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Roll Cage Options? Lets see some pics

joebeckham08

New Member
Joined
May 13, 2015
Messages
1
MPS Custom Rides in Chico, CA makes some awesome cages for the price. He does kits or fully welded.
 

badmuttstang

redneck grease monkey
Joined
Oct 25, 2009
Messages
2,807
Bronco Bob's for mine as well had him weld and deliver mine with bumpers front and rear think I paid him 40 bucks to deliver.
 
OP
OP
BlueGhost93

BlueGhost93

Jr. Member
Joined
May 20, 2015
Messages
65
Loc.
San Diego
Depending on shipping costs you may want a Roll Cage built locally.

Here is a pretty simple design that is made from 2" DOM tubing and is built by a guy here in Bradenton that builds cages for the NHRA cars. Extremely strong and has the "Triangle" for added strength. The feet on the bottom have matching Plates underneath that sandwich the body and can be tied into the frame as well. This one also ties in with the Windshield to help support with Soft Top. Painted body color.

Build a Roll Cage that is going to actually work if you need it. Don't build a Beauty Bar that might mount your 3-point seat belts and some lights that ends up being a "Mouse Trap" in the end.

That looks like a nice cage! I like that design. And yea no beauty bar here. I feel like ill do a lot more offroad then I think once I get it built the way I want.
And installed
No worries on the upside down pics.lol Cage looks good

Bronco Bob's for mine as well had him weld and deliver mine with bumpers front and rear think I paid him 40 bucks to deliver.

And yea right now im 99% going with bronco bob and he will make me some seat mounts built into the cage at a decent price too! This summer im heading up to sacramento area and want to try and get to wild horses and see their family cage if they have one on display or in a bronco.
 

stlo

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 1, 2011
Messages
1,228
Loc.
tulsa
Get with " Spareparts " on here...great cage and easy to put together
 

mattt

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 23, 2006
Messages
3,810
Thread resurrection, looking for advice and some BTDT guidance. Those of you with thru the dash cages, what did you use to notch the dash where the tubes pass thru? I'm sure there are better ways to cut the dash, and less than better ways to cut the dash. I was hoping to hear what worked particularly well and what didn't work or screwed up the dash pass thru slots. I was considering starting with a hole saw, but I'm just not convinced that is going to work without chowdering up the dash from the angle on the hole saw. My tubes pass thru directly inboard of the outer dash "wings." Thank you in advance for any and all pointers, advice.
 

SC74

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
May 24, 2004
Messages
3,413
I used a hole saw and then used a cut off wheel to make straight cuts to the top of the dash so I could slip it right over the tubing. My dash was out of service at that time so I'm sure I cleaned the edges up well before painting, but the radius of the hole saw makes a clean look. I also swapped the speaker grill and glove box door.
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jmangi62

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 28, 2013
Messages
2,469
Bronco Bob's 8pt. cage,gonna add some gussets and grab handles to help with getting in and out,but I like it.:cool:
 

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Dusty

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 28, 2001
Messages
2,965
matt, hole saw for the initial hole. Then a cut-off wheel for the slots. Another tool I've found that works awesome for fine-tuning the fitment of something like that is a carbide rotary file (also known as a burr bit) in the pneumatic die grinder. It has to be carbide, the regular steel ones will just wear down to smooth. And be careful with them, they can dig in and take too much material. But they're awesome for shaping a hole, especially something with an irregular shape like that.

Here's another tip, and I've done a few cages now with through-the-dash bars like that. If you can, completely disassemble and disconnect the dash so its easy to work with. Then start by taking slightly less material than you think you'll need to, then test-fit, mark where you need to take more, in small increments, and keep test-fitting and trimming in baby steps. The carbide rotary file is great for that.
 

Digger556

Sr. Member
Joined
Aug 8, 2013
Messages
793
I will be getting my 77 bronco soon hopefully but my friends dads 74is almost done and we are looking into cage options. Was hoping those with cages would post pics of their builds so we can see all the options. A cage can make or break the look of the bronco.

Thanks!

I finished this one recently:

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JSmall

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 18, 2004
Messages
3,223
Looks good digger! Do you have a direct side shot of your cage?
 

mattt

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 23, 2006
Messages
3,810
Thanks Dusty and SC74 for the pointers....all great ideas. I have the dash removed from the Bronco so, the plan is to start small and sneak up on how much to trim from the dash for tubing clearance.

How far down the face of the dash did you use the hole saw, since I see no possible way to make a hole saw work coming down from the top? Did the hole saw 'set' the bottom of the slot in the dash for the cage tube or was the hole saw kind of in the middle on the slot where you enlarged the slot for the cage tube both UP and DOWN from the holesaw hole? Hopefully I didn't murder that explanation too bad
 

Dusty

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 28, 2001
Messages
2,965
Thanks Dusty and SC74 for the pointers....all great ideas. I have the dash removed from the Bronco so, the plan is to start small and sneak up on how much to trim from the dash for tubing clearance.

How far down the face of the dash did you use the hole saw, since I see no possible way to make a hole saw work coming down from the top? Did the hole saw 'set' the bottom of the slot in the dash for the cage tube or was the hole saw kind of in the middle on the slot where you enlarged the slot for the cage tube both UP and DOWN from the holesaw hole? Hopefully I didn't murder that explanation too bad

I think I get the gist of what you're asking. Intuitively, it seems like you would want to follow the path of the tube with the hole saw. 1.75" tube, 1.75" hole saw, makes a perfect path for it right? But as I think you already figured out, the hole saw isn't long enough to do that. without the remnant inside it impeding your progress, since the tube is rather parallel to the upper part of the dash above the crease. I would use a couple sizes smaller hole saw (like 1.5" or 1.25") to put the hole near the bottom of where your final cut will be, then use the cut-off wheel and rotary bit to do the measure-mark-trim-repeat process until it fits right. the bottom of the slot will be elongated like an oval anyhow, as the tube doesn't pass through the panel perpendicular.
 

frdboy

Contributor
Full Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2013
Messages
211
Here is mine, I want/need to add a bar behind the seats for harnesses but worried about back seat access.....



 

rcmbronc

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Dec 15, 2003
Messages
2,715
Loc.
Tomah WI
Here is the one I built last. I went through the dash. The hole saw would have worked better I just free lanced the cut.
 

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Crush

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
May 30, 2007
Messages
3,463
Loc.
Greenbottom, WV
Take a piece of scrap tubing and put it at the angle to your dash you want the front legs. Scribe or mark the tube with a line that is parrallel to dash face. Cut tubing on this line. Place tubing on dash exactly where you want the front legs to go through. Trace around the tubing with a marker or scribe. Remove the piece of tube. Now you have the exact shape hole you need to be cut out of the dash for the front leggs. This is going to be youre best solution cutting the OVAL shape needed for the bar to go through. The hole will not NOT be round. With a dremmel or rotary tool, Cut it out smaller than the mark you made and then Use a carbide rotary file or a rounded hand file to finess the hole out to the marks you made. Then test fit and remove a little more until you get the fit you want. I have even see. Where a piece of exhaust pipe a little larger in diameter than the cage tubing and about 2" long was welded to the back side of the dash so that there was a transition area and not just an edge with darkness around it from behind the dash. Kind of gave the dash face a thick look instead if sheet metal look. Hope this helps
 
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