AOD Remote Only Trans Cooler setups

[ntsqd]

Thermal exchange is thermal exchange. Comes down to the efficiency of the heat exchanger and the heat rejection/absorption rates of the two fluids in use.

 

[ksagis]

Was mainly thinking how much heat my furnace is putting out and comparing that to sizing of the cooler.

Wondering if we’re missing something. Are you saying you got to 265 before the “spirited driving” with the 46k cooler? Remind me if the Derale is the only cooler in the flow path now. Also, is it possible the lines are too small or there is a flow restriction someplace that is limiting how effective the cooler can be?

Fingers crossed for the bigger cooler solving things.

 

[ntsqd]

If I recall correctly the stock cooler lines for an AOD are Ø5/16" Given the rarity of -5AN stuff it's pretty common to bump them up to -6AN (Ø3/8"). Unless kinked somewhere, which I highly doubt, any flow restriction is going to be something odd like a flap of liner in one of the hoses.

High stall torque converters are notorious for their high to very high fluid temps.

 

[ba123]

I got 265 on the exit line which is straight out of the torque converter and before I had this cooling setup so trans was pretty hot already.

After I rerouted everything and installed the remote Derale cooler, I installed the gauge in the pan like it should be.

And @ntsqd is correct, I have -6an fitting with 3/8” Nicop hard lines. You can find -5an stuff but yeah, much more limited. I did run my fuel return lines with it and 5/16 Nicop.

And no kinks in my lines either. It’s just that smaller (10”) and high stall non-lockup torque converter. And when you’re driving it like you’re on a drag strip, it’s constant slipping and super high heat.

I won’t be doing that often but certainly do not want to get home with that much heat or be stuck somewhere if I ever do go on a longer trip.

I know this is only my own situation and a regular AOD is fine with half the cooling I have now.

Even removed the spring in the pump stator for better cooling flow this last time the trans was out so flow should be more than enough.

 

[ba123]

The racing cooler came. It is really nice and looks really well made. It is thick! It’s prob gonna cool twice as much just for the fact that it’ll hold twice the amount of fluid.

 

[bigmuddy]

That's a biggun!

 

[toddz69]

The racing cooler came. It is really nice and looks really well made. It is thick! It’s prob gonna cool twice as much just for the fact that it’ll hold twice the amount of fluid.

View attachment 952240

You're into off road racing truck size coolers now! Where will you mount it?

Todd Z.

 

[ba123]

It's actually only the depth of the thing that is larger than my current one, But the thing is so much beefier.

Here is my current cooler:

Here is the new one:

So, it will fit just fine in the same spot. I don't want any new holes in my floor for mounting so thought about making a bracket for it but decided I'd be better off using slotted angle steel running horizontally in the current mount holes and then an offsetting piece on each side of the cooler mounting holes. That should allow me to offset the holes to match and might also help airflow to be able to come from the side a tiny bit (not that I think I'll need it, but why not).

I've also decided to not make my bends to prettily go around the side and be more direct for better flow.

Will be more like this:

I also am currently all hard lines and my 3D printed line clamps keep breaking from the vibration and I’ll install a few inches of flexible hose between in a break between the hose sections to absorb that. I have a connection a couple feet off the trans already for this that will make it easy. If my exhaust were out I might do it at the trans but I can get in there with the exhaust in.

 

[73azbronco]

If in it was me, I would use the hard lines on the straight part by the ebrake setup, then use soft flexable from either side to cooler and tranny. When a hydraulic system has long hard runs, with more than one 90 degree turn, you build up some awful vibration and wear on clamps.

 

[ntsqd]

If it is hard line clear to the trans (can't see that end in the pic) then I'd definitely put some hose in the system where it transitions to the body or frame.
73azb has a good point, when you see long hard line hyd runs on construction equipment there is almost always rubber at both ends. I've detailed in the recent past how I prefer to securely do that tubing to hose transition.

 

[ba123]

Yes, that’s what I said I was doing.

 

[ntsqd]

I wasn't clear about what you had planned.

 

[ba123]

Yeah, it's sometimes difficult to go from my brain to words on a forum, haha!

I'll try and post a good pic when done. It should be good.

I also noticed the capacity of the cooler difference is CRAZY.

The current one has a 16oz capacity and the new on is 47oz, so will hold almost 1 qt more.

 

[ntsqd]

Then getting it from the typed word into my brain is probably a bigger hurdle.

Can't recall ever wishing for less fluid capacity except when having to pay for it.

 

[toddz69]

Yeah, it's sometimes difficult to go from my brain to words on a forum, haha!

I'll try and post a good pic when done. It should be good.

I also noticed the capacity of the cooler difference is CRAZY.

The current one has a 16oz capacity and the new on is 47oz, so will hold almost 1 qt more.

