it's cheap insurance to sonic check to make sure.

A friend ran a 60-over 302 for awhile with no real trouble that he didn't cause himself. But it did run hot after the rebuild. Not super hot, and it ran for years. But it always ran "warmer" than prior to the rebuild. Could have been a number of factors, but the fact that it was overbored at least has to be considered.

Good luck either way you go.

Paul
 
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langester

langester

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I appreciate the input! Not sure what I am going to do at this point. Just like most folks money is tight too. I am a ways off from needing a motor, so I still have time to look around. What years of motors should I keep an eye out for? Do I have to run sensors on the newer blocks. I prefer carbureted motors and no electronics , except the distributor.
Thanks in advance!
 

savage

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I agree it depends on the block, but I would trust a shop that's been doing 302 block for years and have a good reputation working on them to.;D
 
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langester

langester

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I talked to the local guy today and he said "no problem". I trust him but I always like to check around before I follow through. You guys are always spot on with your information and I appreciate that!
Thanks everybody!
 
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langester

langester

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I will definitely have him check the block before I do anything too. Thanks for that info Paul!
 

bax

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Dont go 60. Just dont do it. Your about to spend money. The block is the cheapest.
Hell if money is tight bore another block to fit your 40 overused pistons. If you were close I would give you a block. Hell they made a bunch of them. Its not like your looking for a side oiler 427 or something like that.
 
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langester

langester

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Thanks bax ,
I appreciate it, like I said I have time to look around. The last thing I want is an expensive boat anchor.
 

sykanr0ng

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Most of what I've been told over the years has been to bore a small block Ford no more than .030"

Ford used a thinner wall casting for their blocks than Chebby, and .060" is pushing the limit for the Chebby blocks.

When you can find a block on CL for $50 why throw money away boring a casting too big?

They are not too costly at the junkyard either.
 
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langester

langester

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Bax,
I saw that today, Im only 7hrs away and $300 short! Gotta save up some green first.
Good luck with the 427! Hope ya get one!
 

bax

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Ive had one before. (427) their just great. wish I had another one but I am more than 300 short and way too far away.
 

TN1776

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I would not do it, you're throwing good money after bad.
Later fox-body Mustang blocks, and Explorer 5.0 blocks are all over the place. My father bought a complete, running 5.0 Explorer with a blown transmission. He paid around $1000 for the whole vehicle. The engine was in great shape internally, and ran perfectly. The only reason that he rebuilt it was because he was after power (it went into a hot rod). Otherwise I have no doubt it would have lasted for many years just the way it was.
 

fordguy

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the other thing to consider is flat tappet cams are really hard to break in right these days. they took something out of oil, cant remember, but you have to use an additive. my engine builder says a lot of his cam suppliers will not warranty flat tappet cams. roller is easier and way better. you can get roller engines out of u pull it yards really cheap.
 
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