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Ford 6R80 6 spd
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Dan Wheeler's 69 4R70W/Atlas Build Thread
- Thread starter DanWheeler
- Start date
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DanWheeler
Bronco Guru
Yesterday was the first time taking the Bronco offroad with the new transmission.
I have never wheeled with an automatic and all I can say is I dont know if what I did previously with a manual transmission is "wheeling" or what I'm doing now with an automatic transmission is "wheeling" - I just know they are so incredibly different which must mean ONE of them is NOT wheeling.
Yesterday was also the first day I took the Bronco on the freeway and wow what a difference. I flipped the OD-cancel switch going about 60 to remind me where the RPMs used to be before overdrive and it's a huge difference.
I have never wheeled with an automatic and all I can say is I dont know if what I did previously with a manual transmission is "wheeling" or what I'm doing now with an automatic transmission is "wheeling" - I just know they are so incredibly different which must mean ONE of them is NOT wheeling.
Yesterday was also the first day I took the Bronco on the freeway and wow what a difference. I flipped the OD-cancel switch going about 60 to remind me where the RPMs used to be before overdrive and it's a huge difference.
Canuck
Jr. Member
Nice work Dan. I have just started the same mod on my 74, but useing a NP205 transfer case . Same problems with the TPS. I am useing an Edelbrock 4 barrel and trying to decide what TPS to fit to it.
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DanWheeler
Bronco Guru
I had a hard time finding a TPS locally with a lever on it. I bought one without a lever and tried to build something that fit into the TPS but it was sloppy.
I ended up getting a TPS from AutoZone that was $25 with a lifetime warranty and it had the proper lever set up.
I still have it and the bracket I made. I recently converted to EFI so dont need it anymore.
If I remember correctly, the lowest voltage setting wasn't within range of where it was supposed to be in the software. Can't remember if that was my first TPS or my second from AutoZone.
let me know if you want pics of the bracket I made. There's not much to it.
I ended up getting a TPS from AutoZone that was $25 with a lifetime warranty and it had the proper lever set up.
I still have it and the bracket I made. I recently converted to EFI so dont need it anymore.
If I remember correctly, the lowest voltage setting wasn't within range of where it was supposed to be in the software. Can't remember if that was my first TPS or my second from AutoZone.
let me know if you want pics of the bracket I made. There's not much to it.
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DanWheeler
Bronco Guru
looked through all my pictures but couldn't find any of the bracket. It was nothing to write home about anyway.
just follow the TPS retrofit instructions here:
http://www.becontrols.com/tech/tpsretro.htm
RustyShackelfor
Bronco Guru
Sorry but you said the front driveshaft from a 90's explorer. Square or round body?
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DanWheeler
Bronco Guru
I think they were square body. TTB (Twin Traction Beam) axles. You'll recognize it when you see it. Lots of them in the junkyard.
RustyShackelfor
Bronco Guru
Thanks. I wanted to make sure I puleld a driveshaft from the right kind.
RustyShackelfor
Bronco Guru
Did you like the pieced together exhaust like that as compared to having it bent somewhere? or what is the deal with it?
thanks
thanks
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DanWheeler
Bronco Guru
well i'd never welded up my own exhaust before but so far so good.
spend your time or spend your money. either way works.
Doing it myself, I was able to make it so I can remove it in pieces which is handy. I also took the time to get it tucked under there better than a shop probably would and put things exactly where I wanted them.
i'm very happy with it - if you know how to weld i'd say go for it. Savings over a shop doing it are probably in the $2-300 range maybe?
carter2772
Bronco Guru
Do you have a bender and die's? if so what size? Tig or mig? size wire?
Thinking of doing mine as well, but have never welded exhaust.
Thinking of doing mine as well, but have never welded exhaust.
RustyShackelfor
Bronco Guru
how much did it cost you to do it that way, if you dont mind me asking.
I had thought about doing this but here is my problem with it. Every place you weld will rust out unless you have it coated somewhere, that will negate any money you save. or am I way off?
I had thought about doing this but here is my problem with it. Every place you weld will rust out unless you have it coated somewhere, that will negate any money you save. or am I way off?
carter2772
Bronco Guru
I think it is rare for exhaust shops to coat their welds. All the exhaust I have had done, none have coated their welds, or even offered to. My last exhaust has a little bit of rust on the welds now, 2 years old, pipes are fine. Pipes are aluminised though.
RustyShackelfor
Bronco Guru
thats what I'm saying, though. On most exhausts you will only have welds at the muffler, unless you clamp. I would at least spray some high heat aluminum paint on the welds.
I have thought about doing this and that is my concern about it.
I have thought about doing this and that is my concern about it.
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DanWheeler
Bronco Guru
here's my parts list from Summit. Includes headers and muffler. I had a couple pieces of the straight pipe left over and 1 or 2 U bends.
I dont have a bender or dies or anything. if you read back in the thread you can see how I used the pre-bent U pieces the piece together what I needed to make the bends.
