Replacing ball joints, bearings and seals this weekend. Have any tips for me?

[rbwamsley]

As the title says, I'm replacing the ball joints, bearings, races and seals on my D44 this weekend. Any tips or gotchas to look out for would be appreciated.

I also, want to change out my C-bushings, any advantage to doing this at the same time?

Thanks,
Blake

 

[blubuckaroo]

You'll want to replace the spindle bearings and seals while you're in there.

 

[DanHall]

You'll want to replace the spindle bearings and seals while you're in there.

You will need something to pull those spindle bearings. I have used a HF pilot bearing bearing puller but had to grind the jaws a bit to make it work. Not the best quality tool but not something I use very often either.

 

[blubuckaroo]

I use an old cut off brake spoon and a hammer. The angle of the spoon is perfect and they drive out easily.

 

[70_Steve]

As the title says, I'm replacing the ball joints, bearings, races and seals on my D44 this weekend. Any tips or gotchas to look out for would be appreciated.

I assume you have, or have access to, a press for those ball joints. Pay attention to the alignment of the grease fitting on the upper ball joint, so you can get to it when it's installed.

The front hubs don't need to be packed with grease. Just a light lubrication, and to keep from rusting.

I also, want to change out my C-bushings, any advantage to doing this at the same time?

The only advantage is that you've already got the tires off. But if you're messing with the knuckles out, chances are you've got the jackstands underneath the front axle. To do the c-bushings, you need the jackstands under the frame.

 

[DanHall]

I use an old cut off brake spoon and a hammer. The angle of the spoon is perfect and they drive out easily.

I was going to disk brakes using the outers from a junkyard FSB axle. The bearings required a little persuasion for me.

 

[rbwamsley]

The front hubs don't need to be packed with grease. Just a light lubrication, and to keep from rusting.

Wait, I don't need to pack the bearings with grease? What do you lubricate them with?

 

[rbwamsley]

You will need something to pull those spindle bearings. I have used a HF pilot bearing bearing puller but had to grind the jaws a bit to make it work. Not the best quality tool but not something I use very often either.

I'm lucky, my Dad is a Snap-on Tool dealer. Pretty sure I can find something to get it out.

 

[70_Steve]

The front hubs don't need to be packed with grease. Just a light lubrication, and to keep from rusting.

Wait, I don't need to pack the bearings with grease? What do you lubricate them with?

I said "hubs", not "bearings". Yes, the bearings need to be packed. But the rest of it, from the locking nuts on out, does not.

 

[rbwamsley]

I said "hubs", not "bearings". Yes, the bearings need to be packed. But the rest of it, from the locking nuts on out, does not.

Wow, I misread the hell out of that. Thanks for clarifying.

 

[DJs74]

I said "hubs", not "bearings". Yes, the bearings need to be packed. But the rest of it, from the locking nuts on out, does not.

I use a thin layer of Vaseline or similar on the lockout mechanism splines. Thick grease can cause the hubs to not want to slide and engage very well (especially in the winter).

 

[Jdgephar]

I just did new ball joints on my brother's '94 Bronco last week.

On the early broncos, you need a spanner tool for the bushing on the top ball joint. It's for after you get the castle nut off, there's another screw in bushing.

http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-12204SS-spanner-socket.html

Another tip that helped on the '94 was to use a pickle fork tool on both the upper and lower ball joint at the same time to get the knuckle off the axle. Alternate hitting the top and bottom with the hammer.

Rent the 4x4 ball joint replacement tool from the auto parts store if you don't have one. It works great.

For the races on the hubs, just drive them out with a brass draft and a hammer. Keep the old races and use them to hammer on to drive the new ones in.

Don't forget that you need new hub seals when you replace the inner bearing and race on the hub. Don't forget the seal for the spindle bearing, and might as well replace the slinger and seal on the axle stub...

https://www.wfoconcepts.com/pr/Dana-44-Spindle-Rebuild-Kit/3164/3171/3442

 

[Timmy390]

On the early broncos, you need a spanner tool for the bushing on the top ball joint. It's for after you get the castle nut off, there's another screw in bushing.

Picked mine up at the local NAPA. $9 I think.

Tim

 

[rbwamsley]

I just did new ball joints on my brother's '94 Bronco last week.

On the early broncos, you need a spanner tool for the bushing on the top ball joint. It's for after you get the castle nut off, there's another screw in bushing.

http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-12204SS-spanner-socket.html

Another tip that helped on the '94 was to use a pickle fork tool on both the upper and lower ball joint at the same time to get the knuckle off the axle. Alternate hitting the top and bottom with the hammer.

Rent the 4x4 ball joint replacement tool from the auto parts store if you don't have one. It works great.

For the races on the hubs, just drive them out with a brass draft and a hammer. Keep the old races and use them to hammer on to drive the new ones in.

Don't forget that you need new hub seals when you replace the inner bearing and race on the hub. Don't forget the seal for the spindle bearing, and might as well replace the slinger and seal on the axle stub...

https://www.wfoconcepts.com/pr/Dana-44-Spindle-Rebuild-Kit/3164/3171/3442

Here is what I have. So I'm missing another seal?

 

[Jdgephar]

I would say that you have the bare minimum for replacement parts if you are going into the axle as far as you will be. You will want the spindle replacement kit that comes with the seal that mounts on the axle stub slinger, the spindle bearing and its little seal as well. You could reuse the old ones, but their condition is probably poor unless you know they've been done recently.

 

[Rustytruck]

You have the parts for outside the spindle but none of the parts inside the spindle. The outer stub axle goes inside the spindle it has 2 seals an an inner needle bearing. You need 2 sets of those items for a full rebuild. If your bronco is a swimmer then consider replacing the 2 o-rings 1 for the outer hub body and one for the plastic knob and copper washers under the allenhead bolts for the outer hubs. You need 2 sets of this stuff. Allot of people don't replace this stuff each time.

 

[rbwamsley]

Alright, just picked up two of these.

Anything else I'm missing to do this right?

 

[rbwamsley]

Anybody know where I cant get the torque numbers for all the parts that I will be putting back on?

 

[DirtDonk]

Don't forget, now's the perfect time to spend more money.... Uh, I mean replace the axle shaft u-joints too. ;D

Like the other stuff, unless they've been done recently, no sense in going this far in and not changing them at the same time.

Don't have the torques handy, but will try to find them. Do you know the proper bearing adjustment procedure for this particular 4wd setup? Different than most other types of vehicles, but if you've done it, or a Jeep or similar truck of our vintage, you probably have the procedure down.

Paul

 

[rbwamsley]

Don't forget, now's the perfect time to spend more money.... Uh, I mean replace the axle shaft u-joints too. ;D

Might as well, I like to do things right and once. Do I want greasable or non-greasable? O'Reilly offers both.

Don't have the torques handy, but will try to find them. Do you know the proper bearing adjustment procedure for this particular 4wd setup? Different than most other types of vehicles, but if you've done it, or a Jeep or similar truck of our vintage, you probably have the procedure down.

Paul

What adjustment procedure are you speaking of?