FI 331 stroker experts needed...UPDATE-need more help!

[Broncobowsher]

OK, the carnage. The camera I have is a little old and not the best at up close detail. But I did get into the garage and found the parts.

The distributor gear has a smeared appearance to the driven side of the teeth. Galling.

The cam has a noticable step in it where the cam was wearing into it on the driven side of the teeth. Maybe .010-.020"

This is 2,000 miles with a billit roller distributor gear and the cast Isky roller cam.

 

[rednck21]

i really cant see anything wrong, but i dont know what im looking for. can you see anything in my pics? the dist gear looked shiney where it was contacting the cam gear...

 

[Broncobowsher]

Can't see anything in your pics. The distributor hole is too far away. The one of the distributor itself is too fuzzy where I need to see it. The shiny spots in the picture, if they are smooth metal you should be good. If it is galling, looks like little flakes are stuck to the gear, then bad. I tried to get that to come across in the pics I posted. It is clearer in hand, just hard to get an old camera to take good detailed close up pics.

 

[rednck21]

got back from the dyno a couple hours ago and come to find out the maf wasnt even hooked up%) whoops. anyway, the first pull was 176hp. he burned me a SCT chip and played with the timing and brought it up to 207rwhp. its a completely different rig now...

 

[Broncobowsher]

I need to save this post for those who don't believe they don't need a chip on a built engine and they can get away with just an aftermarket MAF to fix there problems.

That is the difference between running on 7 cylinders and running on 8

 

[rednck21]

yep, thats what the tuner dude was telling me. the parts inside arent stock anymore, so the stock tune wont run everything very well in fact i recomend taking even a stock FI to a good 5.0 tuner. they can usually squeez a few hp out of it and make sure everything is working like it should...

 

[mountainview68]

I need to save this post for those who don't believe they don't need a chip on a built engine and they can get away with just an aftermarket MAF to fix there problems.

That is the difference between running on 7 cylinders and running on 8

I picked up something like 50 hp and 75 lbft of torque to the wheels on the 427 after having a SCT ship tuned on the dyno.

 

[rednck21]

hopefully this is big enough to see. red is before and blue is after. see how much smoother the blue line is

 

[rednck21]

update... this thing has been at a friends shop since september. it sounds like its running on 6 cylinders. come to find out, the high pressure fuel pump isnt working like it should. hes had to manually rule all the possibilites out and its taking him some time. he says hes getting several codes and needs to know what year the computer is.?:? my question is...how do i tell what year it is? all i know is its an A9L and he says theres no year code on it...

 

[bronko69er]

My A9L came from an 89 but I think they went through 92?

 

[rednck21]

yeah, 86-92 i think. he says he needs to know what year it is....i dont know, im just the middle man;D

 

[mr.n]

Ford 331 Stoker built by Keith Craft Racing

Did a quick read, did you call Keith Craft Racing?

They build very nice engines, an are a quality shop.
I know that moving the fuel pressure leaner really helps their 347s

 

[rednck21]

upon further investigation...the high pressure pump thats on there is a mallory and it still works, but just barely%) so....i made a phone call to BC broncos today and talked fuel systems with jason. ive got an accumulator on the way.;D there wasnt one on the truck, so im thinking that might be a small part of the fuel problem. he also recommended and pump from an old F-250. ive basically got to re plumb the whole fuel system...


theres mostly braided fuel lines and AN fittings on there now, so ive got to decide to keep them or convert everything to 3/8 high pressure line. the AN stuff just looks like a PITA. what do ya'll think??

 

[DirtDonk]

Just seeing this for the first time rednck and have a couple of questions for you. In regards to that pic in post #7.
It's hard to tell with the hose in the way, but is that an open grommet on the driver's side (older style?) valve cover? Or is that just a cover of some kind?
I'm assuming that between you and the dyno guy you've been scrutinizing just about every aspect of the engine, but I just wanted to ask and point that out if it was.

Also, have you verified that the cam position timing is correct? If the cam was retarded substantially, your torque range would be raised in the rpm band enough to loose some low-end response. It looks like it's waking up much more now just due to the tuning. Did you get a torque readout to compare to as well? Just curious what that was.
Did the engine builder degree the cam? And if so, do they still have that information for your engine specifically?

Paul

 

[horseman]

Your braided lines are more than adequate. Your only at 45 psi and most braided lines are good to 250 psi . Its more expensive but you said that you already have them. You will need to buy a couple more fittings for your accumulator. If you decide to switch let me know I might buy your lines and fittings.

 

[rednck21]

Just seeing this for the first time rednck and have a couple of questions for you. In regards to that pic in post #7.
It's hard to tell with the hose in the way, but is that an open grommet on the driver's side (older style?) valve cover? Or is that just a cover of some kind?
I'm assuming that between you and the dyno guy you've been scrutinizing just about every aspect of the engine, but I just wanted to ask and point that out if it was.

Also, have you verified that the cam position timing is correct? If the cam was retarded substantially, your torque range would be raised in the rpm band enough to loose some low-end response. It looks like it's waking up much more now just due to the tuning. Did you get a torque readout to compare to as well? Just curious what that was.
Did the engine builder degree the cam? And if so, do they still have that information for your engine specifically?

Paul

i cant remember about the grommet....surely theres something in it, but i will double check next time im at the shop. no tq readout, but it would be good to know.

he has double checked everything and the timing is correct.

 

[rednck21]

Your braided lines are more than adequate. Your only at 45 psi and most braided lines are good to 250 psi . Its more expensive but you said that you already have them. You will need to buy a couple more fittings for your accumulator. If you decide to switch let me know I might buy your lines and fittings.

its actually only braided from the hp pump to the fuel rails. the lp side is just rubber hose with a braided sleeve%) im going to try to reuse the braided stuff on the hp side if i can find the right adapter for the F250 pump. summit didnt have the right adapter today....

 

[rednck21]

i got everything put back together and still couldnt get any fuel pressure. ?:? i put the lines back EXACTLY like they came off of the BCB 6 way fuel selector. come to find out the fuel lines for the tanks were crossed....when the LP pump for the main tank was pumping, the pathway of fuel was open for the aux tank. only a little fuel was getting by the valve........which leads me to believe it was the reason for low fuel pressure and the reason the HP pump crapped out%) i swapped the fuel lines and and get 40psi instantly now good times.

 

[bronko69er]

Good to hear!