Diary Part 1
This is a 2 part post -- the forum has limits on character count, so I split it into 2 posts.
This is long, but it's a day-to-day diary of sorts that I kept along the journey. This was a dream trip for me, and I was able to do it not only with my wife (and best friend), but with people that were absolutely terrific. Each person and Bronco were different, each had their own idea of what the trip would be, each had good days and bad days -- but in the end, it was a group that was one-for-all and all-for-one to their core. They are all Bronco lovers, but much more than that. They are friends, and I care deeply for each of them. It wasn't always easy being "that guy" -- the guy who had to make a tough decision to put a Bronco on a trailer, or bypass a planned section because we were just moving too slow, or tell people who were tired that it was time to load up and get going. But this group allowed me to be "that guy" without "too much"
animosity!
Baja Bronco Diaries
Day 1 – Saturday, May 5th
We started out the day with a meeting at our parking host in Yuma. We were scheduled to depart at 08:30, but Drew needed to pick up a master cylinder for the Balloon chaser so we didn’t get away until about 9:15. Better in Yuma than in Baja. As soon as we started getting close to the San Luis border crossing, I realized I had significantly underestimated the traffic that would be headed South. We ended up sitting in heavy traffic for about 45 minutes, waiting to clear the Border. In the meantime, the Yuma desert temp was rising and was quickly closing in on 3-digit temps. Several Broncos were starting to see their temps rise, and I opened my heater valve to help with ours. Prior to departing, I had told everyone that we would turn right just past the crossing. However, my GPS had “flipped” it’s direction screen and I just followed the line – which sent me left instead of right. I knew better, but I still followed that stupid line. Of course, several others followed which put us headed in the wrong direction is some extremely crowed and congested streets. I looked for a place to turn around, and one of our Herd made a U turn in the middle of the busy street. That caught the eye of a local cop just looking for US citizens, and it cost him $100 cash right then and there. The rest of us had formed up on a side street only to learn that one of the CO vehicles had vapor locked right at the border crossing and they were loading it on the chase trailer. We finally got everyone on the S. side of the border, headed in the right direction and we took off for La Rumorosa with one of the herd on the trailer. About 20 miles out of San Luis, I missed a turn, so we ended up making a U turn. During that U Turn, the MN Bronco died. The initial troubleshooting looked like a fuel pump. The CO Bronco healed itself on the trailer, and swapped places with the MN Bronco. We made it to La Rumorosa, but were running a couple hours behind. While fueling at the Pemex, the MN apparently healed itself on the trailer also, and we unloaded it so they could hit the 75 miles of dirt with us. We stopped several times along the way because one Bronco or another had some issue, but we would always end up just moving on. We then got the call on the CB that the Greenwood Bronco out of CO was down. Looked like a clutch slave cylinder, so that got it a trip on the trailer. We kept pressing on toward Ojos Negros on a typical Baja washboard, dusty road. The terrain began to change, and we ended up in Piney woods. At some point, we got separated from our chase team and the Greenwood trailer. I decided to keep the herd moving, knowing that the chase guys could find their way to Horsepower Ranch. It was pretty slow going on that 75 miles of dirt, with continuous stops for one reason or another. But we finally rolled into Horsepower Ranch close to 8:00 pm – about 4 hours past our planned arrival. Fortunately, the folks at HP ranch had food waiting, and we enjoyed salad, beef brisket, mashed potatoes, tortillas and chips w/salsa. And the beer was cold. The Chase team pulled in about an hour after us. Everyone spent a little time inspecting and, in some cases, repairing some items on their Bronco. It was a fairly chaotic first day in Baja for the herd, and things didn’t go as smoothly as planned – but it’s Baja. That’s what it does.
