Dan Wheeler's Remote Mount TFI Thread

[DanWheeler]

I've been having some intermittent engine failure and no-start situations that I think I have narrowed down to TFI overheating. I am in the process of relocating the TFI off the distributor. Haven't picked a location yet.

I've finished the heat sink and separating out the TFI wires from the harness. I still need to figure out how I'm going to shield the 3 cables going from the distributor to the TFI from electrical interference.

You might be asking yourself, who would MAKE their own heat sink from scrap aluminum and the answer is a very foolish person with too much spare time.

 

[Viperwolf1]

I still need to figure out how I'm going to shield the 3 cables going from the distributor to the TFI from electrical interference.

Wrap them with a bare wire and ground it at one end. Then wrap the bundle with some lightweight foil.

 

[u10072]

When I did what you are doing I got a 95 mustang distributor, TFI, connector and base. Way cleaner of an install and much less likely to have issues than the crimp connectors. That's just me though.

 

[DanWheeler]

When I did what you are doing I got a 95 mustang distributor, TFI, connector and base. Way cleaner of an install and much less likely to have issues than the crimp connectors. That's just me though.

I wanted to do that but I did some reading and I thought some people were saying the distributor gear would be the wrong material. (cast vs steel... Or something like that.) so I decided to just work with what I have.

But maybe I should do a little more research. I'd rather do something that uses off-the-shelf parts if possible.

 

[DanWheeler]

Wrap them with a bare wire and ground it at one end. Then wrap the bundle with some lightweight foil.

Thanks VW! Can I use any bare wire? Some 14ga stripped of its plastic sheath?

Can I use kitchen aluminum foil?

Thanks
Dan

 

[Nobody]

I'd recommend using the harness, dist, and module from a remote tfi vehicle. My 92 tbird 5.0 has a remote tfi.

 

[dclack]

I wanted to do that but I did some reading and I thought some people were saying the distributor gear would be the wrong material. (cast vs steel... Or something like that.) so I decided to just work with what I have.

I thought that the cast vs machined distributor gear issue was only between the 302 and 351.

 

[asinor]

Be sure you Do one of the following with your Homemade HS and Fins.

Best to least best and hardest to easiest.
1. Tig weld the fins to the base.
2. Solder the fins to the base.
3. Use a good Heatsink compound between the fins and the base.

I would lap the mating surface of the HS to get it as flat as possible, then use a good ceramic based HS compound as well.

 

[DirtDonk]

I thought that the cast vs machined distributor gear issue was only between the 302 and 351.

Nope. But there are differences between those two as well of course. Shaft diameter for starters.

But the main discussion of different gear materials is determined by what type of camshaft the engine is sporting.
A standard old-school flat-tappet cam would use a distributor with a cast gear.
An engine equipped with a roller-cam though, machined from a different material, would need the other type of gear. There are machined steel gears, bronze gears specifically for roller cams, and I think even one or two other materials in use today.

Bottom line is that using the wrong one can trash the gear in pretty short order. Anywhere from a few minutes to a few thousand miles.

Paul

 

[Viperwolf1]

Thanks VW! Can I use any bare wire? Some 14ga stripped of its plastic sheath?

Can I use kitchen aluminum foil?

Thanks
Dan

14g is fine. Even 20g is ok. Noise is very small current.

Kitchen foil is ok if it isn't real heavy. Keep it in 1 piece. Maybe cut a 1" strip and wrap it over the wires like you would with tape. Then tape the whole enchilada.

 

[Bronco_69]

i did this a while back on my bronco. i used a distributor from a lightning since i had a 351w.

 

[u10072]

Good lord guys-- Dan per your signature you have a 5.0 out of an explorer-- this means you have a roller cam which is the same as a 95 mustang -- the TFI bases are the same off a ton of stuff. If you need a parts source let me know.

 

[Bronco_69]

Good lord guys-- Dan per your signature you have a 5.0 out of an explorer-- this means you have a roller cam which is the same as a 95 mustang -- the TFI bases are the same off a ton of stuff. If you need a parts source let me know.

and here is the wiring info
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,593.0.html

 

[DanWheeler]

OK, now I'm getting confused. I'm looking at the 95 Mustang distributors and TFI modules on NAPAOnline.com.

The 95 Mustang remote mount TFI modules have the same 6 wire connector that I have now but doesn't have 3 connections on the top for ground, CMP power and PIP in. Where are they?

I'm kinda torn on which direction I want to go now. The direction I was headed is simple and easily reversible if it doesn't work.

Going with the remote mount TFI distributor requires me to buy a new dist and TFI and seems like I would need to make some wiring changes and maybe splice some things in my harness.

?:?

 

[dclack]

There's a 90 somthing T-Bird in the junkyard in town with the '94/95 intakes and remote mount TFI. I could go pull the dist, TFI, and some wiring for you.

 

[dclack]

Actually, since your not positive this is your problem, you should just finish what you started. If it works, then go find the right distributor. (At least that's how I would do it.)

 

[Bronco_69]

on my set up i used the stock remote mount stuff. I did have to solder a few wires in but it was easy. google remote TFI swap on corral.net.


go from this

to this

be sure to use the gray tfi diagrams

http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9838

 

[DanWheeler]

oh wow, thats looking like a lot of re-wiring and I'd have to find a 6-pin round connector.

I think I may just stay on track here with my existing equipment. I'll be well over $150 for a new distributor and remote TFI module. I'm really torn, I would like to do it right but I also want it done before this weekend.


on a related note - just for fun I popped open a junkyard TFI I had laying around that was blowing one of the RJM fuses every time I turned on the ignition. It's not what I expected. There's a 1/4" thick layer of clear goo covering a bunch of electronics inside there:

BTW - does anyone know of a wiring diagram that shows the RJM fuses/relays and what they do? I've looked all over and can't find anything.

thanks,
Dan

 

[Viperwolf1]

The diagram is on this page: http://www.oldfuelinjection.com/?p=6

 

[dclack]

I think I may just stay on track here with my existing equipment. I'll be well over $150 for a new distributor and remote TFI module. I'm really torn, I would like to do it right but I also want it done before this weekend.

Just finish what you're working on and if it solves the problem, I'll go grab that T-Bird dizzy. Then you can come over next weekend and help me install my EFI and grab your parts! ;D