Random Questions, U joints and doors....

[clintonvillian]

1. I had to drop my front driveshaft and noticed the joints are a little dry.

It seems I need 6 1310 spicer joints to do all of them. Should I do the CV joint as well? And is there anything I need to know before I replace it?

2. The next question involves the door striker backup plates. I have one bolt that is stripped and just spins. Both bolts on the opposite striker won't budge and they need adjusted.

Any tips on replacing these without having to do major surgery on the pillars?

I have tried an impact and socket/rachet with screw driver tips and it just snaps the heads of the bits off. Heat has not helped either...

 

[Jdgephar]

Front depends on if its a spicer or borg warner driveshaft. My 68 is a borg warner. I forget what year they switched.

Yes, replace the CV...otherwise you'll be in there again. They are cheap enough.

I assume you mean 6 joints to do the front and back? Rear shaft should all be 1310s. Pay attention to the orientation of the grease zirk when you take them out. Put the new ones in the same way.

Can't help on 2, sorry.

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[clintonvillian]

Front depends on if its a spicer or borg warner driveshaft. My 68 is a borg warner. I forget what year they switched.

Yes, replace the CV...otherwise you'll be in there again. They are cheap enough.

I assume you mean 6 joints to do the front and back? Rear shaft should all be 1310s. Pay attention to the orientation of the grease zirk when you take them out. Put the new ones in the same way.

Can't help on 2, sorry.

Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk

The greasable joints I am seeing have the fitting in the cap. With that being the case orientation would not matter, correct?

 

[hunter1]

1. I had to drop my front driveshaft and noticed the joints are a little dry.

It seems I need 6 1310 spicer joints to do all of them. Should I do the CV joint as well? And is there anything I need to know before I replace it?

2. The next question involves the door striker backup plates. I have one bolt that is stripped and just spins. Both bolts on the opposite striker won't budge and they need adjusted.

Any tips on replacing these without having to do major surgery on the pillars?

I have tried an impact and socket/rachet with screw driver tips and it just snaps the heads of the bits off. Heat has not helped either...

For the striker plates you’ll need to remove this support, cut the striker mount out of its bracket and replace it. Not sure if you can buy the drilled and tapped plate anywhere but should be fairly easy to make.

 

[Jdgephar]

The greasable joints I am seeing have the fitting in the cap. With that being the case orientation would not matter, correct?

Assuming you buy replacements that are in the cap also. Most are in the body of the joint. Spicer parts that I've used are in the body.

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[DirtDonk]

Yes to both.
If the joints are in the cap (stronger) then it does not matter as there is no difference in which part of the yoke the cap with the fitting goes.
Most Spicers have the traditional fitting in the cross. However they do offer some joints with it in the cap. Not sure if yours applies however.

The point of monitoring where it is when it's in the cross, is to be sure to orient the grease fitting (and therefore it's cross-weakening hole) in the compression side of the joint rather than extension.
This means that when the driveshaft is spinning in the normal direction, the Zerk fitting is under compression, or being "pushed" by the drive yoke, against the driven yoke. A squeeze play if you will.
In extension the torque forces are trying to pull the weak spot at the hole and cracks can start there.

The exact same forces apply to the single joints at the differential pinion yokes as well. Always make sure to put the Zerk in the compression side.
Or get joints with them in the cap, or without a grease fitting at all.
I'm a fan of greasing and general maintenance. If you like to do this regularly, or if you make water crossings a part of your Bronco's life, or if your Bronco sits for extended periods and is not a daily driver, where it might be decades before you see 10,000 miles, a greasable u-joint is a lifesaver. If you're not super diligent about it however, daily drive the thing to keep the grease happy, or just figure on changing them out every 50-70k miles anyway, just get the fitting-less u-joints.

Paul