I have the insulated bib overalls and glvoes but my feet stay warm w/o the kwh draw...Or get a pair of Carhart insulated coveralls and Goretex Thinsulate gloves and some electric socks.
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3 Arm Wiper Setup
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Fix Motor Mount
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Ford 6R80 6 spd
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What have you done to your Bronco today?
- Thread starter Heus33
- Start date
abrogate932
Newbie
I was able to replace the worn out body mount bushings on my 1971 with some new Energy Suspension bushings. What a difference! I found out that the rear two didn't even have bolts in them.... and the passenger front mount is torn off my inner fender and core support!
A bit of sage advise: The #3 mount that is beneath the front seats has a hole in the top of the frame that is the perfect size for the tube spacer to fall through. You will have to remove the rear bumper and use a shop vac to retrieve anything you drop inside the frame. I found this all out the hard way!
A bit of sage advise: The #3 mount that is beneath the front seats has a hole in the top of the frame that is the perfect size for the tube spacer to fall through. You will have to remove the rear bumper and use a shop vac to retrieve anything you drop inside the frame. I found this all out the hard way!
I was able to replace the worn out body mount bushings on my 1971 with some new Energy Suspension bushings. What a difference! I found out that the rear two didn't even have bolts in them.... and the passenger front mount is torn off my inner fender and core support!
A bit of sage advise: The #3 mount that is beneath the front seats has a hole in the top of the frame that is the perfect size for the tube spacer to fall through. You will have to remove the rear bumper and use a shop vac to retrieve anything you drop inside the frame. I found this all out the hard way!
^ yup! many place a piece of tape over that hole to prevent this.
abrogate932
Newbie
I ended up doing that on the drivers side. I'm just glad my shop vac hose diameter was small enough and long enough to reach it. I was pretty frustrated by the whole thing because I had just put the rear bumper on after installing my new exhaust.
DeezNCSU
Jr. Member
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2014
- Messages
- 226
Did you have any issues with the door gaps changing afterwards? I've considered replacing mine but fear it'll throw the gaps out of whack.
Got most of my Winters shifter mount
for my AOD done. Inspired by [mention]lars [/mention] and [mention]ntsqd [/mention] . Decided to get rid of my B&M ratchet shifter and go with this. I modified my tunnel 15 years ago when I got my Stak Tcase and built on that.
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for my AOD done. Inspired by [mention]lars [/mention] and [mention]ntsqd [/mention] . Decided to get rid of my B&M ratchet shifter and go with this. I modified my tunnel 15 years ago when I got my Stak Tcase and built on that.
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abrogate932
Newbie
Yea, but fortunately for me they improved. I had to adjust the striker on the passenger side even.
More work, laying out the Explorer engine harness. Around the fuel injectors, fuel rails and coolant lines etc.
Back in the day I had a 78 with the same paint scheme. I have only seen two others that color. That was a great Bronco!Not my bronco today but we removed the NP435 from my buddies 79 and will be putting in an AX15 this week. The solid axle ranger in the background also sits on bronco axles; we are finishing some updates to the cooling system on that truck.
I bought a 68 to restore/Restomod from JimGo... How often does one buy a EB and find a full set of keys that works in everything? It will be going back to it's original color of Rangoon Red, lots of scrubbing yet to be done and parts to collect. You know, the Standard routine... Floors are solid, mostly unmolested, just been sitting for years... This will be my 9th restore and a good chance the last, or... that is what I told myself after I finished my 79 too.
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finally finished swapping in my 1" body lift from WH. I replaced an old hockey puck lift. But, now i'm thinking i should unbolt the roll cage and let the body settle and re-align. Thoughts?
Last edited:
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2003
- Messages
- 49,162
Yes, and no. Initially, the thought of unbolting the cage makes a lot of sense. But I believe, depending upon the cage at least, as soon as you bolt it back up it’s going to pull the body up to the cage. Rather than pulling the cage down to the body.
What do you think, based on the design of your cage? Is it stronger than the body and misaligned enough to pull things askew?
I suppose unbolting it is still a good idea, so that you can see that once the body is aligned with the mounts and the door gaps, and all that other stuff, if the cage sits flat on the floor pan or not.
What do you think, based on the design of your cage? Is it stronger than the body and misaligned enough to pull things askew?
I suppose unbolting it is still a good idea, so that you can see that once the body is aligned with the mounts and the door gaps, and all that other stuff, if the cage sits flat on the floor pan or not.
that was my thought too. unbolt it to see how flat it sits without any tension and everything aligned on the frame. then address where the roll cage foot gaps are, if there are any? part of me also says "screw it. i'm good" lol
Depends on the cage design, some flex enough to match the body and frame, some are rigid enough that the body and frame are going to conform to it. Mine is the later.
mines the WH San felipe cage. it may flex a bit? my OCD just doesn't like the thought of unnecessary tension on the floor of the cage foots are pulling "up" on it.
It’s all about the door alignment than it pulling on the floor. Whatever it takes to get the doors aligned properly is what is important.
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