EFI & Explorer Serp Swap – (First Start - RUNS!)

[xcntrk]

I’m wrapping up a long winter project to convert my flat-tappet 302 over to Mustang EFI with Explorer serpentine front-dress. I was pretty deep in this project trying to do too many things at once and it feels good to finally be close to finished. The project included; EFI swap with Explore upper/lower intake, Painless EFI harness, braided fuel lines, 23Gal tank w/internal pump, Explorer front-dress with 4G, Saginaw steering pump, high-flow water-pump, new timing chain/gears, aluminum radiator, electric fan with controller, and I rewired all my accessory switches and installed a compact sub-woofer.

Anyway, I’m at the point of the first startup and not quite sure what I should be taking into consideration. A few random questions I have:

1. I manually set the timing at 10 degrees BTDC. At some point I’ll need to run through the SPOUT procedure to set correctly. Does this need to happen immediately on first start?
2. Same deal with the TPS setup. I know I need to run thorough the procedure to set TPS minimum voltage, does this need to happen immediately?
3. I changed my PS pump and added a larger cooler. I did fill the cooler when installing, but I need to somehow prime the PS pump and bleed the air out. Will this happen naturally or do I need to cycle the steering somehow?
4. What should I expect from the pressurized fuel system? Will it constantly cycle fuel with the key on before I start the motor? I would like to charge the fuel system up and let it run before first-start to check for leaks, etc.
5. How do I bleed trapped air out of the coolant system? I installed a new radiator and had the block stripped down. Lost a lot of coolant and refilled best I could but I know there’s going to be air trapped inside the block. Will this naturally vacate?
6. When I run through the KOEO, what codes should I anticipate? I’m not running an EGR but I do have an “eliminator” plugged into the EGR pigtail.

That’s about it. Fortunately this 302 was fully operational prior to the conversion, so at least I know the motor is good and functional.

 

[chuzie]

1 and 2 are self critiquing especially if it won't start or run well. I recommend setting tps before first start and timing after.

Jack front end off ground and SLOWLY rotate lock to lock 10 times to bleed.

Fuel primes for about 2 seconds after key is on. You can force a manual prime by grounding the fuel pump test circuit on the self test connector (tan/lt green). Alternatively, you can pull EEC relay temporarily to get extended prime.

Air in cooling sys should naturally vacate but i like to expedite the process. I drill an 1/8" hole in top of stat flange. Also check coolant level after first stat opening.

You should expect
Koeo
81
82
85
84

Cm
33

Koer
94
44
33

 

[toddz69]

I can't add much to what Chuzie told you, but I just wanted to compliment you on the beautiful installation - your build quality is always top notch. Is the shield for the air filter something you hand made?

Todd Z.

 

[airbur]

I can't add much to what Chuzie told you, but I just wanted to compliment you on the beautiful installation - your build quality is always top notch. Is the shield for the air filter something you hand made?

Todd Z.

x2....that shield is perfect and I want one. Is it a purchased item?

 

[Viperwolf1]

When you prime the fuel system prior to starting check every connection for leaks. You don't want leaks with the engine running. The fuel pressure gauge will help.

Also check codes prior to startup. It's easy to leave something unplugged. If you don't know how this is the time to learn.

 

[mattt]

Anyway, I’m at the point of the first startup and not quite sure what I should be taking into consideration. A few random questions I have:

1. I manually set the timing at 10 degrees BTDC. At some point I’ll need to run through the SPOUT procedure to set correctly. Does this need to happen immediately on first start?
2. Same deal with the TPS setup. I know I need to run thorough the procedure to set TPS minimum voltage, does this need to happen immediately?
   
   On the TPS voltage & timing, no, neither need to be immediate but if they are way off it may struggle to run. Don't be surprised when the TPS voltage is already correct if you are using used parts and didn't remove the TPS from the upper manifold. I've seen a few good to go without messing with them.
   
3. I changed my PS pump and added a larger cooler. I did fill the cooler when installing, but I need to somehow prime the PS pump and bleed the air out. Will this happen naturally or do I need to cycle the steering somehow?
   
   A lot of people have a hard time bleeding the Explorer pump. I pre-bled mine with an 18v drill/small impact driver and an allen socket. The center bolt of the pump pulley has a hex drive, find the allen socket that fits and spin away, while keeping an eye on the fluid level. Mine didn't prime instantly, but there was one huge burp after about 30-60 seconds of spinning the pump with the 18v driver. After that, it did continue to purge air and whatnot once I started the engine. I don't know if I got lucky, but I thought it was easy to prime, but I did it different than most by not priming it with the engine running and cycling the steering back and forth. FWIW....
   
4. What should I expect from the pressurized fuel system? Will it constantly cycle fuel with the key on before I start the motor? I would like to charge the fuel system up and let it run before first-start to check for leaks, etc.
   
   Key on will give you a ~2 second fuel pump prime. If you'd like to constant run the fuel pump for a while to check for leaks, etc, follow the procedure here in post 2, basically grounding a wire in the self test pump if I remember correctly.... http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,588.0.html
   
5. How do I bleed trapped air out of the coolant system? I installed a new radiator and had the block stripped down. Lost a lot of coolant and refilled best I could but I know there’s going to be air trapped inside the block. Will this naturally vacate?
6. When I run through the KOEO, what codes should I anticipate? I’m not running an EGR but I do have an “eliminator” plugged into the EGR pigtail.