HED-88400 (CA)HEADERS FORD 260-302 SHORT C Shipped on
5/19/2009 $153.95 1 $153.95
MPE-10768 Y-COLLECTOR C Shipped on
5/19/2009 $26.95 1 $26.95
MPE-12616 MUFFLER A Shipped on
5/19/2009 $69.95 1 $69.95
SUM-622003 U-BEND 2 1/2" 5" - 12" 12" C Shipped on
5/19/2009 $19.95 4 $79.80
SUM-630550 SWIVEL EXHAUST HANGER C Shipped on
5/19/2009 $5.95 5 $29.75
SUM-640025 ALUMINIZED PIPE 2.50 X 4 FEET B Shipped on
5/19/2009 $13.95 4 $55.80
SUM-G4625 MUFFLER CLAMP-2 1/2IN HVY DUTY E Shipped on
5/28/2009 $2.88 5 $14.40
HED-21123 (CA) BALL/SOCKET REDUCER A Shipped on
9/1/2009 $21.95 1 $21.95
I dont have a bender or dies or anything. if you read back in the thread you can see how I used the pre-bent U pieces the piece together what I needed to make the bends.
HED-88400 (CA)HEADERS FORD 260-302 SHORT C Shipped on
5/19/2009 $153.95 1 $153.95
MPE-10768 Y-COLLECTOR C Shipped on
5/19/2009 $26.95 1 $26.95
MPE-12616 MUFFLER A Shipped on
5/19/2009 $69.95 1 $69.95
SUM-622003 U-BEND 2 1/2" 5" - 12" 12" C Shipped on
5/19/2009 $19.95 4 $79.80
SUM-630550 SWIVEL EXHAUST HANGER C Shipped on
5/19/2009 $5.95 5 $29.75
SUM-640025 ALUMINIZED PIPE 2.50 X 4 FEET B Shipped on
5/19/2009 $13.95 4 $55.80
SUM-G4625 MUFFLER CLAMP-2 1/2IN HVY DUTY E Shipped on
5/28/2009 $2.88 5 $14.40
HED-21123 (CA) BALL/SOCKET REDUCER A Shipped on
9/1/2009 $21.95 1 $21.95
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DanWheeler
Bronco Guru
oh and I used MIG and not even with gas, just flux core. it really is easy. its just a lot of trial fitting and cutting. it's not difficult though.
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DanWheeler
Bronco Guru
I actually had checked on this thread to mention something I had hooked up before last weekend.
I think earlier in the thread I had talked about setting up a pushbutton and toggle switch for the lockup torque converter. I'd been having problems with the torque converter locking up on hills probably because I need to get my Baummanator dialed in a little better but even if it were working prooperly, it's still nice to be able to disable the lock up torque converter.
i got a DPST switch (dual pole, single throw - i think thats right) so I could have on/off/auto mode for my lockup torque converter.
The "on" circuit simply connects the switch output (which goes to the transmission's torque converter) to ground.
in the off position, the circuit is open
in the "auto" position, the switch closes the circuit between the baumannator and the torque converter. The baumannator then controls the torque converter based on speed and TPS.
so now I can lockout the overdrive as well as control the torque converter independently if I want. The 4R70W is an awesome transmission!
I think earlier in the thread I had talked about setting up a pushbutton and toggle switch for the lockup torque converter. I'd been having problems with the torque converter locking up on hills probably because I need to get my Baummanator dialed in a little better but even if it were working prooperly, it's still nice to be able to disable the lock up torque converter.
i got a DPST switch (dual pole, single throw - i think thats right) so I could have on/off/auto mode for my lockup torque converter.
The "on" circuit simply connects the switch output (which goes to the transmission's torque converter) to ground.
in the off position, the circuit is open
in the "auto" position, the switch closes the circuit between the baumannator and the torque converter. The baumannator then controls the torque converter based on speed and TPS.
so now I can lockout the overdrive as well as control the torque converter independently if I want. The 4R70W is an awesome transmission!
Thanks for all the information in this thread; I just got done working on this conversion and it helped a lot.
You can drill the shift lever if you take a torch and get whatever section you want to drill cherry red and let it stay that way for a few minutes. Then, let it cool down really slow (don't submerge it in water to cool it down). But, yes, it is impossible to drill if you take it straight from the tranny onto a press...
With my B&M Sport Shifter, I ended up using a 2.10" arm length from center to center on the pivot points. I also found that the shifter is easiest to set up in reverse and not park (reverse should be perfectly perpendicular to the shift cable. This makes park and neutral about 15 degress past perpendicular on either side.
Eric
You can drill the shift lever if you take a torch and get whatever section you want to drill cherry red and let it stay that way for a few minutes. Then, let it cool down really slow (don't submerge it in water to cool it down). But, yes, it is impossible to drill if you take it straight from the tranny onto a press...
With my B&M Sport Shifter, I ended up using a 2.10" arm length from center to center on the pivot points. I also found that the shifter is easiest to set up in reverse and not park (reverse should be perfectly perpendicular to the shift cable. This makes park and neutral about 15 degress past perpendicular on either side.
Eric
SHIFTER PERFECTION ACHIEVED!
I had to make my own shift lever because I wasn't able to drill through the stock lever to lower the attachment point. That lever is made of some kind of Ford super metal.
I'm reasonably sure that 7A256AA is Ford code for "Seriously, don't even try to drill through this lever... this is really hard metal."
and it only took 2 hours to file out that double-D shape by hand!
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