Rebuilt roller has cast cam I’m worried.

[joshua]

I bought a freshly machined engine from a dead guys friend. I know idk how I talk myself into this stuff. But he had receipts.

The deceased man had assembled it not the machine shop. And the gentleman assured me he had put several together. I’m in hurry as summer is basically over in Minnesota and the price was right so it came home with me.

After noticing some questionable decisions on assembly I was fine combining and noticed the cam. It’s was definitely cast. I know roller cams can come from some form of casting process and is then hardened. But I would really like to be sure it is indeed intended for roller lifters.

I tried looking up for a couple of hours if there was a way to know without pulling the cam or using stamps off the front of the cam, as there isn’t any. So I broke down and pulled all the rockers and finally the cam.

I think it says 4062 A or it’s 4068 > Thingie. Also pretty sure there’s a P and a 6 pointed star. If anyone knows lmk, or should I just go the machine shop and have them tell me.

I did search the numbers, but I didn’t find a smoking gun. I would say the lobes look egg shaped tho.

 

[rjrobin2002]

I thought non roller cams have non polished lobes like this?

Never ran one, just what I've observed shopping.

 

[rjrobin2002]

From what I just found on the mustang pages, that 4062A is on many manufacturers cams as they just gring their cam and don't manufactur the blank.

Wierd yours doesn't have some hand engraved numbers.

For $300 you could get a billet roller cam from summit to your door and know the exact specs. Or you could take that cam to a machine shop and have the tell you the lift/duration/lobe seperation and material.

 

[rcmbronc]

They appear to be roller lobes to me. Not all roller cams are billet steel. Some are cast steel like this one. That being said I have no idea what cam it is.

 

[joshua]

They appear to be roller lobes to me. Not all roller cams are billet steel. Some are cast steel like this one. That being said I have no idea what cam it is.

I do realize, but I think the block is an 87. Which was a transitional year for cars and trucks from what I read. I was told it was an engine that was going into a mustang, which I think that mustangs had exclusively gone roller at that point. But the engine may not have been out of a mustang.

Also that doesn’t necessarily mean the correct cam was ordered. I’m going to the machine shop this morning before work, if it’s a roller I’m not going to worry about the specs, I was told it was a stock rebuild.

Valve springs where already ready new on freshly machined head, and I had one of the valve springs off and they look brand new. At least there wasn’t any wear I could find on them or the keeper components.

 

[Torkman66]

What “questionable decisions on assembly”? Only reason I ask is some of what you’ve shared about the motor seems as if was built nice. Most guys that do the heads right, take the time and money to buy new parts and build their own, normally put some degree of thought into the cam. That cam is probably a good cam with stock numbers. I’d bet you’re ok and end up with a good motor. RIP engine builder.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Those look roller came profile to me. The nose of the lobe is more rounded over. The flat tappet is pointier.
As mentioned, there are some roller cams made on cast blanks, they do something special with heat treat or something like that. I got burned 20 years ago with the assumption that all roller cams are on steel blanks and ate a distributor gear for it.

Is it in the receipts what cam it is?

At this point, spend a few bucks and get a cam/lifter/distributor gear that you know will all work together. No dead guy mysteries anymore.

 

[joshua]

Those look roller came profile to me. The nose of the lobe is more rounded over. The flat tappet is pointier.
As mentioned, there are some roller cams made on cast blanks, they do something special with heat treat or something like that. I got burned 20 years ago with the assumption that all roller cams are on steel blanks and ate a distributor gear for it.

Is it in the receipts what cam it is?

At this point, spend a few bucks and get a cam/lifter/distributor gear that you know will all work together. No dead guy mysteries anymore.

I may just do that. I did go to the machine shop with the cam this morning. It was in fact confirmed to be a roller cam, and to use a hardened distributor gear. Nothing was mentioned in the paper work for the cam from the machine shop.

 

[bigmuddy]

I may just do that. I did go to the machine shop with the cam this morning. It was in fact confirmed to be a roller cam, and to use a hardened distributor gear. Nothing was mentioned in the paper work for the cam from the machine shop.

Also, I assume you are putting this in a bronco? Likely not the best cam for a bronco need better torque vs higher RPM.

 

[joshua]

Also, I assume you are putting this in a bronco? Likely not the best cam for a bronco need better torque vs higher RPM.

Isn’t a stock mustang cam pretty tame?

 

[joshua]

What “questionable decisions on assembly”? Only reason I ask is some of what you’ve shared about the motor seems as if was built nice. Most guys that do the heads right, take the time and money to buy new parts and build their own, normally put some degree of thought into the cam. That cam is probably a good cam with stock numbers. I’d bet you’re ok and end up with a good motor. RIP engine builder.

You’re correct, and really it was just paint on the crank and inside the timing cover. And the timing chain. I’m no builder, but I thought that was questionable. So it peaked my interest. Also the timing chain that was on it was hitting the block. So ya I figured maybe he may have made a mistake or 2.

But in no way am I saying I would have done it right or better, that’s why I’m on here lol. I didn’t even want to pull the cam, as I have never taken one out of an American small block. Most of my experience is with cheap old Japanese commuter cars and vw golfs and such.

 

[rjrobin2002]

I have a stock 1996 351w roller cam you can have. I'm 99% sure it's the same cam that's used in the v8 explorers.

 

[Timmy390]

I have a stock 1996 351w roller cam you can have. I'm 99% sure it's the same cam that's used in the v8 explorers.

It is.....

Tim

 

[fordguy]

I would opt for the comp cam 35-308-08 and get a good bump in torque and hp. P heads have to have upgraded springs. I have stock explorer cam because I did not know about the 308 when we built my engine.

 

[joshua]

I would opt for the comp cam 35-308-08 and get a good bump in torque and hp. P heads have to have upgraded springs. I have stock explorer cam because I did not know about the 308 when we built my engine.

I don’t have gt40 heads on my 302 they are stock 87 mustang heads

I have a 351 I’m thinking about building, this is just a stop gap engine. I have a set a of aluminum gt40 heads that I was going to put on this 302, but they likely won’t clear the pistons. But stock is fine for now, It was 1500 bucks, with new cam, rebuilt lower, and a valve job on the heads.

 

[Timmy390]

The stock 87 heads i.e. E7's are good heads. Were used on small blocks through 96. My 96 351w had E7's stock. GT40's are better....GT40P's are even better.

Stay away from Mustang cams or E series. Torque curve is not what the Bronco needs.

Tim

 

[DirtDonk]

Either while it’s out, or after you put it back together, verify the firing order.
Remember cams can be had either way.

And if it’s a car cam, it might not hurt to advance the cam timing a few degrees. Bringing the torque peak down to a slightly lower RPM doesn’t hurt in a bronco.

Presumably roller lifters came with the engine?
What retention type?

 

[joshua]

Roller lifters and stock retainers, dog bones and spider