That’s about it. Fortunately this 302 was fully operational prior to the conversion, so at least I know the motor is good and functional.

Looking good man! Looks like prior replies from others got you handled. Turn that key...it's exciting when it does fire over! For me that day was 2011, and it's been permagrin ever since.

 

[xcntrk]

Thanks all!

I made the heat shield and powder coated it.

 

[hucklburry rev2]

Looks awesome.

Best advice I got is: Check the oil level before starting.

 

[xcntrk]

Well that's a huge disappointment.

I filled the radiator prepping for first startup and coolant immediately began leaking out of BOTH sides of the lower intake where it meets the block!?!?! I followed THIS GUYS instructions to the letter but clearly something went wrong. I used felpro gaskets and knew I shouldn't have ditched those L pieces where the intake mates with the block. Following these instructions they say to trash those and use a heavy bead of RTV instead. Clearly that doesn't work :-X

Huge setback. Now I have to tear the whole intake apart to install a new gaskets. Probably contaminated the oil with coolant too... This thing is never going to get running..

 

[airbur]

That sux. But yes...that's most likely exactly your problem. No one should use those end gaskets. I didn't luckily and I have no leaks.

EDIT: Are you saying you didn't use the end gaskets? If you didn't, then that's probably not your issue. Those end gaskets are all crap and do not seal worth a damn.

 

[chuzie]

I just looked at those instructions and the info is all good for the most part.

I didn't see a specific torque sequence and pattern though. If torqued wrong, especially with a layer of wet rtv, it may act as a lubricant and the gaskets can easily deform or move. Did you step the torque 2 or 3 times and then retorque final number till all were tight? Did you use alignment pins?

Ditching the cork L is common. I use them with rtv on top and bottom as it ensures a good seal and requires less rtv.

Are you sure you have correct gaskets?

We've all been there bro. You will get it done.

 

[jbawall]

Hmmm. Interesting, that is exactly what I did on my last manifold install, and I had zero leaks. Except that was for a carb motor. Maybe you didn't get enough RTV in the corners? I would give it another shot, those cork gaskets are a pain in the rear as they slide out alot when you put the intake over it. I know it is frustrating, hang in there, you are almost there!

Well that's a huge disappointment.

I filled the radiator prepping for first startup and coolant immediately began leaking out of BOTH sides of the lower intake where it meets the block!?!?! I followed THIS GUYS instructions to the letter but clearly something went wrong. I used felpro gaskets and knew I shouldn't have ditched those L pieces where the intake mates with the block. Following these instructions they say to trash those and use a heavy bead of RTV instead. Clearly that doesn't work :-X

Huge setback. Now I have to tear the whole intake apart to install a new gaskets. Probably contaminated the oil with coolant too... This thing is never going to get running..

 

[bronconut73]

Sorry to hear of your frustration but "Man" what a beautiful engine bay.
Please re-post when you get it back together.
With the obvious high quality work you have already done I am "certain" you will have that beast purring in no time Bud.

 

[xcntrk]

Yes, I followed the 12 step torque sequence 3 times increasing pressure up to 25ft-lbs on the last go around. Used new intake bolts and even maliciously rtv'd under the washer and bolt heads. I also used alignment bolts which I cut the heads off to set the intake. Something is definitely wrong and I guess I'll find out when I tear back into it again. The water channel in the heads are standard square bore and so were the gaskets. Just to be clear I did not use the block gaskets that came with the felpro kit and instead used the thick RTV bead. But the block gaskets in the kit were nice silicone and not cork, and the Felpro instructions said to use them (without RTV!). But this motor hasn't even started yet and began leaking just by filling the radiator! So something with the water jackets is off or seriously not sealing right. I'm using an explorer lower intake and standard 302 heads (not GT40). They're compatible right?

PS: I did cook the intake as part of the powder coating process. I know there's a potential for aluminum to warp with the heat. But that's got to be a really unlikely given this is a solid piece of aluminum cast and I only cooked it at 400 degrees.

Here's a pic pre-intake install. Anything look off?

 

[Viperwolf1]

Are you sure the coolant wasn't coming from the heater tubes? There are one or two (depends on year) small coolant ports on them for the EGR cooler. The EGR cooler ports don't appear to be connected in your previous pic.

 

[xcntrk]

Are you sure the coolant wasn't coming from the heater tubes? There are one or two (depends on year) small coolant ports on them for the EGR cooler. The EGR cooler ports don't appear to be connected in your previous pic.

Yes, my tubes only have a single port and I ran a dead end hose off it. Would be great if it was something that easy. I don't think the fluid is even getting that high as it's not getting past the intake before leaking.


This is the gasket kit I used:

 

[chuzie]

What number is that kit?

 

[xcntrk]

What number is that kit?

Fel-Pro Intake Manifold Gaskets MS95952. "Includes the upper and lower intake gaskets. 1996-2001 Ford Explorer type vehicles. 1993-95 Cobra, VIN code D." In the reviews are feedback from 302 users installing the GT40 style intake successfully. Are you thinking it's the wrong gaskets?

 

[chuzie]

Those are good gaskets and correct for your application

 

[mattt]

They also work on a 351 with GT40 lower and GT40X heads. Had them in there for years.

Did you also do a small bead of rtv around the 4 water ports at the corners? I was advised to have a small bead outside each water port?