Looking forward to seeing pictures when you have it installed.

Todd Z.

 

[ba123]

Ok, so I had some time today and I am done but it did not go as quickly as planned. I wasted a ton of time this past week deciding how I wanted it mounted as I did not want to make any new holes and the footprint of the holes is VERY different.

But after some brainwork, I got it to work while also increasing the airflow around the unit (with the previous I used square tubing so the sides were blocked. Not sure if that will matter but I figure I might as well get the max possible out of this insane cooler.

once done with that, the new lines were pretty easy. Measure, measure, measure some more, cut, flare, bend, measure, cut flare bend...

I also decided not to use my 3D printed line brackets as I'm okay with them being more rigid this time around with the felxible hose I added.

Here are the lines from the trans with the flex hose added and yes, these are transmission fluid lines (I know you guys who think of everything will ask).

Here is the next section:

And the final section with the cooler:

I also had to add a 10A diode in my power supply to the fan as I noticed I've been getting back feed from the fan when it's running when I shut the engine off. VERY frustrating and took some good thought to figure out what was causing it.

Couldn't go for a drive but I did run a warmup cycle to make sure no leaks and will have to add another quart before I go for a drive but a little rainy today.

 

[ntsqd]

If those are Barb-tite/Push-Lock type hose ends then they don't need or want the hose clamp. Adding clamp actually compromises the hose and shortens it's life.
If they are normal barb'd type hose ends then disregard.

Push-Lock/Barb-tite hose ends only have two large barbs that are difficult to get the hose over. Normal barbed hose ends will have 3 or more barbs and the hose goes on much easier.

 

[ba123]

If those are Barb-tite/Push-Lock type hose ends then they don't need or want the hose clamp. Adding clamp actually compromises the hose and shortens it's life.
If they are normal barb'd type hose ends then disregard.

Push-Lock/Barb-tite hose ends only have two large barbs that are difficult to get the hose over. Normal barbed hose ends will have 3 or more barbs and the hose goes on much easier.

Yeah, I was wondering about that...I did put them gently. They are super sharp and they do seem to me more push lock style than regular barbs. First hose was slightly too long and I had to cut the thing--could not pull that thing off. I'm nervous about no barbs though...what about just snug?

Or maybe a zip tie would satisfy my stress about the situation as dumb as it is since I couldn’t pull them off even when I wanted to.

 

[ntsqd]

That you couldn't pull it off is a good sign. What happens with a clamp is that it forces the hose down on those barbs, which then cut the liner of the hose and now it will leak. Maybe not right away, but not too far in the future. Without a clamp the hose end to hose connection is good to the bursting strength of the hose. A loose hose clamp will be be tightened by someone who doesn't know any better.

It's just that going Nekkid (without clamps) is pretty squirmy, right?

What I do with hoses that are a significant risk, like fuel in a dyno room, is to use one of the narrow Thomas & Betts tye-wraps and very carefully place it between the two barbs of the hose end. Pull it up to just barely snug and then trim the end flush (not that you wouldn't anyway, but now someone else can't tighten it further).
What you're doing here is pulling the hose down over the barb just enough to ensure that it can't slip off the barb, without risking cutting the liner.
If you have a Clamp-Tite tool (& why not if you don't?) you can do a similar thing with one of those fabricated from Safety wire clamps. I've done it both ways. In either case as soon as you see that the hose has been slightly pulled down between the barbs is where you stop.
I am firmly convinced that doing this is a completely unnecessary, but on some assemblies I do it anyway for my own peace of mind.

 

[nvrstuk]

so at a normal start today, very light gas it shifted 1-2 at about 20 and 3500 and then 2-3 at about 33 mph maybe also around 33-3500.

Tough to be exact.

I had to do some catching up... those are interesting shift points. I have my 6r shift on level ground under light load from 1st to 2nd at about 1500 rpm and 8mph, then 2nd to 3rd at about 1500 rpm and 15mph... I know we're talking apples and oranges but those #'s are so far apart.

I took another look at what seems to me is the relatively small surface area of both your coolers compared to what I run for 2 decades (and have several buddies use also) for my different 4r setups and now my 6r tranny setup. The PSD sized coolers I run are much larger. I have no cooling issues hammering up sand dunes over and over and over. The load on a trans doing this is very high, with 5 psi with the rolling (non-existant) drag on soft sand and very steep. I do not lock up my converter unless I'm running over 60mph due to my camshaft, so other than TC dia I'm creating some major heat also. I have no idea what the BTU cooling capacity is of that cooler. Todd Z, or anybody have an idea?
Just saying this could be the reason for not cooling possibly?

Surface area, air flow and cool air actually doing the cooling helps a ton.

I hope that size cooler does what you need. Your setup for lines and layout is like all your stuff, is very clean!