Day 2 – Horsepower Ranch to Punta San Carlos (Solo Sports)
We started the day with a nice breakfast at HP Ranch, followed by a tour of their facility where they are rebuilding several early Broncos. Pretty cool stuff. We then hit the road, heading South. We left the Greenwoods and their Bronco with our chase team, in hopes of getting a new slave cylinder in Ensenada. If they found one, the could install it and catch up with us later down the road. As we headed South, the Forrest Bronco blew up their driveshaft. My spare was in the chase truck with the Greenwoods, but fortunately the Loewens had a spare so the swap was made. Not too far down the road, the Forrest Bronco shredded a tire and the spare was mounted. Because of the slow pace, I made a command decision to cut out some of the dirt we had planned for the day. My #1 goal was to keep us off the roads at dark and make each destination together. We made it to Camulu for lunch, and our chase truck driver and the Greenwood Bronco caught up with us, after being repaired and was running great. We told them to grab some lunch and they could catch up with us at La Lobera (the Seal Hole). We made our way to the seal hole, grabbed some photos and just as we were leaving the Greenwoods drove up in their now running Bronco. We were all together again, and headed South. Not to long after our cutoff for SOLO sports, my Bronco just died. I was pretty confident it wasn’t anything big, so we sent most of the team on to SOLO while a few of us stayed back to repair my Bronco. It turned out it was a bad Mega Fuse holder for the EFI system. Phil bypassed the fuse and we were off and running. It was a VERY long dirt stretch to SOLO, taking nearly 2.5 hrs. We made it just before the sun went down. We had some cold drinks, nice tamale dinner and settled in for a night of glamping on the edges of the Pacific Ocean. It was pretty cold, but Joan and I got lucky and found a tent inside of a wooden building which blocked most of the wind. I don’t think the tents were a big hit, but it’s and adventure. Another adventurous day in Baja!!
Day 3 – SOLO Sports to Bahia de Los Angeles
It was a rough night sleep for most. In tents, on the ground, no shower, with the wind howling made for a tough night. However, waking up to the view of the Pacific almost made it worth it. Fresh coffee, pancakes and sausage for breakfast and we were off. We staggered the start back to hwy 1, and told people to go at whatever pace suited them. This worked out great because the route that took 2.5 hrs the day before, was just 1.5 hrs today! The only Bronco incident was with Bill Drew’s hood pins. They both broke loose, so he ended up ratchet strapping and zip tying his hood down. So Baja. So Baja. Knowing we were entering the most desolate stretch of Baja, we backtracked to El Rosario to top off for fuel, turned around and headed South. SOLO set up a table and let us make some box lunches, so we stopped about 100 miles down the road in Catavina to eat. There is a really nice store there (that and a hotel are the ONLY things there), so we ate our lunches under the shade. Somewhere along the way, the Hallstrom Bronco started acting up again. We ended up trailering it into BOLA with what we think is a problem with his fuel heating up (He’s injected). With roughly 50 miles to go before we hit our destination, I started hearing a whining noise in my Bronco whenever it was under torque. We rolled into BOLA only to find out the gas station didn’t have enough fuel for all of this. That was a big deal, because we needed everyone full in order to make the destination the next day. We ended up trying to fill Broncos with auxiliary cans, but we were still a little short. I decided to alter the route out of BOLA, and head off at the San Borja Mission and we would fill up in Jesus Maria. That route turned out to be a LOT of fun! After dinner, we diagnosed my Bronco as having a bad rear ring and pinion. We put it back together, filled it with fluid and decided to push to La Paz where I can probably get a new one. Worst case, it blows and I move ahead in FWD only. When we rolled into Las Vientes hotel, I was VERY pleased with what I saw. This was a terrific location, right on the beach with a huge bar and pool area. The owners (William and Rosy) were terrific and we had a buffet dinner that seemed to please everyone. We also all had our share of adult beverages – some more than others! ;-) Onward tomorrow toward San Ignacio.
