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4 link, ORI's, narrowed D60w/only 2.5" lift, 5"+WB stretch, 2" floor lower, P/S....,

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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Those seals look awesome, certainly can’t be worse. The biggest issues I’ve had aren’t about seal surface condition but sand cutting the surface. I think going to disc brakes aggravates the issue by exposing the seal to the elements vs being somewhat protected by the drum and backing plate.

Got a part number?
I was pretty excited when I heard about them. This one cost me a fortune but if I need another it will be less than half the price.
 

.94 OR

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Do these seals take any extra tools to install? I remember replacing hub seals on my Sterling 10.25 and they weren't fun since I didn't have the special installation tool.
 

Yeller

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Over priced supplier plus $20 shipping from Co to WA.

You guys get to buy it for $22 at your local parts store. :)
Know where you got it…. They buy at the local parts store, inventory it and ship it so not necessarily overpriced, just convenience and them making a living. Personally know the owner, good people, just not handing out his research completely free, understandable.
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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They were great on the phone and super helpful & shipped asap ! That's why no names were used as I didn't want anyone to think these guys(gals) weren't stand up!!
 

Yeller

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Especially since, as unbelievable as it may sound they are one of the only if not the only true supplier of bow tie parts for true offroad use, they have a bunch for restoration and street stuff but nothing like what we have in the Bronco world. We are so spoiled with our bronco vendors.
 

ssray

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Especially since, as unbelievable as it may sound they are one of the only if not the only true supplier of bow tie parts for true offroad use, they have a bunch for restoration and street stuff but nothing like what we have in the Bronco world. We are so spoiled with our bronco vendors.
Well I know of a company in CO that does mostly that and also makes a doubler that I have looked at. Hmmm….
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Happened to miss this post…Maybe they figured a good layer of rust would get the clearance close to tolerance. o_O
The way Ford Performance seems to come up with their own specs for doing things maybe this is some new tech??? lol
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Steve- you could be right about excessive seal wear when exposed to sand... :)

When I saw this pic today I thought it might be appropriate to post it.
Do this at least a dozen times every day on the sand.
Going to be a smart thing totally sealing up the 6r-especially around that frt pump seal area!
 

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Yeller

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^^^^^^^
I have never done this……

And been pulled out by a stock Suzuki samurai 🤣🤣😳😳🤣🤣 really needed a video of that Sammy going air born when it hit the end of the 40’ strap, but it pulled me out, more than once 😂
 

hossbronco

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I’m glad I dropped in. I was already concerned about the starter positioning plate leaving a small gap up top between the engine and the 6R80. Now I like it even less. I may have to do something to seal it up.
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Good idea!

Sand EVERYWHERE!!!

I mean everybody has sand in their rig after playing right?

I'm sure it's going several places where I don't want it to & hoping the seals and outer wrap on the air filter are doing their job!!
 
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nvrstuk

nvrstuk

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Got my first small production run of my 6r to sbf adapters a couple days ago. They are looking good. Have one tweak to do. The dowel pins are tight and the starter location alignment looks perfect.

I mocked them up with my 6r and sb and looks good.

Here's a different issue...

The Meziere flexplate I bought to solve the cracking/grenading issue has a different mounting location for where the converter mounts on the flexplate. The offset between the crank and the mounting pad holes is greater. It mounts the flexplate appr (typo) .125" CLOSER (more offset) towards the engine than the other two flexplates I've been using (because of the offset on the flexplate).

What this does is not leave any clearance for the converter to slide foward when bolted up. The converter makes contact with the Miziere flexplate before the block and bellhousing make contact. I swapped and put one of the other two flexplates I've used back in and it has almost .100" clearance when the trans and block are torqued together. What this major difference between offsets does is not only does it mess my install all up but if you want to recommend a product to someone then ALL the parts should fit- :(

Why does Ford have different offsets on converters to screw us up when swapping flexplate brands????
This happened on my 4r70 build a decade ago also. Same listed "fitment" for cars/engines/trannys and yet only one of the 3 converters I tried had the correct offset so the billet converter would fit the flexplate and not bind when the block & trans are bolted together - yet the books said all 3 would fit in this case. :(

Not sure what I'm doing now for a flexplate. Order in one of every brand, hope one fits and hope it's stout enough so it won't eventually crack/grenade like the others!

The straight edge pic is to show the distance between the face of the ring gear teeth and the surface that the converter mounts to. Easy 1/8" or more difference which moves the converter fwd or back so it fits or doesn't fit.

Meziere crank mounting face to converter mounting face is .780" (confirmed with Meziere today). 2 of my Perf Auto flexplates have appr. .650" mounting face to mting face. There's the space I need.
 

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hossbronco

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That looks like the same flexplate I bought for this conversion, part number FP312. I wanted a billet flexplate so I didn’t have the cracking issues you were having with the PA kit. I never fit it up to my Speed Gems kit and was able to return it when I changed engines. It looks like this may not have gone as smoothly as I expected.
 

hossbronco

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With your adapter and 460 issues, maybe it’s time to take the path of least resistance and install a Godzilla. They’re still comparatively cheap, but getting more expensive.
 
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