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Dan Wheeler's One-Ton 1.5" Bore Master Cylinder and Hydroboost Thread
- Thread starter DanWheeler
- Start date
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DanWheeler
Bronco Guru
Is there any reason to think the forward and rear ports on the F350 master cylinder are different? I need to decide which ports go to which axle. The 2008 F350 is a disc/disc config.
There's an additional tiny hole below one of the reservoir necks on the master cylinder. From what I've read, this is a fluid return port. The MC is designed for a single reservoir and I've converted it to dual reservoirs. Hopefully this doesn't mean one of my reservoirs is going to get all the return fluid and the other one goes empty?
Worst case, I could find a way to connect the two reservoirs with a hose to equalize them.
Thanks,
Dan
There's an additional tiny hole below one of the reservoir necks on the master cylinder. From what I've read, this is a fluid return port. The MC is designed for a single reservoir and I've converted it to dual reservoirs. Hopefully this doesn't mean one of my reservoirs is going to get all the return fluid and the other one goes empty?
Worst case, I could find a way to connect the two reservoirs with a hose to equalize them.
Thanks,
Dan
I wouldn't think it would but you'll know soon enough. I'm very interested to the results of this and what you think, this is high on my list of mods next year.
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DanWheeler
Bronco Guru
sloooow going on all new brake lines down the panhard mixing hard and soft. Long ways to go to tidy everything up, protect and secure the lines but making progress.
Looking good Dan. You'll like not having anything "dangling" out in space.. 
Just a thought- all my brake and ARB lines are always mounted on the back side of the panhard bar or on the backside of brackets... thick ice just rips everything off or smashes it.
Just a thought- all my brake and ARB lines are always mounted on the back side of the panhard bar or on the backside of brackets... thick ice just rips everything off or smashes it.
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DanWheeler
Bronco Guru
Looking good Dan. You'll like not having anything "dangling" out in space..
Just a thought- all my brake and ARB lines are always mounted on the back side of the panhard bar or on the backside of brackets... thick ice just rips everything off or smashes it.
Thx Brian, yeah I himd and hawd about putting that stuff on the back side of the panhard but there were some clearance issues towards the top of the panhard at full stuff drivers side but I’ll take another look. Otherwise I usually use a few layers of split rubber tubing around the hard and soft lines and a ton of zip ties to secure things.
The real time and challenge is always the details. Looking nice
For sure Dan... I use fuel line as a protective cover for the braided lines where the ends attach to the pivot pts.
I have so little room... I created a disaster area around the drag link, panhard, oil pan, D60, etc...within 1/4" on all, and 1/8".on others... think I'd chop the body up or run the towers out the hood before doing it this way again!
Your layout looks really sanitary.
I have so little room
... I created a disaster area around the drag link, panhard, oil pan, D60, etc...within 1/4" on all, and 1/8".on others... think I'd chop the body up or run the towers out the hood before doing it this way again!Your layout looks really sanitary.
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DanWheeler
Bronco Guru
Got the hard line across the front axle done tonight. Took several hours and a lot of small bends but it's perfect.
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DanWheeler
Bronco Guru
All wrapped up with the mechanical work and a little bit of back and forth in the garage, just need to get it out for a test drive.
Pedal feel is good and I'm able to lock the rears up on the slick garage floor in 4-low which I had trouble doing before.
All the front lines are redone running down the panhard. It came out pretty well. I had a leak on one of the hard lines I made that I think is fixed but keeping an eye on it.
The diff cover is off because since I was pulling the ARB blue line I thought it would be a good time to replace the little rubber compression o-ring where it transitions from copper tube into the brass fitting but I was wrong. The copper tube slipped down inside the diff and that was that %)
Pedal feel is good and I'm able to lock the rears up on the slick garage floor in 4-low which I had trouble doing before.
All the front lines are redone running down the panhard. It came out pretty well. I had a leak on one of the hard lines I made that I think is fixed but keeping an eye on it.
The diff cover is off because since I was pulling the ARB blue line I thought it would be a good time to replace the little rubber compression o-ring where it transitions from copper tube into the brass fitting but I was wrong. The copper tube slipped down inside the diff and that was that %)
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DanWheeler
Bronco Guru
Got it out for a short test drive today. Pedal feel is great, firm but not touchy or too stiff. Just right. Rears lock up easy but that was never an issue. Couldn’t get the fronts to lock up but didn’t have time to keep adjusting down the rear bias until they did. I need to find somewhere I can really hit them hard and watch the fronts.
I’m still dealing with quite a bit of rear lift/jacking from the rear 4-link on hard braking so that can be kind of sketchy and not fun for testing.