Day 4 – Bahia de Los Angeles to San Ignacio
Started the day with a great breakfast at our hotel, overlooking the Sea of Cortez. It was pretty windy, but that’s BOLA. The Hallstrom Bronco was off the trailer and we were going to see if just cooling down helped. I poured 5 gallons of fuel from my can into his truck so he could take off with us. When we were heading out of town, the other Pemex looked like it was open after we were told they would be closed. We drove in, and they were able to fill all the Broncos with fuel. After some internal debate on the route, I decided to stick with the Northern route out of BOLA, with a stop at the San Borja Mission. It was a GREAT route. As we were pulling out of Bola, the Hallstrom Bronco just wasn’t running right so he turned it around to load it up on the trailer. We would meet them at the Pemex in Jesus Maria. The road to the Mission starts about 15 miles out of BOLA and is good section of dirt. Rough in spots, fast in others, it gives a great representation of the NORRA race course. When we arrived at the mission about 20 miles in, we found some folks from Germany who were in an adventure vehicle. Very nice people who were just hanging out. The caretaker (owner) of the mission was there, and he provided our group with a great tour of the place. Built in the early 1700’s, it’s a pretty amazing structure. We decide to take off and eat lunch in Jesus Maria. When we arrived, the Hallstrom Bronco had it’s fuel tank out and they were replacing the fuel pump. There was a taqueria right there and we were told that fresh fish had just arrived, so several in the group had some Baja Fish Tacos. Several of the team helped get the Hallstrom Bronco back together, but that didn’t fix his problem. We took off for San Ignacio, and the Hallstrom Bronco would meet us there on the chase truck’s trailer. About 5 miles outside of San Ignacio, we went thru a military checkpoint. I gave them a few beers and cold water to let our group pass with stopping everyone. Baja. Past the checkpoint, just a few miles, someone shouted on the CB that my Bronco was smoking. I stopped and spotted a leak in a low pressure power steering line. About 10 minutes later, we were rolling. A couple of folks on this trip should be professional pit stop guys. As we drove into San Ignacio, I decided to bypass the hotel and go into the square to see if there were any kids there to hand out coloring books and toys. There were plenty, and we also decided to grab some ice cream. We then headed off to our hotel where people quickly popped their hoods to do some maintenance prior to our departure in the morning. A few guys from the Colorado Classic Bronco club where working on the Hallstrom Bronco when I went to bed. We’ll see how that went in the morning. Overall, A good day in Baja.
Day 6 – San Ignacio to Loreto
We started with a group shot in front of San Ignacio mission, filled up and headed South. Stopped at Mulege to tour their Mission and got a great view of the river from a platform behind the mission. We then proceeded South to Playa Santispac on Constitucion Bay. (1st beach on route). Water was spectacular, and we ended up just sticking around there for several hours. We ate lunch at a little restaurant on the beach, and Chris and Jeff had an old school drag race on the beach. We headed for Loreto at about 3:30 and settled in for an extremely hot ride to our hotel. About 2 hrs later we rolled in, and I was 100% exhausted. The heat and winding roads took their toll on me, but Villa del Palomar was a really nice sight to see. Spectacular location to spend 2 nights of our journey in.
Day 7 – Loreto
Free day today, and people went fishing, stand-up paddle boarding, scuba diving and sight-seeing. We opted to take a shuttle into town and walked around to just relax. Found a great little out-of-the-way spot for a light breakfast, then headed to the mission. Loreto is probably my favorite town in MX. It’s big enough that it has what you need, small enough that it doesn’t have traffic, very clean, right on a beautiful part of the Sea of Cortez, and the people are super friendly. Our chase guys found some local's who came out to work on the Hallstrom's fuel issue. Turns out they had about 4 bad injectors, so they got them all replaced and are running again. Our resort is really nice, but they nickel and dime you to death – and they have some weird obsession to know your room number. Ask a question to the staff, and the first thing out of their mouth is “room number?”…. weird
Day 8 – Loreto to La Paz
We got off to an early start, and headed to the San Javier cut-off just S. of Loreto. Just after filling our tanks in Loreto, my brakes when completely out. A quick look showed that my fluid for the rear had all leaked out of the MC. I’ve got a slow leak at the proportioning valve, so I just filled it up and we took off, making sure to add fluid along the trip. The road is all paved now, up to San Javier. We actually took a heading N. before we got to Javier, and headed to Comondu. (note: gps file was incorrect with turnoff location. It was 1km past the gps marking). The road to Comondu is a super cool dirt trail that takes you through the mountains, and has a little of everything. The big payoff is the view coming into Comondu. The lush green tropical village just seems to pop up out of nowhere! When we got into the village and parked, Eck’s Bronco decided it needed rear U-Joints so he replaced those. He needed a pinion seal also, but that had to wait until La Paz. Everyone just dug out snacks and made that our lunch stop, which was ok by me. The Mission in Comondu was built in the late 1600’s, and still looks awesome! Pretty amazing. As we headed out of town, the Forrest Bronco dropped a driveshaft. This was the loaner they were running with while theirs is being rebuilt in Loreto. Drew and I removed the shaft and put the Bronco in FWD only, which is where he would stay until we hit La Paz and could get my spare driveshaft out of the chase truck. It was a long 3 hour drive to La Paz, but as we were approaching town we saw several Broncos on the side of the hwy. It was the Baja Sur Bronco Club there to meet us and escort us to our hotel. Once we hit the hotel, a few of us worked on our Broncos and then a large group met for a great steak dinner in the hotel. Long day, and I’m beat. But we experienced some really cool things today that will be stories we will remember forever. Baja.