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Front End Alignment

DirtDonk

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Nov 3, 2003
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All types of rod ends need their adjustment threads locked in during normal use.
The spherical rod end style that you have has the needed rotational play built into it.

The adjustment threads are not normally supposed to move during use or they will wear out prematurely.
 

CopperBronco

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Aug 13, 2021
Messages
379
All types of rod ends need their adjustment threads locked in during normal use.
The spherical rod end style that you have has the needed rotational play built into it.

The adjustment threads are not normally supposed to move during use or they will wear out prematurely.
That’s what I mean, should Heims rotate freely while driving, meanwhile the lock nuts are stiff. Correct?
 

DirtDonk

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Correct. They have to rotate due to their design. It’s within a limited range of course, but it’s free to rotate within that range.
You will see rocking back-and-forth during use because of that. That’s also why some of the previous mentions of clocking them different to reduce the amount of rotation.
But only when the right conditions are met.
 

lars

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Correct. They have to rotate due to their design. It’s within a limited range of course, but it’s free to rotate within that range.
You will see rocking back-and-forth during use because of that. That’s also why some of the previous mentions of clocking them different to reduce the amount of rotation.
But only when the right conditions are met.
And adding to that, it's one of those things that would take 5-10 seconds to explain if you were sitting in front of the suspension links and able to put your hands on them. But not so easy to explain in words. Bottom line, lock nuts are called that for a reason. Make them tight. Align the rod ends such that with the locknuts tight, the link (be it drag link, track bar, tie rod) can still rotate a bit. Otherwise, even with the lock nuts tight, there is a possibility that suspension motion can loosen them, and then the threads on the rod ends can wear out. A bad thing, as pointed out above.
 

DirtDonk

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Thanks! Rear pinion was worse, and had drive line vibration at 40mph, put in 6 degree leafspring shims and it went away entirely… the 50+mph vibration is much more subtle
Still might be a rear driveshaft vibration. There is only one sweet spot (range) and either too low or too high will give you a vibration. Too high is still too high, so if that camera angle is showing correct on our screens, you need to go back down slightly.
Can you take another shot just for comparison? Maybe as straight on from the side as possible, with or without the tire?
Thanks
...and investigating today if it’s my Heim steer install, or the drive shaft as I’ve ruled out a bunch of other stuff now.
Well we know for sure it's not your front shaft. Assuming you did the spin-test to make sure you could spin it by hand that is?
 

DirtDonk

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Looking at the other pics of your front end (in a PM earlier) I'd say that your front u-joint can't handle much more, if any caster improvement. You said it spins easily by hand even at full extension, which is great. But based on that pic it does appear to be in the "zone of no further improvement allowed" so radius arm drops are not likely a good solution for you.

Paul
 

CopperBronco

Jr. Member
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Aug 13, 2021
Messages
379
Looking at the other pics of your front end (in a PM earlier) I'd say that your front u-joint can't handle much more, if any caster improvement. You said it spins easily by hand even at full extension, which is great. But based on that pic it does appear to be in the "zone of no further improvement allowed" so radius arm drops are not likely a good solution for you.

Paul
Thanks all, adjusted my Heims / lock nuts per your advice and seems much smoother! I also spoke to sales folks for my parts and they sent upgraded instructions as they’ve had some other customers with same problem, made those tweaks and also much better.
 

DirtDonk

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Good to hear!
Now also don’t forget to play with your toe-in to see if there’s a sweet spot you haven’t arrived at yet.
As I always say, changing toe-in is like changing tire pressure. It’s easy, cheap, repeatable, and easy to put back where it was if you don’t find that you can make it better.
 
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