Pedal might be a little bit high... probably should have just used the push rod as-is and not worried about trying to match the pedal bottoming to the end of the MC stroke. Not sure what is best for safety or if it matters.
I’m still dealing with quite a bit of rear lift/jacking from the rear 4-link on hard braking so that can be kind of sketchy and not fun for testing.
Pedal might be a little bit high... probably should have just used the push rod as-is and not worried about trying to match the pedal bottoming to the end of the MC stroke. Not sure what is best for safety or if it matters.
Good to hear it's working great Dan!
My only potential negative to going with such a large mc piston isn't when driving along...but what happens if your engine dies and you have used your " one good pump" and now you don't have any HB to assist moving the 1 1/2" bore mc? Guess if OE uses it we're good... never had my SEFI engine die ...
Could you give us some feedback on stopping ability w/o the engine running too?
My only potential negative to going with such a large mc piston isn't when driving along...but what happens if your engine dies and you have used your " one good pump" and now you don't have any HB to assist moving the 1 1/2" bore mc? Guess if OE uses it we're good... never had my SEFI engine die ...
Could you give us some feedback on stopping ability w/o the engine running too?
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DanWheeler
Bronco Guru
so you want me to point it down a big hill, kill the engine, use up what could potentially be my last pump on the h-boost, regain momentum then see what happens?
BanditBronco
Sr. Member
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2008
- Messages
- 690
I would be more interested in dropping your nose down a ledge with the engine off to see if you could hold it back, say your engine dies mid way down a waterfall.
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DanWheeler
Bronco Guru
Ooops... )
Exactly, but let me get that signature on the life insurance faxed over here first!!! lol
I keep forgetting you don't have wide open roads over there anymore!!
hahahaha, I'll send it over right away.
Yeah, it's really hard to find places around here to test drive. I'm surrounded by cops and a-holes in expensive cars. Those tires are super loud too when they bark, it draws a lot of attention.
I'm just kidding though, Brian, I do want to do that test. Just need to find a safe spot.
Dan
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DanWheeler
Bronco Guru
Got more of a test drive in tonight. I still can't lock up the fronts. The rears lock no problem and I have the prop valve turned completely down for the rears.
I did some engine kill tests at about 35MPH. The hard part is that you lose all your speed on the first pump draining the hydroboost but I think I was going 30ish and was able to lock the rear. The pedal is really stiff with the engine off. I never did this test with the 1.25" bore Astro MC so I'm not sure how it compares.
I'd like to test it more at slow speed but steeper hill.
I'm still battling some major rear-end lift on braking. I don't know if it's rear lift or front dive but it seems like rear lift. Need to get a friend to video it. I re-adjusted my front 3-link for 102% antisquat (aka anti-dive in the front) and it didn't make any difference on the brake dive.
My brake pedal is too high - I almost hit someone (they slammed on their brakes in the middle of an intersection) because my foot got stuck under the brake pedal trying to transition from gas to brake. Not sure what's more dangerous, having a pedal that's too high or one that hits the floor before it can use the entire stroke of the MC?
Anyway - fun experiment. Not sure it was worth it.
I did some engine kill tests at about 35MPH. The hard part is that you lose all your speed on the first pump draining the hydroboost but I think I was going 30ish and was able to lock the rear. The pedal is really stiff with the engine off. I never did this test with the 1.25" bore Astro MC so I'm not sure how it compares.
I'd like to test it more at slow speed but steeper hill.
I'm still battling some major rear-end lift on braking. I don't know if it's rear lift or front dive but it seems like rear lift. Need to get a friend to video it. I re-adjusted my front 3-link for 102% antisquat (aka anti-dive in the front) and it didn't make any difference on the brake dive.
My brake pedal is too high - I almost hit someone (they slammed on their brakes in the middle of an intersection) because my foot got stuck under the brake pedal trying to transition from gas to brake. Not sure what's more dangerous, having a pedal that's too high or one that hits the floor before it can use the entire stroke of the MC?
Anyway - fun experiment. Not sure it was worth it.
Do you think it's a volume issue with your explorer pump that's causing the issue with the front not locking? It sounds like everything else you have is 1-ton and should be well matched so I'm curious.
Link Suspensions typically do dive quite a bit on braking. It's usually a compromised balance between spring rate and geometry and can take a lot of trial and error to get right (and it's almost never perfect). It helps if you have a good shock guy that can help dial things in.
Link Suspensions typically do dive quite a bit on braking. It's usually a compromised balance between spring rate and geometry and can take a lot of trial and error to get right (and it's almost never perfect). It helps if you have a good shock guy that can help dial things in.
