Vibration issue on new motor tranny install

[croft75]

Sorry have needed a lot of help lately with electrical/ carb questions

New issue after getting timing and carb setup by a pro it's now drivable but has a vibration issue. It seems really bad around 2000 rpm this occurs both in neutral and on the road. The motor is a mustang 5.0 with nv3550 tranny 50 oz balancer and new Luk 50oz flywheel. Any thoughts on what to look at would be appreciated
Happy 4 th

 

[croft75]

must add the motor ran smooth when taken out,
replaced original flywheel with 50oz larger flywheel LUK, also added March performance pulley on front , has a new pilot bearing from TBP nv3550 install

 

[Fordman331]

I would start with the flywheel, if it is the same balancer as before, make sure one of them is 28 oz

 

[Viperwolf1]

I would start with the flywheel, if it is the same balancer as before, make sure one of them is 28 oz

???
'89 5.0 with 50 oz-in crankshaft + 50 oz-in balancer + 50 oz-in flywheel = balanced assembly

I'd look at firing order and possible misfire problems.

 

[croft75]

no its definitely a 50 oz to match the factory balancer, went new LUK and have double checked part numbers and also visually it had the larger cast area over the 28oz
will double check firing order but its a really strong vibration and idles very smooth.

 

[croft75]

my other thoughts are , what are the issues that occur if your input shaft needs to be trimmed on your NV3550? mine slid right in and bolted up fine , no gaps between any of the Advance adapters parts so I think it was ok
or what happens when a pilot bearing goes bad, I removed a brass original and replaced with the needle roller one from the kit? could it have been bad?

 

[Broncobowsher]

Take the belt/crank pulley off and spin it up. It is a rotating part added at the same time the vibration started. Easy to check as well.

Did you change the crank damper as well? If so (and if you still have the old one) put that on and try again.

Basicly undo as many of the changes that are easy to do to rule them out.

 

[Viperwolf1]

my other thoughts are , what are the issues that occur if your input shaft needs to be trimmed on your NV3550? mine slid right in and bolted up fine , no gaps between any of the Advance adapters parts so I think it was ok
or what happens when a pilot bearing goes bad, I removed a brass original and replaced with the needle roller one from the kit? could it have been bad?

Pilot bearing is not a likely cause. Too close to the center and too small mass to cause balance problem unless it came apart and the input shaft/clutch disk is wobbling off center.

Don't know about input shaft trimming on 3550 but it sounds like a length issue.

 

[croft75]

Take the belt/crank pulley off and spin it up. It is a rotating part added at the same time the vibration started. Easy to check as well.

Did you change the crank damper as well? If so (and if you still have the old one) put that on and try again.

Basicly undo as many of the changes that are easy to do to rule them out.

crank dampener came on motor, was original and worked well, really only major spinning item would be the flywheel
Really not looking forward to dismantling this again

 

[Nickm1024cobra]

Sorry have needed a lot of help lately with electrical/ carb questions

New issue after getting timing and carb setup by a pro it's now drivable but has a vibration issue. It seems really bad around 2000 rpm this occurs both in neutral and on the road. The motor is a mustang 5.0 with nv3550 tranny 50 oz balancer and new Luk 50oz flywheel. Any thoughts on what to look at would be appreciated
Happy 4 th

With vehicle sitting in park or neutral and you rev it up to 2,000 rpm it is shaking?
Just want to make sure rule out anything drivetrain related. Motor mounts tight? Did you try to run it briefly with the serpentine belt off?

 

[croft75]

With vehicle sitting in park or neutral and you rev it up to 2,000 rpm it is shaking?
Just want to make sure rule out anything drivetrain related. Motor mounts tight? Did you try to run it briefly with the serpentine belt off?

yep in neutral it vibrates at 2000, no driveline spinning. Since I have jbfab shifters I tried in front wheel drive but had same problem.

 

[Nickm1024cobra]

take the serpentine belt off and run it with no accessories. need to rule out accessories out of alignment. You won't have a water pump spinning, so just long enough to see if vibration still there.

 

[croft75]

take the serpentine belt off and run it with no accessories. need to rule out accessories out of alignment. You won't have a water pump spinning, so just long enough to see if vibration still there.

Doesn't have seep setup used original front dress because motor is carburated

 

[croft75]

im pretty sure I installed the flywheel correctly the bolt holes only lined up one way, I did have to get new bolts for the pressure plate because the originals didn't lineup but that was mentioned in other posts I read. I did have to coax the nv3550 over towards the pass side to line the holes up with the TBP crossmember I unbolted the motor at this point then tightened down after the tranny and transfer case were all bolted up at this point

 

[Nickm1024cobra]

Doesn't have seep setup used original front dress because motor is carburated

Same concept. Take the belt off and spin it.
Just my suggestion man before you start pulling apart a drivetrain. You said the carb and timing was set by a "pro". That PRO would have to spun the motor up past 2,000 to set full advance. He didn't mention a vibration? Was it bolted in the truck?

Something just doesn't sound right.

 

[croft75]

Same concept. Take the belt off and spin it.
Just my suggestion man before you start pulling apart a drivetrain. You said the carb and timing was set by a "pro". That PRO would have to spun the motor up past 2,000 to set full advance. He didn't mention a vibration? Was it bolted in the truck?

Something just doesn't sound right.

I'll try the belt first when we set carb and timing this morn we blipped it over 2000 a few times really wasn't noticeable until he left and I took on the street for test vibration was very noticeable I checked a few times to make sur it wasn't driveline related

 

[croft75]

So took belts off no difference, also when I installed the TBP crossmember I had to put of sideways pressure on tranny/motor to get the tranny mount holes ( about a 1/4") lined up , so I removed cross member elongated holes and reinstalled with no pressure but that didn't change anything,

So I removed the tranny last night UGH the LUK pressure plate is held on by 6 3/8"x1" bolts in the only holes that line up, the flywheel bolts were all there and torqued to spec,
The only comment I got from a mechanic was that he was surprised there were no alignment dowels on the flywheel? should there be? there wasn't any in the 28oz one.

My next step is going to be take the flywheel and have it checked. Any other ideas?
I'm pretty sure the 50 oz balancer can't be installed wrong, it was removed sio I could put a new seal/timing chain cover in

 

[nvrstuk]

Hopefully the machine shop will find the flywheel is balanced improperly so before you bolt it all together again you'll be confidant that it will be vibration free!

 

[68stang73]

I have had a motor stumble but feel like a vibration and it was all carb/ timing and valve train adj. I bet it's timing and carb still.

 

[DirtDonk]

No dowels needed on the flywheel for the crank bolts because of the offset holes you mentioned. It'll only go on one way, therefore no way to put it on wrong.

A dowel pin for aligning a clutch cover that was balanced with the flywheel is not a bad idea, but a simple Sharpie mark will do the same.

So he needn't worry over missing pins at this point.
But speaking of it anyway, was the clutch dynamically balanced at the shop with the flywheel and other components? Or was it just bolted on?
If just bolt-n-go, then pins or marks would mean nothing anyway.

Paul